Air Brakes

Shel_B

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Why do some trucks use air brakes instead of hydraulic brakes? I can see trucks that pull trailers needing them as the lines to the trailers need to be disconnected and connected, and air brakes will allow that. Now, that's just my guess ...

But what about other trucks? Is there some size limit beyond which air brakes are preferred or required? Why don't our pickup trucks use air brakes?

Anything you'd care to share about the use of air brakes would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Mostly the need for a larger volume of fluid to apply the larger brakes versus your leg is the limit. Several companies tried various ways to make hydraulic brakes work on bigger vehicles but they usually were overly complicated or unreliable. 4 wheel hydraulic disc brakes with hydraulic boosters showed up on larger trucks before they were common on pickups and cars but still has a limit.

Before electric brakes were common on smaller trailers pulled behind smaller truck there were vacuum systems that ran a hydraulic system on the trailer.
 
Hydraulic brake fluid would boil and you would have no brakes. Also air brakes are more reliable and easy to adjust. I prefer air brakes now after 30 plus years of using them. It's easy to connect and if a problem you can disable the bad chamber.
 
You would need an airbrake endorsement (pretty much a CDL) to operate something with air brakes and having to do the convoluted air brake pretrip test everyday or whenever you feel like it.
 
You would need an airbrake endorsement (pretty much a CDL) to operate something with air brakes and having to do the convoluted air brake pretrip test everyday or whenever you feel like it.
What does that test involve?
 
What does that test involve?

I used to teach/babysit a CDL class. This is the airbrake test procedure that is performed during the CDL licensing exam/roadtest. Actions performed must be made verbal to the examiner hence the quotes.

CDL Brake Test:



Chock Wheels

Enter vehicle w/ 3 points of contact

Put on seatbelt

Safe start:

“I am going to perform a safe start. Press clutch, in neutral. Start engine, slowly release clutch.”

“Brake and ABS light went on and off. Oil pressure is rising”

Release Tractor and Trailer Brakes:

“I will release the trailer and tractor brakes by pushing in the tractor protection valve and the parking brake valve.”

Build Pressure/Purge:

“I am going to build pressure by stepping on the gas pedal and holding at 1000rpm. The governor cuts in at 100psi and cuts off at 120psi where it’s fully charged with a purge. (Purge) There is the purge. Primary at 119psi and secondary at 118psi indicating system is fully charged.”

Turn off engine:

“I will turn off the engine and turn key to ACC mode.

Air Leak test:

“I will perform the Air Leak test. I will begin the minute, listen for leaks and watch my gauge for any loss. I should not lose 4psi within the minute. Primary is at 119psi and secondary is at 118psi.” (Start minute)

(Minute ends) “Primary at 118psi and secondary at 117psi indicating 2psi loss which means it’s working properly and in operating range.

Applied Pressure Test:

“I will perform the Applied Pressure Test. I will fully apply the foot brake for 1 minute. After the initial loss I shouldn’t lose more than 4psi”

(Apply and hold foot brake) “After initial loss, the primary is at 110psi and secondary is at 112psi. I will begin the minute now.” (Start timer)

“The minute is up and the primary is 109psi and secondary is 110psi indicating system lost 3psi, is working properly and in operational range. That completes the Applied Pressure Test.” (Take foot off brake)

Low air warning light and buzzer test:

“Next test will be the Low Air Warning Light and Buzzer test. I will fan off air pressure by rapidly applying and releasing the foot brake. The low air warning light and buzzer should come on between 40-60psi. I will begin fanning now. Primary is at 109psi, secondary is at 110psi.” (Fan service brake)

“There is the Low Air Warning Light and Buzzer. The primary is at 56psi and secondary is at 55psi indicating they are working properly and in operational range. That completes the Low Air Warning and Buzzer Test.”

Turn off vehicle:

“At this time, I will turn the truck completely off.”

Tractor/Trailer Emergency Automatic Spring Brake Test:

“Next test will be the Tractor Trailer Spring Brake test. For this test I will continue fanning off brake pressure. Between 20-40 psi the tractor protection valve and parking brake valve should pop out. I will continue fanning. Primary is at 56psi, secondary is at 55psi” (Continue fanning brakes)

“The tractor protection and parking brake valve both popped out. The primary is at 39psi, secondary is at 38psi indicating that they are working properly and in operational range. That completes the tractor and trailer emergency automatic spring brake test.”

Grab Chocks:

“I will now exit the vehicle to grab the chocks.” (grab key, 3pt exit, grab chocks, 3pt entry.)

Put on belt and perform Safe Start: “I am going to perform a safe start.”

Build Pressure/Purge or Perform In-cab Pre-trip:

“Now I am going to help the air system build pressure by stepping on the gas pedal. The governor cuts in at 100psi and cuts off at 115psi which the system is fully charged with a purge. (Purge) There is the purge. The air supply pressure gauge primary and secondary needles are reading at 115psi indicating system is fully charged.”

Tug Test:

“Next test will be the tractor and trailer tug test. For this test I will push in the parking brake valve, put the gearshift in first gear and slowly releasing the clutch until I feel a tug.” (Pull Forward)

“There’s the tug indicating the trailer brake are working properly and in operational range. I will place the gearshift back in neutral.”

“Next I will pull out my parking brake and push in the tractor protection valve, putting the gearshift in first gear and slowly releasing the clutch until I feel a tug.”

“There’s the tug indicating the tractor brakes are working properly and is in operational range. I will place the gearshift in neutral. That completes the tug test.”

Service Brake Test:

“The final test is the Service Brake Test. I will release the tractor and trailer brakes, place the gearshift in first gear, accelerate to 5mph, and apply the brakes firmly. There shouldn’t be any delayed stopping, dipping to one side or unusual feel.”

(Accelerate up to 5mph, firmly apply brakes.)

“The vehicle didn’t pull to the side, no unusual feel or delayed stopping action indicating it works properly and in operational range. If it did, it could be low air pressure, suspension issue, or brake issues such as slack adjuster out of adjustment, worn brake pads or loose brake drums. That completes the Service Brake Test.”
 
Last edited:
I used to teach/babysit a CDL class. This is the airbrake test procedure that is performed during the CDL licensing exam/roadtest. Actions performed must be made verbal to the examiner hence the quotes.

CDL Brake Test:



Chock Wheels

Enter vehicle w/ 3 points of contact

Put on seatbelt

Safe start:

“I am going to perform a safe start. Press clutch, in neutral. Start engine, slowly release clutch.”

“Brake and ABS light went on and off. Oil pressure is rising”

Release Tractor and Trailer Brakes:

“I will release the trailer and tractor brakes by pushing in the tractor protection valve and the parking brake valve.”

Build Pressure/Purge:

“I am going to build pressure by stepping on the gas pedal and holding at 1000rpm. The governor cuts in at 100psi and cuts off at 120psi where it’s fully charged with a purge. (Purge) There is the purge. Primary at 119psi and secondary at 118psi indicating system is fully charged.”

Turn off engine:

“I will turn off the engine and turn key to ACC mode.

Air Leak test:

“I will perform the Air Leak test. I will begin the minute, listen for leaks and watch my gauge for any loss. I should not lose 4psi within the minute. Primary is at 119psi and secondary is at 118psi.” (Start minute)

(Minute ends) “Primary at 118psi and secondary at 117psi indicating 2psi loss which means it’s working properly and in operating range.

Applied Pressure Test:

“I will perform the Applied Pressure Test. I will fully apply the foot brake for 1 minute. After the initial loss I shouldn’t lose more than 4psi”

(Apply and hold foot brake) “After initial loss, the primary is at 110psi and secondary is at 112psi. I will begin the minute now.” (Start timer)

“The minute is up and the primary is 109psi and secondary is 110psi indicating system lost 3psi, is working properly and in operational range. That completes the Applied Pressure Test.” (Take foot off brake)

Low air warning light and buzzer test:

“Next test will be the Low Air Warning Light and Buzzer test. I will fan off air pressure by rapidly applying and releasing the foot brake. The low air warning light and buzzer should come on between 40-60psi. I will begin fanning now. Primary is at 109psi, secondary is at 110psi.” (Fan service brake)

“There is the Low Air Warning Light and Buzzer. The primary is at 56psi and secondary is at 55psi indicating they are working properly and in operational range. That completes the Low Air Warning and Buzzer Test.”

Turn off vehicle:

“At this time, I will turn the truck completely off.”

Tractor/Trailer Emergency Automatic Spring Brake Test:

“Next test will be the Tractor Trailer Spring Brake test. For this test I will continue fanning off brake pressure. Between 20-40 psi the tractor protection valve and parking brake valve should pop out. I will continue fanning. Primary is at 56psi, secondary is at 55psi” (Continue fanning brakes)

“The tractor protection and parking brake valve both popped out. The primary is at 39psi, secondary is at 38psi indicating that they are working properly and in operational range. That completes the tractor and trailer emergency automatic spring brake test.”

Grab Chocks:

“I will now exit the vehicle to grab the chocks.” (grab key, 3pt exit, grab chocks, 3pt entry.)

Put on belt and perform Safe Start: “I am going to perform a safe start.”

Build Pressure/Purge or Perform In-cab Pre-trip:

“Now I am going to help the air system build pressure by stepping on the gas pedal. The governor cuts in at 100psi and cuts off at 115psi which the system is fully charged with a purge. (Purge) There is the purge. The air supply pressure gauge primary and secondary needles are reading at 115psi indicating system is fully charged.”

Tug Test:

“Next test will be the tractor and trailer tug test. For this test I will push in the parking brake valve, put the gearshift in first gear and slowly releasing the clutch until I feel a tug.” (Pull Forward)

“There’s the tug indicating the trailer brake are working properly and in operational range. I will place the gearshift back in neutral.”

“Next I will pull out my parking brake and push in the tractor protection valve, putting the gearshift in first gear and slowly releasing the clutch until I feel a tug.”

“There’s the tug indicating the tractor brakes are working properly and is in operational range. I will place the gearshift in neutral. That completes the tug test.”

Service Brake Test:

“The final test is the Service Brake Test. I will release the tractor and trailer brakes, place the gearshift in first gear, accelerate to 5mph, and apply the brakes firmly. There shouldn’t be any delayed stopping, dipping to one side or unusual feel.”

(Accelerate up to 5mph, firmly apply brakes.)

“The vehicle didn’t pull to the side, no unusual feel or delayed stopping action indicating it works properly and in operational range. If it did, it could be low air pressure, suspension issue, or brake issues such as slack adjuster out of adjustment, worn brake pads or loose brake drums. That completes the Service Brake Test.”


I have a CDL being a semi mechanic. I'm far from being a truck driver.

However, some of the drivers I've seen makes me think some states like Mississippi and Arkansas gloss over the DOT bi-annual physical and don't care if you weigh 350 pounds and run out of breath getting in & out of the cab.
 
In my opinion, I wish my pickup did use air brakes. I prefer them on ANY kind of medium duty or heavy duty truck that is actually used for work. Incredibly simple and robust. Easy to change shoes with basic tools(once you have the wheels and drum out of the way).
 
I used to teach/babysit a CDL class. This is the airbrake test procedure that is performed during the CDL licensing exam/roadtest. Actions performed must be made verbal to the examiner hence the quotes.

CDL Brake Test:



Chock Wheels

Enter vehicle w/ 3 points of contact

Put on seatbelt

Safe start:

“I am going to perform a safe start. Press clutch, in neutral. Start engine, slowly release clutch.”

“Brake and ABS light went on and off. Oil pressure is rising”

Release Tractor and Trailer Brakes:

“I will release the trailer and tractor brakes by pushing in the tractor protection valve and the parking brake valve.”

Build Pressure/Purge:

“I am going to build pressure by stepping on the gas pedal and holding at 1000rpm. The governor cuts in at 100psi and cuts off at 120psi where it’s fully charged with a purge. (Purge) There is the purge. Primary at 119psi and secondary at 118psi indicating system is fully charged.”

Turn off engine:

“I will turn off the engine and turn key to ACC mode.

Air Leak test:

“I will perform the Air Leak test. I will begin the minute, listen for leaks and watch my gauge for any loss. I should not lose 4psi within the minute. Primary is at 119psi and secondary is at 118psi.” (Start minute)

(Minute ends) “Primary at 118psi and secondary at 117psi indicating 2psi loss which means it’s working properly and in operating range.

Applied Pressure Test:

“I will perform the Applied Pressure Test. I will fully apply the foot brake for 1 minute. After the initial loss I shouldn’t lose more than 4psi”

(Apply and hold foot brake) “After initial loss, the primary is at 110psi and secondary is at 112psi. I will begin the minute now.” (Start timer)

“The minute is up and the primary is 109psi and secondary is 110psi indicating system lost 3psi, is working properly and in operational range. That completes the Applied Pressure Test.” (Take foot off brake)

Low air warning light and buzzer test:

“Next test will be the Low Air Warning Light and Buzzer test. I will fan off air pressure by rapidly applying and releasing the foot brake. The low air warning light and buzzer should come on between 40-60psi. I will begin fanning now. Primary is at 109psi, secondary is at 110psi.” (Fan service brake)

“There is the Low Air Warning Light and Buzzer. The primary is at 56psi and secondary is at 55psi indicating they are working properly and in operational range. That completes the Low Air Warning and Buzzer Test.”

Turn off vehicle:

“At this time, I will turn the truck completely off.”

Tractor/Trailer Emergency Automatic Spring Brake Test:

“Next test will be the Tractor Trailer Spring Brake test. For this test I will continue fanning off brake pressure. Between 20-40 psi the tractor protection valve and parking brake valve should pop out. I will continue fanning. Primary is at 56psi, secondary is at 55psi” (Continue fanning brakes)

“The tractor protection and parking brake valve both popped out. The primary is at 39psi, secondary is at 38psi indicating that they are working properly and in operational range. That completes the tractor and trailer emergency automatic spring brake test.”

Grab Chocks:

“I will now exit the vehicle to grab the chocks.” (grab key, 3pt exit, grab chocks, 3pt entry.)

Put on belt and perform Safe Start: “I am going to perform a safe start.”

Build Pressure/Purge or Perform In-cab Pre-trip:

“Now I am going to help the air system build pressure by stepping on the gas pedal. The governor cuts in at 100psi and cuts off at 115psi which the system is fully charged with a purge. (Purge) There is the purge. The air supply pressure gauge primary and secondary needles are reading at 115psi indicating system is fully charged.”

Tug Test:

“Next test will be the tractor and trailer tug test. For this test I will push in the parking brake valve, put the gearshift in first gear and slowly releasing the clutch until I feel a tug.” (Pull Forward)

“There’s the tug indicating the trailer brake are working properly and in operational range. I will place the gearshift back in neutral.”

“Next I will pull out my parking brake and push in the tractor protection valve, putting the gearshift in first gear and slowly releasing the clutch until I feel a tug.”

“There’s the tug indicating the tractor brakes are working properly and is in operational range. I will place the gearshift in neutral. That completes the tug test.”

Service Brake Test:

“The final test is the Service Brake Test. I will release the tractor and trailer brakes, place the gearshift in first gear, accelerate to 5mph, and apply the brakes firmly. There shouldn’t be any delayed stopping, dipping to one side or unusual feel.”

(Accelerate up to 5mph, firmly apply brakes.)

“The vehicle didn’t pull to the side, no unusual feel or delayed stopping action indicating it works properly and in operational range. If it did, it could be low air pressure, suspension issue, or brake issues such as slack adjuster out of adjustment, worn brake pads or loose brake drums. That completes the Service Brake Test.”
I just spent $1100 on CDL training, I'm told I need to drag the pre trip/in cab inspections (everything you just listed) up to 45 minutes :(
And this is for a CDL Class B (+ air brake endorsement), I can't imagine the nightmare that's a Class A + Hazmat + Manual)
Starts this Saturday, can't wait 😳
It's a 23' straight box w/air brake, luckily they're all Automatic
And yes, they all have ABS, federally required from 1998
I had to know that to pass the permit test
...only took two tries 😭
 
I just spent $1100 on CDL training, I'm told I need to drag the pre trip/in cab inspections (everything you just listed) up to 45 minutes :(
And this is for a CDL Class B (+ air brake endorsement), I can't imagine the nightmare that's a Class A + Hazmat + Manual)
Starts this Saturday, can't wait 😳
It's a 23' straight box w/air brake, luckily they're all Automatic
And yes, they all have ABS, federally required from 1998
I had to know that to pass the permit test
...only took two tries 😭
You really should get the manual endorsement
 
You really should get the manual endorsement
I wanted to get everything, being the perpetual overachieving try hard I am
Then wise senior people with CDL's told me to slow down, and keep it simple for now
Then I was reminded that the truck I'll be asked to drive is a 2019 International, automatic, hydraulic brake, only for 3 days a week, and only for up to 1 year
Then I move onto a bigger and better (paying) role
For some reason in their operation, truck driver is the entry level role 🤷‍♂️
For once in my life, I'm not gonna put up a fight, and I'll do as I'm told
Probably later on I'll go back and add the manual/hazmat endorsements
New York State is a little weird with them
 
I just spent $1100 on CDL training, I'm told I need to drag the pre trip/in cab inspections (everything you just listed) up to 45 minutes :(
And this is for a CDL Class B (+ air brake endorsement), I can't imagine the nightmare that's a Class A + Hazmat + Manual)
Starts this Saturday, can't wait 😳
It's a 23' straight box w/air brake, luckily they're all Automatic
And yes, they all have ABS, federally required from 1998
I had to know that to pass the permit test
...only took two tries 😭
Will you go over any bridges or underpasses? Watch your max height and weight ratings. The instructor may ask you 1/4 mile down the road what the weight rating of the bridge was you just went over or what the max height of that last underpass was.
 
Why do some trucks use air brakes instead of hydraulic brakes? I can see trucks that pull trailers needing them as the lines to the trailers need to be disconnected and connected, and air brakes will allow that. Now, that's just my guess ...

But what about other trucks? Is there some size limit beyond which air brakes are preferred or required? Why don't our pickup trucks use air brakes?

Anything you'd care to share about the use of air brakes would be appreciated. Thanks!

Safety. With no air the brakes are applied. you can't take the parking brake off either
 
You really should get the manual endorsement

Is the manual endorsement separate of the class A or B? A friend told me none of the new drivers at his work know how to drive manuals so they always end up giving him the old manual trucks since all the new ones are autos.
 
Is the manual endorsement separate of the class A or B? A friend told me none of the new drivers at his work know how to drive manuals so they always end up giving him the old manual trucks since all the new ones are autos.
I don't know how they do it. I've had my cdl so long I'm sure a lot has changed. I do know I that if you wanted to work at a place like where I work you must be able to drive a manual as all but 1 or 2 are manual.

Most of my driving now is just to a tire store or repair shop.

I am old enough to have driving stuff like this. This is me in the video.

 
Is the manual endorsement separate of the class A or B? A friend told me none of the new drivers at his work know how to drive manuals so they always end up giving him the old manual trucks since all the new ones are autos.
In NY, it's an endorsement
What you road test on is what your licensed for
 
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