After switch to synthetic my motor is leaking like crazy

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Whimsey, your memory isn't any worse than mine.
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I don't think 5w30 was speced for this engine accept in artic conditions. But at the time I tried it in my VW, it was winter time, the vehicle was used for mostly short trips, and like the many comments today on how "advanced technology" 5w20s are all you need, many people believed the then "advanced technology" 5w30s were all you needed too. As I mentioned, even given winter conditions, with short trips, the engine didn't like it and I quickly changed to 10w40 dino, which was better, but didn't last anywhere as long as M1 10w30 before it sheared out too.
 
quote:

Originally posted by haley10:

quote:

Originally posted by kickster:
before I ran dino 10W40 without any leak.
I dont think it is the thickness of oil that is causing the leak. winter time I had 10W30 and it didnt leak.


Just curious as to why you thought that an engine of this vintage with 250,000KM on it with dino would be able to run a syn with no problems?? You must have known about the seal issues.


You gonna leave the neophyte hanging like that, or are you gonna explain the "seal issue" to him?
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quote:

Originally posted by 427Z06:

quote:

Originally posted by haley10:

quote:

Originally posted by kickster:
before I ran dino 10W40 without any leak.
I dont think it is the thickness of oil that is causing the leak. winter time I had 10W30 and it didnt leak.


Just curious as to why you thought that an engine of this vintage with 250,000KM on it with dino would be able to run a syn with no problems?? You must have known about the seal issues.


You gonna leave the neophyte hanging like that, or are you gonna explain the "seal issue" to him?
grin.gif


I don't think he's going to need an explanation at this point. All I know is that unless he bought it direct, some Amsoil salesman needs his arse kicked.
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kickster wrote:
quote:

before I ran dino 10W40 without any leak.
I dont think it is the thickness of oil that is causing the leak. winter time I had 10W30 and it didnt leak.

I assume you were using dino 10W-40, not synthetic 10W-40? Dino 10W-40 is suggested only between -15 and +20 degr C in that engine. Dino 5W-30 is okay for lower than -10 degr C, but not above.


1.8 12v oil chart:

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[ July 03, 2004, 03:39 PM: Message edited by: moribundman ]
 
I stand by my earlier post to give 20W-50 a go. Castrol GTX or similar.

I seriously doubt the Amsoil did that much in a few weeks. I think it is friction modified and a very moderate 40wt., so it will get past a bad seal quick.

I wouldn't do anything drastic other than putting a heavy weight dino back in for now.
 
a little leak wont stop me from using AMSOIL.
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I am going to solve this leak issue. I just got back from a 400KM trip. for some strange reason after 1000KM of usage the dip stick doesnt show any oil loss!!!
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I am going to jack up the car and power wash the engine from bottom up. I never paid any attention to my power steering fluid. Maybe it is not even engine oil that is leaking.
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quote:

Originally posted by kickster:
I have a 1990 golf 1.8 8v. It has 250K KM on it.
3 weeks ago I switched to AMSOIL 5W50 and ever since it is leaking oil from the back of the engine.
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May be just the age of the seal materials.
A lot of seals start leaking between 100-150 K miles. Amzoil may have cleaned wihout c0nditioning the seals, none the less with that many miles is is normal on most cars to start leaking. I'm no mechanic but I have traveled over 4 MILLION miles and do have REAL life experience.

Some of the adds do work and most do not.

If I were you I'd dump a good oil like pennZoil through there til you have the money to replace the seal and then give amzoil another shot.
JMHO

There is always a oil spot under my car ( cap full worth) it only leak while it is running. I have already replaced the valve cover gasket.
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Then to me even more reason to suspect timing....

Yes the oil added may have speeeeeeeeeeed it up a little but usually the cover will leak before the pan but not the rear... IM-experience the rear will leak up to twice the gasket, but it's not set into stone. BUt:
Bottom line don't worry about it... fix the leak properly and when you do try it again and there should be no problems.

-----------snip---------
Is it worth adding an over the counter leak stop additives? ------sometimes depends on the additive-------

I cant use ARX since the oil is only 3 weeks old. I am not about to waste $50 worth of finr synthetic oil and Mann filter.


If I were you I would care more for the motor than the oil.... if you own a car you have to WASTE money sometimes, but if you wanna get the most out of the car then either drain and fix or keep adding an oil like pennzoil until you have the money for proper repairs.

BITE the bullet and fix the car.
 
quote:

Originally posted by kickster:
Sorry my mistake. It is 5W40 not 5W50.

Ok, I'll buy that, probably what is the new Euro car formula.

Well, you will lose it anyway, so you could try to drain it and save it for another application.

I'd probably do that and replace with some Castrol GTX 20W-50 dino and see what happens for now.

I'm not sure this engine would not do similar with any light to mid-range 40 wt. What did you use before?
 
before I ran dino 10W40 without any leak.
I dont think it is the thickness of oil that is causing the leak. winter time I had 10W30 and it didnt leak.
 
quote:

Originally posted by kickster:
before I ran dino 10W40 without any leak.
I dont think it is the thickness of oil that is causing the leak. winter time I had 10W30 and it didnt leak.


Just curious as to why you thought that an engine of this vintage with 250,000KM on it with dino would be able to run a syn with no problems?? You must have known about the seal issues.
 
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