Advice towards Overkill

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I suspect you could likely tell more about an engines condition doing a trended analysis, using the SAME type and brand of oil, vs. seeing different oil each time. Am I correct?
Absolutely. Glad you brought that up. Reminds me that I need to get something off my chest about that area of thought. I will tell a customer about a problem I see, tell them to research it, i.e. change or check or correct. Sometimes the owner checks, lets say the air filter and it "looks" ok to them but the Si is screaming high and bearing or cylinder wear is outta site and they ignore it for another interval. Hoping a different "brand" of oil, oil additive, or oil filter ( include bypass types) will correct the issue. I try to be diplomatic but if we ID an issue it must be fixed or the new oil or interval will still stink. Fix mechanical issues first before moving to trick chemistry or filtration techniques. This is basic automotive repair theory but to read some of the comments on here, by many I have nothing to do with, you would think INCORRECTLY, that I suggest cooking a brew before repairing the basics. WRONG. I was a wrench turner long before I was a lubricant analyst. Many of the "tricks" that are shared here by chemists and tribologists are techniques used to keep a race car on the track, keep a generator up in a nuke plant, or make a pump keep running for another 30 days. Not a replacement for good automotive maintenance practices! Fix it, then trick it ! You can quote me on that. TD
 
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Thanks Terry. Can you shed any light on this mid-west company that will be making oil? Will it be a small blender aimed at a particular market? [Cheers!] Is Molekule the chemist? If so, I'll place my order now. [Big Grin]
 
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I’d only bother doing oil ANALysis for critical and/or expensive equipment. Anything thing else is wasted money or for intellectual entertainment.
 
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I’d only bother doing oil ANALysis for critical and/or expensive equipment. Anything thing else is wasted money or for intellectual entertainment.
Suit yourself. Since when is a car NOT a critical or expensive piece of equipment? Try living without one ..or buying a new one. I've used Terry's service and it's paid for itself in a very few miles. He identified a problem that had gone totally unnoticed by me. I was so focused on extended drains and the lubrication issue ...that I ignored some things that I shouldn't have. The thing was ..I had no apparent symptoms of the problem. I was tooling along in ignorant bliss. Knowledge is power and an education is priceless [Smile]
 
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I’d only bother doing oil ANALysis for critical and/or expensive equipment.
I's say my truck fits that description, especially when i'm driving thru West Texas at 2:00am and theres not another car, town, of phone around for 50 miles. Cell phone is dead [Wink] Terry, can you tell us what kind of oil and additives you run in your on personal vechicles, just for grins and giggles.
 
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Terry, can you tell us what kind of oil and additives you run in your on personal vechicles, just for grins and giggles.
I run rerefined 20w20 Non detergent with LC/FP continuously while annually adding a bottle of Auto-RX at the last 1500 miles of a oil change. I change oil every 30,000 miles whether they need it or not. [Eek!] [Eek!] [Eek!] [Eek!] [Eek!] [Eek!] [Eek!] That ain't ANAL its a spoof.
 
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Originally posted by Gary Allan: Suit yourself. Since when is a car NOT a critical or expensive piece of equipment? Try living without one ..or buying a new one.
You haven't seen some of the cars I own. [Big Grin] Some I test, some I don't.
 
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HighPlains, no disrespect meant by the spoof. I am constantly testing and experimenting and confirming. Currently In engines= LC/FP, Auto-RX,M1,GC,Synergyn,Rotella T 5w-40 ( fake syn), pennzoil 30w, Schaeffers 7000 blends ( I love this company and oils !), castrol 15w-40 HDD modified for a well worn BMW 1.8L 4. Homemade brews that can't be mentioned, except that we could dry the source and smoke it , HE HE.. [Razz] I do use 20w20ND oils with/LC and or Auto-RX for cleansing pre test. ATF= Schaeffers, Amsoil,Honda ATF with Auto-RX, Synergyn. Some small doses of LC depending on analysis results. GL and MTL = Special formulations from a unknown company in the midwest,amsoil,redline. PSF = any old brand with LC and RX. Coolant= Walmart cheapest junk I can procure with a SMALL dose of LC. Schaeffers 132/131 used periodically too. Grease= Synergyn,Amsoil Convoluted I know.
 
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I originally sought out BITOG when it became pretty obvious that the world was going to be reaching the balance of world oil production and world oil consumption, probably sometime around 2010. Meaning that world oil production will be even with oil consumption, with no way to easily increase the supply and higher prices becoming the norm from then on. Since I am interested in and do research into alternative energy sources, I needed to know a lot about lubrication. After all, if a new 1000 mile battery was invented tomorrow, the all electric car that uses it will still need gallons of lubricants: ATF fluids (auto trans), gear oils (manual trans and differential), PS fluids, brake fluids, AC freon oils, and greases of all kinds for bearings, calipers, slides, pivots, universal joints, etc. Already the $0.93 price for the Havoline dino that I use in my truck has jumped to $1.53 at Walmart. When regular dino ends up costing $3-4 a quart and up, you can be sure that everyone will be demanding to know why 3000 mile OCI's are needed because they won't be able to afford them any more. The answer to these problems isn't to panic or do without. The users here on BITOG have already made great inroads into finding answers that work right now in todays machines with current technology. My 2000 Ranger is a good example of the future to come. If I blindly followed the manufacturer's instructions, I'd still be doing 3000 mile OCI's and rarely or never changing the rest of the fluids. Then replacing the vehicle when it failed at an early age. On BITOG, I learned how to make my machinery last and my lubrication dollar go the farthest by using FP and Neutra to clean my fuel system, LC to remove any carbon buildup, and AutoRX to clean the mechanical assemblies in my engine, transmission, and differential. Then to keep everything clean and in top condition by using FP and Neutra in the fuel, LC in the oil, AutoRX in the differential and auto trans, and Schaeffers greases to protect the pure mechanical assemblies. With side benefits of improved combustion efficiency, higher mpg, and extended OCI's in the engine, less regular maintenance overall, and longer seal life in all assemblies. Regular analysis by Terry confirms the results, fine tunes the application, and finds any hidden problems as they occur. Now that I'm on this regimen, it actually takes less effort for maintenance and most of the money I spend for the additives ends up paying for itself in improved lubrication and mechanical performance. No overkill here. Just smarter use of lubrication [Big Grin]
 
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In a message above Terry mentioned putting a small amount of LC into the cooling system. I wondered about this... it helps to lubricate the water pump??? Helps hold down corrosion? I've never head about doing this from a person who really knows about motors before.
 
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Originally posted by CoosBayDave: In a message above Terry mentioned putting a small amount of LC into the cooling system. I wondered about this... it helps to lubricate the water pump??? Helps hold down corrosion? I've never head about doing this from a person who really knows about motors before.
Interesting idea. Wonder if you could put a small bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil in instead? Might be nice to convert the cooling system over to a light oil entirely as freeze and corrosion should not then ever be a problem, but I suppose it would not provide the proper cooling.
 
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I can say that I would prefer my next new car to go 500,000 miles over having trophy UOA's and Id sort of like opinions on how to get it there. This is a circumstance thats knocking on the door and hopefully the minds here can assist me in helping me achieve the goal. Bugshu [/QB]
Okay guy, I'll tell you from someone that has actually gotten a gasoline engine to last over 500K by many more miles. My last truck has 422K, and although its in the shop because I had no money to keep sinking into it because it was a lemon since new... My current new truck has only 28K on it but it has not BURNED any oil at all... and I'd say that's an important factor to have. The first thing to do is use a decent oil, and they are all good oils today, sure some better than others, and sure many types of factors involved. But if you do a flush every once and a great while and or add something to the normal oil to keep the internals clean, this is all you need in a properly built motor to keep it running a long time. Keep the car in tune and all things like filters and battery in check running an fuel conditioner either once and awhile or all the time. Keep track of your MPG to the third or fourth or fifth place, and when you see the trend drop in milage, find the source. Keep a Cost Ratio of how much it costs per mile to drive and when the costs get to high to maintain than to trade or replace or rebuild, the obvious is then seen. Bottom line is COST. Weigh them, and if you want to pay a premium, then know the cost, and if that premium buys you peace of mind, then go with that. I would use a quality DINO or Dino blend, even if the numbers are a tad off, these engines today are designed to go many many many miles. I know too many people with milages in the high 200K and 300K and some even higher, most of these guys use either something plain like a pennzoil or mobil1, and although there are specialty oils on the market better, these oils will still get a properly designed motor into the hundreds of thousands of miles.
 
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Originally posted by satterfi: I’d only bother doing oil ANALysis for critical and/or expensive equipment. Anything thing else is wasted money or for intellectual entertainment.
I don't know what type/value of car(s) you use, or how you use them, but for my family, both of our vehicles count as critical AND expensive equipment. Sure, I'm "entertained" to an extent by working with my UOAs, but I can assure you that this isn't idle sport. A lot of people, including many members here, dismiss UOA for passenger cars on the premise that it's cheaper and easier to just change the oil. The flaw in this logic is that it incorrectly assumes that the only value in a UOA is in deciding whether or not to extend the use of the presently installed oil. In truth, however, a UOA tells you as much about the overall health of your engine as it does about the present condition of the oil. Even as a relative newcomer to the use of UOAs, I know a lot more about my engines and how to best care for them than those who dismiss UOAs out of hand.
 
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Gebo, disclaimer....I did this as an experiment and it has worked well for me. 1 oz to 1 gallon is probably a bit too high unless it is a HDD application. 1/2 ounce total is enough to clean and lubricate in a normal automotive application. I have used up to 2 ounces successfully. Do not exceed that unless we test both oil and coolant. LC is a good miscibility agent too. Allowing a transition from one coolant chemistry to another. Good to hear from you Brother, Blessings !
 

Bugshu

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Ive been so busy that I havent had time to thank everyone for their responses to my questions and Id like to do so. Im sure that I will have more questions in the future as learning is a never ending enterprise. As an aside, it seems that most dont recommend using ARX with LC though Neutra and the MolaBrew is frequently mentioned as being able to be used together and perhaps compliment each other well. Im somewhat curious as to when its beneficial to start using additives as Ive heard that nobody should use additives before a car hits 1000 miles and other posts suggest one can start using them immediately. Im trying to start learning about 132 and some of the Schaeffer products. It would be interesting to make a brew of 132, LC, and 1 oz of Synpower. And then use it in light dosages. Maybe I should call it the Bugshu Brew. *Chuckle* Anyway, Thanks for the help and Merry Christmas. Happy Motoring All, [Cool] Bugshu
 
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It's all a hobby. We all want our cars to last 300K, 400K, 500K and beyond. The reality is that most of us will not see our odometers go beyond 200K in our new cars. And for a number of reasons: the body falls off, the interior wears out, you total it, you sell it, you don't drive it enough, etc, etc. My Toyota truck will last 300K+ on dino oil at 3K OCIs. It will last 300K+ on GC/LC/FP 10K OCIs. It's all a hobby.
 
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