Advice buying a 2000 M5

[Falcon_LS]

I'm looking to buy a 2000 M5 with 143,000 km (89,375 miles) on the clock. Exterior is black, interior is black with orange leather seats. Overall, the car's in great shape. It has a set of four new Toyo tires and a new fuel pump. Engine oil has always been replaced every 10,000 km (6,250 miles) with M1 0W-40 but the coolant definitely needs to be replaced alongside the PSF, brake fluid, etc. There are four other issues with the vehicle: - When you get the clutch to the biting point, there's some clunking coming from the driveshaft. I'm being told the u-joints are on the way out. - Passenger door window regulator needs to be replaced. - The digital readout on the instrument cluster isn't clear (the top of the numbers are chopped off) - Driver's seat isn't torn, but the leather is discolored. The guy's asking price is ~$13,000, but it is negotiable. Apart from the digital readout thing, the others are all pretty straightforward and I'm tempted to buy it. But before I fork out the money, I was wondering if there's anything else in particular I should check out. Thanks!

 

[SteveSRT8]

It's an awful lot of car for the money. I'd be scared to death to own all that 'aged' tech, but they are super sweet drivers. I'm sure Overkill will have some tips as he recently purchased a lightly used M5.

 

[JHZR2]

Dont you have parts availability issues with crown Vic type cars? If parts availability is going to be an issue, it is with a car like this. Awesome car, but maybe not the best choice unless you have really good service and parts guys. If It's a garage queen, waiting a week to get something doesn't matter as much. I'm not being down on BMW, but the car is much more of a limited production than other BMWs, which may be a consideration... I always have to ask "what else is wrong with it???"

 

[OVERKILL]

A few points: -The clunking may be the prop shaft, I'd get it up on a hoist and see. -Check the guibo. This is the rubber "isolator" that attaches the prop shaft to the drive shaft. They like to tear. -Check that the clutch holds the car on a spirited shift into 4th under heavy throttle. If not, it'll need a clutch. -The digital readout thing is VERY common, mine is a bit shifty. -Does the engine make any noises? The VANOS can be noisy on the earlier cars. -In relation to the above one, check for any light knocking. Some have had rod bearing issues. -Is the CEL on? Mine is LOL! -Does it feel down on power in any way? It may need MAF's or CPS's. Mine has needed to have one of the CPS's replaced. I'm replacing the other three over the winter. -Does it leak any oil? -Is the rear diff leaking at one or both of the half-shafts? -What is the build date of the car? The early cars were supposed to have 10w60 in them, the LL-01 oil cars are after '03/00. -Got any pictures? -Why is it so cheap? This is in the same vein as Steve's post. A good condition M5 will usually go for far more than that. I paid over 18 for mine, and that was the going market rate for one in its condition.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL

-Why is it so cheap? This is in the same vein as Steve's post. A good condition M5 will usually go for far more than that. I paid over 18 for mine, and that was the going market rate for one in its condition.

First thing I thought! It will prove interesting to see what we do not know yet. Does BMW have any aftermarket choices for driveline couplers? In my arena that's one of the newest parts being developed to improve torque capacity yet absorb just enough shock to avoid turning that driveshaft into a pretzel!

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL

-Why is it so cheap?

It may be just his market. Possibly parts availability or competent mechanic availability is a problem in his location when it comes to this type of a car. But it may also just have issues...

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL

-Why is it so cheap?

It may be just his market. Possibly parts availability or competent mechanic availability is a problem in his location when it comes to this type of a car. But it may also just have issues...

A buddy of mine lives in the UAE and just bought an '02 IIRC. It is Imola Red, has a few mods and stuff, but I think he paid around 20K for it.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Thanks a lot for the input, I will post in detail when I'm on my computer, but this is basically the going price for an M5 I'm this market. The other thing is that the car is a grey import from Germany and not a dealer import, which is another reason for the price. A dealer import will be about $1,500-2,000 dearer.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2

Dont you have parts availability issues with crown Vic type cars? If parts availability is going to be an issue, it is with a car like this. Awesome car, but maybe not the best choice unless you have really good service and parts guys. If It's a garage queen, waiting a week to get something doesn't matter as much. I'm not being down on BMW, but the car is much more of a limited production than other BMWs, which may be a consideration... I always have to ask "what else is wrong with it???"

A Crown Vic is one of the easiest car to get parts for here, although the same could be said for all major American, Japanese, Korean and German brands. Aftermarket parts are plenty, and so are OE parts. Parts for limited production models obviously cost more, but that is to be expected.

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL

A few points: -The clunking may be the prop shaft, I'd get it up on a hoist and see. -Check the guibo. This is the rubber "isolator" that attaches the prop shaft to the drive shaft. They like to tear. -Check that the clutch holds the car on a spirited shift into 4th under heavy throttle. If not, it'll need a clutch. -The digital readout thing is VERY common, mine is a bit shifty. -Does the engine make any noises? The VANOS can be noisy on the earlier cars. -In relation to the above one, check for any light knocking. Some have had rod bearing issues. -Is the CEL on? Mine is LOL! -Does it feel down on power in any way? It may need MAF's or CPS's. Mine has needed to have one of the CPS's replaced. I'm replacing the other three over the winter. -Does it leak any oil? -Is the rear diff leaking at one or both of the half-shafts? -What is the build date of the car? The early cars were supposed to have 10w60 in them, the LL-01 oil cars are after '03/00. -Got any pictures? -Why is it so cheap? This is in the same vein as Steve's post. A good condition M5 will usually go for far more than that. I paid over 18 for mine, and that was the going market rate for one in its condition.

Thanks a lot for the detailed input! There are no leaks, and the engine bay is clean. The engine idles very smoothly with no knocking noises or anything, and power is great, although a little servicing will be in order. Haven't heard any strange noises. I will have to check the shift to forth under heavy throttle though. I haven't checked the build date yet, but I am going to give the car another look tomorrow (will also take pictures). Also, other than the reasons I outlined above, price is also affected by the fact that it's a manual. Only a handful of people know how to drive a stick shift.

 

[OVERKILL]

Well if the car is indeed in good condition, at that price, I'd be all over it like Rita McNeil on a pot roast! Let me know about the build date, I'm curious!

 

[Falcon_LS]

Build date is 12/99, so I reckon 10W-60 is to be used. I'll be posting some pictures tomorrow. That said, I'm looking at another 2000 M5 tomorrow as well. Price is the same, except this one's red. Haven't seen the car in person, but it belongs to a BMW tech.

 

[OVERKILL]

OK, the early cars like to use oil (some of the later ones do too, but the earlier ones use more). I'm surprised that he ran M1 0w40 in it. I don't think it would hurt it, but I imagine the consumption would be even worse...... Some of them use 1L/1000Km What year is the red one? Personally, I'd look for a post 03/00 car IMHO. They TEND to have lower oil consumption from what I've read.

 

[dwcopple]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL

Personally, I'd look for a post 03/00 car IMHO. They TEND to have lower oil consumption from what I've read.

But this is an oil forum, for oil enthusiasts, who all have hoards of oil in their basements/garages and live to check and change oil remember...LOL

 

[L_Sludger]

That BMW cost $80,000+++ when new. Its spare parts were expensive when it was new. Today, that BMW costs $13,000, or whatever. Its spare parts are MORE expensive than they were in 2000. You're looking at $1,000-3,000 repairs, depending on which system is to fail in the future. It's almost like buying a home with a tax lien and massive back-stopped electric bills. It's cheap to buy, but wait until you try to move into the place, and you'll see how much it really costs.

 

[SteveSRT8]

^^^^Hahahaha, that is probably true!^^^

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8

^^^^Hahahaha, that is probably true!^^^

Especially if it sees the dealer! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

[CBR.worm]

There is a company in California that repairs/rebuilds the gauge clusters to get you back to full functionality. I don't remember them being terribly expensive, but we didn't have any actual experience with them. We wanted them to repair a Porsche dash w/ missing pixels, but they wouldn't do it. They specialized in BMW displays.