Additive to reduce oil conumption i n1998 Corolla

BrettG

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Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Actually, it's not bad at all for 1998 1ZZ-FE. How many miles? City or hwy? What oils did you use and what OCIs?
There was supposed to be a 2 in front of the quarts. If I put a lot of highway miles when driving to and from my girlfriends house (110 miles or so round trip), its closer to 2 quarts. When its just back and forth to work I dont use as much,
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
GC = German Castrol 0W-30. This one oil is different than others. On the front of the bottle it will say "European Formula". On the back somewhere near the bar code it will say "made in germany". Italian tune up = taking it out and running it hard with high RPM's to blow out any gunk in the engine.
Ok thanks for the clarification for the newbie smile
 
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Originally Posted By: BrettG
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Actually, it's not bad at all for 1998 1ZZ-FE. How many miles? City or hwy? What oils did you use and what OCIs?
There was supposed to be a 2 in front of the quarts. If I put a lot of highway miles when driving to and from my girlfriends house (110 miles or so round trip), its closer to 2 quarts. When its just back and forth to work I dont use as much,
I see. 1qt in 750 miles. The higher consumption you have, the less chance to reverse it by cleaning the rings, IMHO. The oil rings could be all worn out by now. I noticed when oil consumption started in mine (abruptly), there was way more debris on magnetic drain plug than normally.
 
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1 quart every 750 miles is about where our old '00 Corolla was at when we traded it in. The suggestion of a Kreen piston soak is a good one. I can tell you from experience that nothing I put in the crankcase solved or reduced this problem. Unfortunately I didn't know much about piston soaks when we had the '00, plus it was starting to run rough and pinged constantly so it would have been too late anyways. Had 167K when traded in. I would run some Kreen in the oil for 1K miles, do a piston soak and then change your oil afterwards.
 

BrettG

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I'm definitely going to try some kind of piston soak. I have nothing to lose. What's so puzzling is this car runs so well. I get great gas mileage, there no valve noise or pinging. Doesn't smoke. I have plenty of power and no check engine light pertaining to a bad cylinder or anything like that. If I could rebuild this motor, id keep the car until it fell apart. It had 156k on it and still runs so well.
 
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Originally Posted By: sprintman
2 bottles Auto-Rx Plus in a non ester oil (new filter) and run it 6-8,000 miles. If the engine runs cold fix that first.
Great idea if he wants to spend more to achieve less then a piston soak. Seafoam costs what in America,5 bucks,and results are immediate. Or he can wait til the tenth day of never for arx to work,at a significantly higher cost. Sounds like a great idea. Op. Trav is an expert. Follow his directions. And you'll get results.
 

JHZR2

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^if there are small ports that are clogged, I can't see how arx would help regardless. Different issue needs different approach.
 
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2 schools of thought, here, and I've tried both on a 99 and 2000 with the same issue. Here's what I can offer: The issue with 1ZZ's of this era is that the oil return holes in the pistons aren't sufficient and eventually clog up; in most cases, it has nothing to do with the rings until (and unless) it's been let go for too long. Knowing this crucial piece of information, you can deduce that the most important first step is to restore oil flow. Since we're talking about (hopefully only partially) clogged passageways (the oil return holes), that means thinner, not thicker, oil. I had luck with Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 in the 99 (completely stopped consumption in 2 OCIs, no consumption when I sold it a year later) and Pennzoil Ultra 5w20 in the 2000 (they don't make a 0w20 Ultra or I'd have used it). In the 2000, I greatly reduced the consumption, but didn't stop it. In this case, I was able to clear out the oil return holes but I either have stuck or cracked rings (this hypothesis is backed by compression numbers; and I'm leaning toward stuck since the numbers weren't that bad). I'm currently running Rotella T6 (which is a 5w40 HDEO) to try and clean that up; I'm also performing another experiment using canola oil, so any further results I could report on that front won't be valid in your case (e.g. ignore most of this paragraph, it's really just informational and not at all suggesting you follow this path). Basically, assuming your oil return holes aren't completely clogged, the most likely case is you need to run something thinner for a while (1-2 OCI) to begin clearing out the clogged oil return holes before any additive, cleaner, or heavy duty oil will even be able to touch the issue. If that slows, but doesn't completely stop the consumption, then you should use a cleaning additive to attempt to free possibly-stuck rings. And, of course, once you've managed to stop the consumption, consider switching back to the recommended 5w30. Oh, and don't be gentle with it just because it's sick; it's important to get it moving, or you'll only be contributing to the problem. cool
 
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