Adding Lubegard Bio/Tech to motor oil - what happens, does it get diluted?

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What a confusing thread. First off you said you don’t believe in additives but you used one anyway. You agree that a good quality motor needs nothing else but you make the excuse that you added the Lubegard to decrease wear. In addition, you added the Lubegard and then asked all these questions. The prudent way would be to ask the questions first before doing anything.

Is the Lubegard going to hurt the engine? Probably not. Neither would running a quality motor oil.
I'm a bit confused myself.

OP- run a reasonable OCI, and not try to squeeze every mile you can possibly get out of your oil and filter. Get a UOA or two once you decide on a sensible OCI and see how the oil is doing. Tweak the OCI based on data. Doing that should get you plenty of life out of the vehicle.
 
I'm a bit confused myself.

OP- run a reasonable OCI, and not try to squeeze every mile you can possibly get out of your oil and filter. Get a UOA or two once you decide on a sensible OCI and see how the oil is doing. Tweak the OCI based on data. Doing that should get you plenty of life out of the vehicle.

You're absolutely right in what you are saying. So far I've done 3K to 5K OCIs on this vehicle. Let me simplify what I wanted out of this thread:

1) I already put the Lubegard Bio/Tech in because I knew from reading this forum that it is safe to use. I also own a RAM 1500 with a 5.7 HEMI and I also read the RAM forums, and folks over there had success with Lubegard Bio/Tech in alleviating lifter issues. For those issues, it's a bandaid, not a fix of course. So it more than likely works as a cleaning and anti-wear additive. Now, if I was here asking about using Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer then I would seriously deserve a swift kick in the behind.

2) I'm a nerd, so I like to know specifics and how things work. I was actually amazed how fast and well it mixed with Castrol EDGE 0W-40. I emailed Lubegard with questions, told them that I found a VOA on BITOG and wanted to know about what kind of Moly they're using in this product as well as the base oil that carries the additive. Based on their own SDS combined with the VOA I concluded that their additive on its own is like a 0W-16 oil when looking at cSt@40C and cSt@100C, or maybe behaves like ATF. Below is the response I got back:

LUBEGARD Bio- Tech is formulated to work with the engine oil you choose and has no negative effect on viscosity and has no negative impact on the ZDDP or other ant-wear additives in the oil. The Moly we use is a high-quality nano grade Moly designed for modern engines. In addition, the Bio-Tech improves the thermal stability of the oil preventing breakdown or oxidation from occurring. The LUBEGARD and LUBEGARD HD are the same product and are used in the same manner but the packaging is different. It is a fully formulated engine oil additive not a 0W-16 and is most certainly not an ATF. Bobistheoilguy is a good source for some information but often as not they get it wrong like they did on Bio-Tech. As we often say here "proof is in eye of the beholder", meaning if you try the product you will like it. We have sold Bio-Tech for over 25 years and unlike our competitors have never been sanctioned by the FTC or challenged in court.

So of course I want to satisfy my curiosity. I tried probing a bit deeper after I received their reply, but this is all I got from them. It's not like I asked for their super-secret formula that they use to make this stuff :ROFLMAO:

The bottom line is that if this stuff is good and helps with wear and keeping the engine clean then I want to keep using it. However, if it doesn't really do anything then I don't want to throw my money away. Herein lies the problem itself, because the results are hard to see unless you use a product like this longterm. So I wanted to get feedback from others, maybe from folks who have used this product and have some experience with it. Thank you.
 
You're absolutely right in what you are saying. So far I've done 3K to 5K OCIs on this vehicle. Let me simplify what I wanted out of this thread:

1) I already put the Lubegard Bio/Tech in because I knew from reading this forum that it is safe to use. I also own a RAM 1500 with a 5.7 HEMI and I also read the RAM forums, and folks over there had success with Lubegard Bio/Tech in alleviating lifter issues. For those issues, it's a bandaid, not a fix of course. So it more than likely works as a cleaning and anti-wear additive. Now, if I was here asking about using Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer then I would seriously deserve a swift kick in the behind.

2) I'm a nerd, so I like to know specifics and how things work. I was actually amazed how fast and well it mixed with Castrol EDGE 0W-40. I emailed Lubegard with questions, told them that I found a VOA on BITOG and wanted to know about what kind of Moly they're using in this product as well as the base oil that carries the additive. Based on their own SDS combined with the VOA I concluded that their additive on its own is like a 0W-16 oil when looking at cSt@40C and cSt@100C, or maybe behaves like ATF. Below is the response I got back:



So of course I want to satisfy my curiosity. I tried probing a bit deeper after I received their reply, but this is all I got from them. It's not like I asked for their super-secret formula that they use to make this stuff :ROFLMAO:

The bottom line is that if this stuff is good and helps with wear and keeping the engine clean then I want to keep using it. However, if it doesn't really do anything then I don't want to throw my money away. Herein lies the problem itself, because the results are hard to see unless you use a product like this longterm. So I wanted to get feedback from others, maybe from folks who have used this product and have some experience with it. Thank you.
Sounds good. Aside from your observations, which can often raise eyebrows here why not do a UOA with Bio EP and without Bio EP and see if anything changes? Including things like moly and ZDDP counts, viscosity, TBN, etc. There are several members including myself that would be interested in reading about it.
 
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"YogiTheCat, post: 5516388, member: 89374"]

I'm not worried about that, lol. Actually that engine can hold safely 6 quarts of oil, I know that from a Certified Hyundai Technician that took apart several of these 2.4 GDI motors. In fact, his exact words were: "Do you want to keep your car for a long time? Then make sure you keep plenty of oil in there. It holds up to 6 quarts, don't worry about the owner's manual."


My girlfriend takes her '17 Optima to Walmart and it's always overfilled, probably a smaller than OEM filter combined with a get it off the rack before it fully drains (probably the major reason)-- above the fill line but never a problem.
 
Sounds good. Aside from your observations, which can often raise eyebrows here why not do a UOA with Bio EP and without Bio EP and see if anything changes? Including things like moly and ZDDP counts, viscosity, TBN, etc. There are several members including myself that would be interested in reading about it.
I have about 2400 miles left on my 5k interval with LG mixed with m1 5w30 in a ford ecoboost 2.7 I will be doing a followup with plain m1 and doing a voa for both
 
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