Added coolant filter to Jeep 4.0L TJ

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So I bought my 1998 Jeep Wrangler TJ with the 4.0L engine used with 156k miles. The frame and body were spotless, but the cooling system had been neglected. After a few Prestone flushes which I did over a period of a week for my commute to work (1 hour one way, 90 miles total), the system was clean for a few days until I saw more rust. At this point I think the iron block/head is continually rusting inside. The radiator, water pump, and thermostat had been replaced about 6,000 miles before I bought it, and I'd like to keep the radiator and heater core clean. I first tried a mesh screen filter from ebay inline with the heater core hose. That plugged up in about 5 miles. LOL duh Here is what the inside of the heater hose looked like: [Linked Image from i.postimg.cc] Here is the mesh filter: [Linked Image from i.postimg.cc] Here it is 5 miles later: [Linked Image from i.postimg.cc] I decided to get a larger filter that was easier to replace, so I went with the Napa FIL-4019 filter base, Wix 24069 coolant filter (doesn't have the additives for larger semi-truck engines) and plumbed it into the heater core lines so it is before the heater core, but still a bypass which won't impact the engine cooling. [Linked Image from i.postimg.cc] I found the best place for the filter was mounted to the battery tray, so routing the hoses and changing the filter would be easier. I ended up making a bracket to mount the filter base to the battery tray out of some 1/8" thick x 3" wide flat stock I had. I painted it black and mounted up the filter base. The bolts on the battery tray are purposely in the grooves of the tray so bolt heads won't rub on the battery. [Linked Image from i.postimg.cc] [Linked Image from i.postimg.cc] [Linked Image from i.postimg.cc] [Linked Image from i.postimg.cc] Here it is all connected, you can kind of see in the last pic how the lines are routed from the thermostat housing >> the filter >> the heater core inlet. This Jeep is not a daily driver, so I figured for less than $100, this setup can help keep the system clean instead of doing numerous flushes every so often. I plan on cutting the first filter open after 1000 miles and will post the results here. thumbsup [Linked Image from i.postimg.cc] [Linked Image from i.postimg.cc] [Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
 
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Wix 24019 / Napa 4019 coolant filter base, look at RockAuto Filter is 24069, short, 24070 long, no additives... 24071-24075 have additives...
 
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The loose rust collects in the lower part of the water jacket. There is a plug on the drivers side about 3 inches above the oil pan rail. Take that out and flush from top to bottom. The water pump is too high up and you will never get it clean unless you pull that plug.
 
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I hate Jeeps. What a piece of junk. thumbsup I came up with a new acronym for you - Just Evacuate Every Particle. I like the bracket. It came out nice and fits well. Today I'm showing my son how to clean the points in the Willys and we're replacing the ignition in his '87 YJ. Brand new freshy keys that work every time.
 
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Originally Posted by Zaedock
I hate Jeeps. What a piece of junk. thumbsup I came up with a new acronym for you - Just Evacuate Every Particle. I like the bracket. It came out nice and fits well. Today I'm showing my son how to clean the points in the Willys and we're replacing the ignition in his '87 YJ. Brand new freshy keys that work every time.
You are replacing the lock and tumbler?
 
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Why is there GREEN in your filter? The proper coolant for your vehicle is HOAT such as Mopar 68048953AB or Zerex G-05. Neither are green.
 
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I did the same on my XJ, also did a citric acid flush and that greatly improved cooling for me. I'd recommend using thermocure as a flush now though.
 
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jeepman3071

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Originally Posted by Chris142
The loose rust collects in the lower part of the water jacket. There is a plug on the drivers side about 3 inches above the oil pan rail. Take that out and flush from top to bottom. The water pump is too high up and you will never get it clean unless you pull that plug.
Yeah I did see the block drain, wasn't sure how easily that would come out from the looks of it though.
 

jeepman3071

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Originally Posted by HangFire
Why is there GREEN in your filter? The proper coolant for your vehicle is HOAT such as Mopar 68048953AB or Zerex G-05. Neither are green.
Really? Everything I've read online has said regular green for the 4.0L and HOAT for newer Mopars. shrug Source?
 
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Originally Posted by Chris142
You are replacing the lock and tumbler?
Yep - took about 40 minutes. My son was a bit intimidated at first, but relaxed at how smooth it went with Dad at the helm. Regarding color - Also curious on the green. What year did it change? I still use green for my Jeeps and buggy. Never owned a TJ.
 

jeepman3071

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Originally Posted by Zaedock
Originally Posted by Chris142
You are replacing the lock and tumbler?
Yep - took about 40 minutes. My son was a bit intimidated at first, but relaxed at how smooth it went with Dad at the helm. Regarding color - Also curious on the green. What year did it change? I still use green for my Jeeps and buggy. Never owned a TJ.
Literally every Jeep I've owned or worked on in the last 10 years with the 4.0L engine has had green coolant in it.
 

jeepman3071

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Originally Posted by Zaedock
I hate Jeeps. What a piece of junk. thumbsup I came up with a new acronym for you - Just Evacuate Every Particle. I like the bracket. It came out nice and fits well. Today I'm showing my son how to clean the points in the Willys and we're replacing the ignition in his '87 YJ. Brand new freshy keys that work every time.
I'm also jealous you own a Willys. grin2
 
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Originally Posted by Chris142
You are replacing the lock and tumbler?
Yep - took about 40 minutes. My son was a bit intimidated at first, but relaxed at how smooth it went with Dad at the helm. Regarding color - Also curious on the green. What year did it change? I still use green for my Jeeps and buggy. Never owned a TJ.
Late 2001 they went to go-5. My 2002 has had green since 56000 miles. 182k now
 

jeepman3071

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So I cut open the filter after 1500 miles, it was definitely full of rust and had a bit of mud between all the filter pleats. I put the screen filter back in temporarily, inline before the coolant filter just to see what the coolant looked like. I normally have a shut off valve here in order to prevent a ton of coolant loss while changing the filter. Looks pretty clean to me! I'll probably change the second filter around 5-6,000 miles.

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So I cut open the filter after 1500 miles, it was definitely full of rust and had a bit of mud between all the filter pleats. I put the screen filter back in temporarily, inline before the coolant filter just to see what the coolant looked like. I normally have a shut off valve here in order to prevent a ton of coolant loss while changing the filter. Looks pretty clean to me! I'll probably change the second filter around 5-6,000 miles.

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Have you considered using a product like Fleetguard Restore Plus to clean out that corrosion/rust from the cooling system?
 
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