ACEA A5 Oil

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Apr 5, 2005
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Phoenix
Does anyone know of any ACEA A5 synthetic oil that is 5W40? Can only find 5W30. Also, are there ACEA standards that are "above" A5? Trying to reconcile Hyundai's oil recommendations for the 20.T engine. Thanks.
 
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Put "ACEA A5 synthetic oil that is 5W40" in your Google Search box. You will get that info you seek quickly. Also, Santa Fe has forums / messageboards that are helpful to me, another owner like yourself. I will not post that info here. But again, google is your friend.
 

blupupher

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5w-40 has a HTHS that is too high for the A5 rating. API SM is allowed for Hyundai, and a lot of xw-40 oils out that meet that spec. edit: weird, just looked at the owners manual, and the 2.4 has SM, ILSAC GF-4 or above, ACEA A5 or above listed, but the 2.0T only has ACEA A5? Which is weird since their temp chart for the 2.0T allows for 5w-30, 5w-40, 10w-30, 15w-40 and 20w-50, but only 5w-30 meets the A5 spec. there is a little disclaimer at the bottom of the temp chart that says: For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-30 (API SM / ILSAC GF-4). However, if the engine oil is not available in your state, select the proper engine oil using the engine oil viscosity chart. This should allow for whatever to be used, but again, is a bit vague. If you are really concerned about warranty, the you should stick to a A5 rated oil. Me personally, I would not worry about it. Just keep the receipts/proof of oil change and use a quality oil and you should be fine.
 
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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Us the ACEA A5 5w30 spec and the empty Pennzoil Platinum bottle I have in the garage, meets the spec.
Ultra Platinum as well.

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This is just me, but as a Hyundai turbo owner who puts heavy use on his engine, I fully discounted their "recommendation " for a thin A5/B5 oil. I am running Mobil 1 5w-30 ESP which is far superior of an oil with German certs guaranteeing quality in a rough service scenario vs their "mileage only" scenario. Hyundai uses the words "it is recommended" to use A5/B5, HOWEVER they give you an out allowing other oils to use if there are none in the country. We have seen Hyundai send out TSBs to mandate the use of ONLY 5w-40 oil in their 2.0T years ago because of their, ongoing to this date oil film barrier issues that take out rod bearings and then the whole engine. I know, my Elantra GT needed a new motor at 14,000 miles because they can't seem to figure out their high occurrence of why they take out rod bearings in almost every model engine they make at a higher percentage then any other manufacture. 8 years and we still have this as an issue. My 1.6T engine is one of their engines that has the least of this happening thank God. Asian auto manufacture are not known for robust oil specs. I have a high fuel dilution problem very close to the same as the 1.5T Honda's. It is a non issue, since I do regular wear testing and I have no wear issues. I am over 5% @Polaris Labs advanced test. The one you have to force them to do, vs the default, almost no accuracy nothing test. I will not run any Dexos 1 Gen2, I want as close to 12.0 @ 100C as a minimum and a HTHS 3.5 as a minimum. 5w-30 and 5w-40 -30F to 120+F 10w-30 0F to 120+F 15w-40 10F to 120+F 20w-50 20F to 120+F I will risk them "trying" to void my warranty when my choice of oil that falls in their very wide spec for viscosity for this 1.6T engine as per the manual viscosity approved and my choice of oil far exceeds their oil for rough service that my engine sees from time to time. German cert oils are known to be the best called out oil specs for rough service that the common man can buy without access to factory oil and race teams. I really think it is a non issue. I plan and have a strategy to fight them if it every becomes an issue in a warranty claim. You learn quickly, Hyundai loves to screw you on warranty if they can. They have the best warranty on paper, but not when it comes to reality. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act had to be called out when they first tried to deny my 14,000 mile Elantra GT because it had a Fram Ultra on it.
 

knerml

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Originally Posted by blupupher
5w-40 has a HTHS that is too high for the A5 rating. API SM is allowed for Hyundai, and a lot of xw-40 oils out that meet that spec. edit: weird, just looked at the owners manual, and the 2.4 has SM, ILSAC GF-4 or above, ACEA A5 or above listed, but the 2.0T only has ACEA A5? Which is weird since their temp chart for the 2.0T allows for 5w-30, 5w-40, 10w-30, 15w-40 and 20w-50, but only 5w-30 meets the A5 spec. there is a little disclaimer at the bottom of the temp chart that says: For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-30 (API SM / ILSAC GF-4). However, if the engine oil is not available in your state, select the proper engine oil using the engine oil viscosity chart. This should allow for whatever to be used, but again, is a bit vague. If you are really concerned about warranty, the you should stick to a A5 rated oil. Me personally, I would not worry about it. Just keep the receipts/proof of oil change and use a quality oil and you should be fine.
The other confusing fact is that Hyundai recommends using Quaker State oil in the owners manual, and I do not believe they offer ACEA A5 oils. Moving to Phoenix and thinking about using Castrol Edge 5W40.
 
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Korean oil recommendations are a mess. All they mean by A5/B5 is a synthetic oil with HTHS ~ 3.0 cP. In US this translates into a GM dexos1 Gen 2/Gen 3 5W-30. You can also run a high-HTHS oil (HTHS ⥠3.5 cP), but make sure it's mid-SAPS, meaning ACEA C3 or GM dexos2; otherwise, full-SAPS oils like ACEA A3/B4 will increase the rate of the accumulation of the intake-valve deposits in your GDI/TGDI engine. SAPS means sulphated ash, phosphorus, and sulfur, and you ideally need to keep the SA at or below 0.8%.
 
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Originally Posted by Gokhan
Korean oil recommendations are a mess. All they mean by A5/B5 is a synthetic oil with HTHS ~ 3.0 cP. In US this translates into a GM dexos1 Gen 2/Gen 3 5W-30. You can also run a high-HTHS oil (HTHS ⥠3.5 cP), but make sure it's mid-SAPS, meaning ACEA C3 or GM dexos2; otherwise, full-SAPS oils like ACEA A3/B4 will increase the rate of the accumulation of the intake-valve deposits in your GDI/TGDI engine. SAPS means sulphated ash, phosphorus, and sulfur, and you ideally need to keep the SA at or below 0.8%.
Isn't Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 a low SAPS? The old formula had 0.6% ash, but the newer formula has 0.8% ash. https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-esp-5w-30/ .
 
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Originally Posted by Mainia
Originally Posted by Gokhan
Korean oil recommendations are a mess. All they mean by A5/B5 is a synthetic oil with HTHS ~ 3.0 cP. In US this translates into a GM dexos1 Gen 2/Gen 3 5W-30. You can also run a high-HTHS oil (HTHS ⥠3.5 cP), but make sure it's mid-SAPS, meaning ACEA C3 or GM dexos2; otherwise, full-SAPS oils like ACEA A3/B4 will increase the rate of the accumulation of the intake-valve deposits in your GDI/TGDI engine. SAPS means sulphated ash, phosphorus, and sulfur, and you ideally need to keep the SA at or below 0.8%.
Isn't Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 a low SAPS? The old formula had 0.6% ash, but the newer formula has 0.8% ash. https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-esp-5w-30/ .
These are the ACEA SAPS definitions for PCMO (gas and light diesel, the A/B, C, and upcoming G categories): Low-SAPS: SA ⤠0.5% Mid-SAPS: 0.6% ⤠SA ⤠0.8% Full-SAPS: 1.0% ⤠SA ⤠1.6% I guess oils with 0.9% SAPS fall in between mid-SAPS and full-SAPS. Low-SAPS oils are virtually nonexistent as there are only one or two engines that specify them (some Peugeot or Opel diesel engine?), and those specs may go away soon because they're not worth the trouble.
 
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Originally Posted by Gokhan
Korean oil recommendations are a mess. All they mean by A5/B5 is a synthetic oil with HTHS ~ 3.0 cP. In US this translates into a GM dexos1 Gen 2/Gen 3 5W-30. You can also run a high-HTHS oil (HTHS ⥠3.5 cP), but make sure it's mid-SAPS, meaning ACEA C3 or GM dexos2; otherwise, full-SAPS oils like ACEA A3/B4 will increase the rate of the accumulation of the intake-valve deposits in your GDI/TGDI engine. SAPS means sulphated ash, phosphorus, and sulfur, and you ideally need to keep the SA at or below 0.8%.
I've got a new Genesis (Hyundai) G80 with the 3.8 GDI V6. They recommend ACEA A5, there are a few out there; Pennzoil (Ultra) Platinum, Mobil 1, and others. You seem to know a lot about these oils and these engines - can you offer your recommendation? I live in Dallas, TX and drive mostly in the city. It's rarely below freezing but often above 95 degrees in the summer. I get free oil changes for three years, but all they'll do is conventional oil every six months. That's fine as I only drive 9-10k miles a year, but I want to protect the engine, I plan on keeping the car for 8-10 years. Appreciate it.
 
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Originally Posted by DallasCMT
I've got a new Genesis (Hyundai) G80 with the 3.8 GDI V6. They recommend ACEA A5, there are a few out there; Pennzoil (Ultra) Platinum, Mobil 1, and others. You seem to know a lot about these oils and these engines - can you offer your recommendation? I live in Dallas, TX and drive mostly in the city. It's rarely below freezing but often above 95 degrees in the summer. I get free oil changes for three years, but all they'll do is conventional oil every six months. That's fine as I only drive 9-10k miles a year, but I want to protect the engine, I plan on keeping the car for 8-10 years. Appreciate it.
I'd just use what oil is cheap, it says in the manual that if A5 oil isn't available you can use something that is API SM or Ilsac GF-4, With these Hyundai GDI engine the oil itself isn't really what breaks down, it's that they contaminates the fuel with oil and soot and the oil should be changed often, only go 7500miles if you do almost exclusively highway driving otherwise the 3750mi severe service interval is the probably the best OCI to stick to, use an affordable oil Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 or 10w30 tend to be pretty cheap and Quaker State is the brand Hyundai recommends.
 
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Originally Posted by DallasCMT
I get free oil changes for three years, but all they'll do is conventional oil every six months. That's fine as I only drive 9-10k miles a year, but I want to protect the engine, I plan on keeping the car for 8-10 years. Appreciate it.
At such low mileage annually, a dino/blend (very likely they're using something like a Kendall blend or similar) every 6 months is perfectly suitable. With your described driving, you're hardly beginning to tax the oil (modern dino's can easily do 4 or 5k or more miles, vehicle depending) before it gets swapped out. And the fact that the dealership is doing the oil changes is gonna cya ya. Otherwise, if you have a say in the viscosity, I'd go with the thickest they'll put in. For now just enjoy the car, i hear they're fun to drive and i love the body on the new G80, and the free oil changes the next 3yrs and cross that other bridge (what to use after) if/when you come to it.
 
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