ACEA A3/B3 oil for Saab turbo?

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Ok, I'm coming up on my biannual oil change on my 2001 Saab 9-5 (low pressure turbo 2.3L 4-cyl). This will be roughly 4k miles - due to sludge issues I don't want to push the OCI. I am running GC 0w-30 right now and will get an oil analysis when it's drained.

I have been eyeballing the crop of 5w40's out there and can get my hands on (by mail order) Elf Excellium LDX, Amsoil Euro, Lubro-Moly, and Schaeffer's 9000 without too much trouble. The Schaeffer's is the cheapest of the bunch. Redline 5w40 can be purchased locally but it doesn't have the A3/B3 rating that is desirable for the sludge warranty.
Any thoughts?

The other option would be to continue the GC but Saab is recommending the 40-weight in more recent owner's manuals.

I really should pull the valve cover to take a peek for sludge but haven't had the time...
 
My wife has a Saab 95 2.0 lpt MY00; on 70 k miles, after reading about sludge issues with these motors I decided to drop the sump & have a look ( for peace of mind & all). The car had run on Mobil 1 0w-30 from new & drained approx every 12-14k miles ( We do longer drain intervals over here than you guys). The sump ( & everything else) was pretty clean with only a tiny amount of [censored] in the bottom of the pan........wouldnt have bothered if I had x-ray vision.
Its on 0w-40 now , as thats more available than the 30. Would have thought the 30 slightly better than teh 40 due to the turbo.
Dave
p.s. whats the 'GC' stand for?
 
'German Castrol' Castrol Syntec 0W-30. I think it's equal to Castrol SLX Longtec 0W-30 in Europe.
 
I wouldn't worry if the Redline can take it. It's a class apart in a turbo. But I don't think you need a 40 with RL. Their 5 or 10W-30 grades are plenty of film strength for that engine. The Schaeffers is the value champ, but I would also give a long hard look at the 7000 series. The GC is hardly a slouch. The RL or GC would be my first choices.
 
From their website, the Schaeffer's has the following specs:
API CI-4/CH-4/SL and CI-4 Plus. Military Specifications MIL-PRE-2104G and A-A-52306A, JASO DH-1, Mack EO-N Premium Plus-03, Caterpillar, Caterpillar ECF-1, Cummins CES 20076, CES 20077, CES 20078, Detroit Diesel 7SE 270, Detroit Diesel Power Guard Oil Specification 93K214, Detroit Diesel 2000/Series, 4000 Category 1, International Harvester, Navistar, John Deere, JI Case, Komatsu, Dresser. ACEA E5/E3/B3/A3, ACEA E-7-04, Duetz, Daimler Chrysler MB228.1/228.3, Daimler Chrysler MB 229.2. Daimler Chrysler MB 228.5, Renault RVI RXD, Volvo VDS-2 and VDS-3, Man 271, Man 3275, MTU Type 2 and Volkswagen VW 502.00, 505.00, and 505.01.
 
Given the excellent performance that schaeffers products offer, and their relative cost-effectiveness, particularly if they clearly state A3/B3 spec, is IMO the way to go.

Amsoil might give an extra level of confidence with their warranty too... not sure on that one.

Id go with schaeffers, if I was looking for a 5w-40.

For my 04 9-3, Ill be using GC, as it is rated GM-LL-025A and A3/B3.

JMH
 
Supreme 9000 SAE 5W-40 meets and exceeds the following manufacturers specifications and requirements....

which means it doesn't have the official approval.
 
If you're looking for something fairly easy to come by, why not the Syntec 5W40? It meets the A3 spec. BTW, are you aware of the oil medic 9-5 program? They are collecting data on 9-5's to come up with some averages....So far, for the most part, no good synth has looked bad at 5000k miles. I certainly wouldn't hesitate to run Redline 5W30 out past that.

Maxlife Synth 10W30 is also A3, if you can find it. I don't know if you ever go to Saabcentral, but I had put together a list of A3 or otherwise well suited oils for T7 Saabs.

Brian's Recommended Oils for T7 SAABs

Shell Rotella T Synth 5W40
Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic 10W30
Castrol Syntec 0W30 (only available at Autozone)
Castrol Syntec 5W40
Castrol Syntec 5W50
Mobil1 0W40
Mobil1 15W50 EP
Mobil1 TurboDiesel 5W40
Mobil Delvac1 5W40 (mainly at truckstops)
Pennzoil Platinum Euro Formula 5W40 (hard to find)
Redline 5W30
Redline 5W40
Redline 10W30
Redline 10W40
Walmart Supertech 10W30 Synthetic

It's a meager beginning but....
 
Thanks for the list Brian. I'm more of a Saabnet kind of guy, I even have the Saabnet license plate frame
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Do you have a link to the oil medic site? I'd be happy to contribute my oil analysis results to the database.

I am leaning towards the Schaeffer's due to the company's reputation and relative cheapness, at $6.30 a qt (similar to the GC) compared with $7.30 for the Amsoil, $8.36 for the Elf, and $10 a qt locally for the Redline. Yeah, that Redline price stinks. They sell amsoil for the same price.

Oddly enough my local Autozone that used to stock both the Havoline 5w40 (a3/b3 rated) and the Syntec 5w40 dropped both of 'em some time ago.
 
Hey Pablo, not to hijack my own thread, but are you using the Amsoil ATF in your Honda Odyssey? (you are the one with the Odyssey, right?) How is it working? I am paranoid about the tranny in my '03, despite the Honda extended warranty, and will be adding a trans cooler in the future. Aside from the Honda ATF, the Specialty Formulations ATF and Amsoil seem to be the only other fluid options.
 
Yes 2006 Ody. Next (2nd) oil change in say 1000 miles or so, the Amsoil ATF goes in my (wife's) Ody. We probably will just be over the 10K mile mark. I really observe anything I can about the tranny so to note any changes at all no matter what....if you know what I mean
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Then when I change ATF, I'll be in tune.

I've used the AFL in my Volvo and it was great. Do you know **** from Falls Church? He's a SAAB guy, too.
 
I have an '03 Aero. My personal opinion - the 9-5 should only see full synthetic xW-40 or xW-50 weight oils. No 30 weights, no blends, and no group IIIs. 5k changes. The low pressure turbo seems to be even more susceptible to oil problems and turbo failures, so I think these rules go double for you.

I use Mobil 1 5W-40, whatever they're calling it at the present
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Though it doesn't carry the A3 rating, I believe it is perfectly suitable for an A3 application. Saab does not require A3 - the owner's manual states either SL or A3, with a specific recommendation for 5W-40 full synthetics. I believe the sludge warranty letter simply reiterates that full synthetics at the severe service interval is best.

Search for "Aero" and "greenjp" on the UOA page and you'll find a couple of my reports.

jeff
 
I see no reason to switch from GC unless you feel like trying something different for the heck of it.

GC is close to a 40W anyway, it meets or exceeds all the specs you're worried about, it's available locally and it's priced right compared to the other products you're shopping. You can certainly find a different oil for your 9-5 but I don't think you'll find a better one than GC.
 
Newer Saab Synth 0w-30 is A5-rated. You can go w/ A5 unless you have engine mods or A5 in winter and A3 in summer.
 
Quote:


I have an '03 Aero. My personal opinion - the 9-5 should only see full synthetic xW-40 or xW-50 weight oils. No 30 weights, no blends, and no group IIIs. 5k changes. The low pressure turbo seems to be even more susceptible to oil problems and turbo failures, so I think these rules go double for you.

Saab does not require A3 - the owner's manual states either SL or A3, with a specific recommendation for 5W-40 full synthetics. I believe the sludge warranty letter simply reiterates that full synthetics at the severe service interval is best.




My 2001 states SH or SJ or ACEA A3/B3/B4. I think I'll opt for A3 over SH.... As for the viscosity, mine says 5W30 or 5W40 with 0W-30 thru 60 acceptable as long as it's ACEA A3/B3/B4. Interestingly, this second line doesn't mention the API spec, just the ACEA....

I'd say if you're gonna be worried about it, why not get the A3? It only makes sense. How many 40-50 weights are not A3 anyway? I think we know that M1 5W40 is perfectly fine.
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Talking about group III oils, Rotella T Synth has held up well in analysis at the 5k interval. As for 30 weights, I think as long as they are A3 why not?

The most important thing is not the oil, that's a close second. The most important thing is to make sure your PCV system is operating at its best. Replace any soft/punctured hoses, get the latest PCV update kit, etc. Then get your oil pressure tested to make sure the anemic little pump is in good condition.
 
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