ACEA A3/B3/B4 oils

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Heavier synthetic oils ie. 5w40, 5w50,
15w50, 10w40 etc.will be a ACEA A-3 rated oil.
Lower viscosity oils like German Castrol 0w30,
Mobil 1 0w40, Amsoil 5w30 & 10w30 and BMW 5w30
are also A-3. Those are the only ones I know of
in North America.
 
All Redline oils without question would meet this spec. They don't pay to have it done though. RL are the most shear stable oils one can buy.
 
i was trying to find RL'S 5w20....myoilshop.com supposedly has it but i emailed them 2 weeks ago and no response......(i have a 03 f150 w/ a 5.4l)
 
From what I've read and from Terry, RL is the best built oil you can buy right now. It uses a Polyolester base stock and lots of Moly and ZDDP. It pretty much has everything you could want in an oil for hard driving. I can't say I've been impressed with it's UOA's, but Dave from RL and Terry himself will tell you whats going on if you use his services which I recommend. None of use except a few others can really tell what is going on with the more involved UOA's.
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quote:

Originally posted by buster:
From what I've read and from Terry, RL is the best built oil you can buy right now. It uses a Polyolester base stock and lots of Moly and ZDDP. It pretty much has everything you could want in an oil for hard driving. I can't say I've been impressed with it's UOA's, but Dave from RL and Terry himself will tell you whats going on if you use his services which I recommend. None of use except a few others can really tell what is going on with the more involved UOA's.
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I don't want to sound sarcastic but nobody commented about this one and from the day i saw it i was thinking to ask you this question.
Would you use a 10W40 in your corolla ?
"152,800 miles on 84' BMW 318i when the odometer broke a few years ago,according to previous owner. Daughters car, never rebuilt.

Bought last summer for $20. Yes $20.00

Running Citgo 10w-40 with LC and a load of MoS2. Auto-RX'd for about 3000 miles based on trips to college and home. Stopped smoking after RX treatment. Oil leaks slowed too. FP used religously with 87 octane cheapo gasoline.

No heater fan, radio, air conditioning.......I believe in torturing my kids to center them for the real world

[ January 07, 2004, 04:25 PM: Message edited by: Terry ] "


http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=004953;p=2
 
The A3 rating is related to visc @ 100C. So many thicker oils, such as thick 30wt or 40> oils will meet the A3 rating.
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quote:

Originally posted by buster:
The A3 rating is related to visc @ 100C. So many thicker oils, such as thick 30wt or 40> oils will meet the A3 rating.
smile.gif


For many engines made in N/A and Japan, I think A3 is irrelevant for us in N/A. A3 doesn't mean you are getting more protection, imho.
 
quote:

A3 doesn't mean you are getting more protection, imho.

Absolutely. Look at M1 0w-20, MC 5w-20 or any Mobil 1 30wt oil. That spec. has turned out to be totally irrelevant as far as I'm concerned.
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I asked Amsoil awhile back about the A3 spec. and if S2k met it bc it's now a 3.4 HT/HS oil. He said you can't just focus on this particular spec. alone bc so much more goes into an oil. He said many people get hung up on a particular spec. when they should be looking at the whole picture.

[ February 28, 2004, 01:42 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
I think the HTHS number is very important for someone who does a lot of full throttle driving, but not so important for those who just drive normally.
 
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