Remove it and pour it outWhat is the best way to get all the oil out of the compressor?
Most of the time it needs to be removed from the car and drained out the hp/lp ports unless there is an actual drain plug. A lot of Sanden and Nippondenso compressors have drains.What is the best way to get all the oil out of the compressor?
Not enough in it to worry aboutWhat is the best way to get all the oil out of the compressor?
As far as I know, Denso compressors don’t have an oil drain nor a filling port like a Sanden and some Harrison/Delphi(and their clones Calsonic and Zexel/Valeo Japan made for Nissan and Subaru).Most of the time it needs to be removed from the car and drained out the hp/lp ports unless there is an actual drain plug. A lot of Sanden and Nippondenso compressors have drains.
Before trying Red-Tex find and study the info on it. It's primarily propane, does indeed work well as a car refrigerant, but has the disadvantage that it's a gas at normal pressures/temperatures and highly explosive when mixed with air. So in using it in an automotive refrigeration system you're piping an explosive gas into a metal/glass box in which you'll be sitting. Any leak, say in a minor crash ...Red-Tex R12a (or equivalent ) in your situation.
Each 6oz can is equivalent to 18oz of R12.
Especially while searching for leaks, this is a good idea. Most folks don’t have bone dry N2 with a trace of refrigerant to use as a leak check agent. This stuff works, has a pine scent which can be helpful for tracing leaks, and isn’t such a big issue as leaking halogenated hydrocarbons to the atmosphere.This will get me flamed, but hey. On my old 91 Miata I used the Envirosafe ES12 (I think it was) which is a 'drop in' replacement for the R12. It is essentially a mix of propane and butane. It worked great while I had that car.
I forgot the legalities of it, something like it had to be 'converted' over to R134 first or something (Basically it had to have the R134 fittings on it). It's been 15 or so years so I'm a little foggy on it.
--Edit--
Looking at their site, it looks like they advertise theirs all as 134 replacements now. Probably due to the EPA I'd imagine, but if you read the specs it says they are compatible with most oils, which is what you'd be after. So you'd pop on the new fittings and charge with their product.
I'm sure I'm about to get screamed at, so FWIW on this one.