A/C comp taking a while to kick on...

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This issue actually started late last summer, but once temps cooled it got put on the back burner.

Towards the end of last summer, it would take my truck's A/C compressor about 10 minutes to kick on after A/C had been selected on the control panel. Previously, the A/C would come on quickly and start cooling right away. When the issue cropped up randomly, the compressor wouldn't even try to engage until after 10 minutes. After the wait, it would work normally all day, unless I shut the truck off and let it sit for more than a few minutes, then I'd have to do the 10 minute (approx) wait again. I changed the serp belt that summer too as PM, but I can't remember if it was before or after the A/C issues started.

Stupidly, I assumed "hey, it must be low on freon after 10 years and a front collision." I got a cheap single gauge Wal-Mart recharge kit. Pressure did show a little low on the likely incorrect gauge, so I added the can until it got into the green zone for the outside temperature the gauge was set at.

Afterwards, the compressor still took 10 minutes to kick on, but also showed signs of probably being overcharged. When the compressor kicks on, it KICKS on, and the first engagement practically shakes the truck. After the initial engagement, it's smoother, but still not seamless like it used to be. Also, the engine is down on power with the compressor engaged whereas it used to be barely noticeable. Now you can feel the load when the A/C kicks on while going up a hill. This showed up right after the recharge and hasn't changed since, so it definitely seems like I overcharged it. Temps got cool so I left it alone, but now that we are getting into the nasty part of summer, I want to get the A/C fully back in order. Right now it still cools great, but only after its 10 minute wait and it's definitely working the engine once it's on.

Obviously the first step will be getting the pressure right. Probably just going to have a shop do a full evac and refill. I think now that I've put too much in, I can't legally get the pressure right even with a good manifold gauge set.

But that still leaves the 10 minute wait with the compressor. What could be going on there? Some sort of sensor? Worn out clutch? I would think a clutch problem would show up every time the compressor engages though, and not just cause an initial delay. Once on, the compressor seems to work fine and when running the A/C has always been very cold (never measured temp, but it cools off a black truck quick once engaged). This truck has a very basic A/C system operated with vacuum controls, no electronic control panel or anything.

Lesson learned on trying to fix A/C with a China kit from Wal-Mart. Probably would have avoided having to mess with the freon if I had tried to actually diagnose it or farm it out to someone else to diagnose last summer. At least now I know the 10 minute wait probably isn't related to the freon charge, but a good manifold gauge would have told me that.
 
With the A/C switched on and before the compressor starts turning try tapping the front of the compressor clutch with the side of a stick. Don't poke it with the end of a stick, as the clutch may engage and you don't want the stick to be thrown back at you.
 
Yeah I'd get gauges on it ASAP. Report back a reading. There is also a pressure switch that if you jumper, should take certain aspects out of the picture.
 
As stated above, could be clutch, pressure switch, etc.

A circuit with an open when cold could close up as it heats up.

This one could be tricky, but it is likely to be wiring or the clutch/pressure switch.
 
I tapped on the front of the clutch with a screwdriver, but that didn't have an immediate effect. It still took about 10 minutes to kick on, but the engagement did seem smoother than it has been. I'm not ruling out the clutch yet. I'll try tapping it again with something else, but don't have much room due to the fan shroud and fan.

I'll see if one of the parts stores has a loaner set of gauges that isn't torn up on my next day off.

There is an electrical connector on the compressor that looks a little dirty, so I will also clean that up.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl

There is an electrical connector on the compressor that looks a little dirty, so I will also clean that up.


While you're doing that, see if it has power when the failure is occurring. If there's no power there you can eliminate the clutch as suspect.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl

There is an electrical connector on the compressor that looks a little dirty, so I will also clean that up.


While you're doing that, see if it has power when the failure is occurring. If there's no power there you can eliminate the clutch as suspect.


Bingo!!! Beating on a component that has no working voltage is a effort in futility... A 10 minute wait is just about a 99.9% bet it has a electrical or maybe a mechanical problem... I'd put the chances of system being low on refrigerant as miniscule...

I used to have to smack the compressor clutch on my '88 T-Bird with my shoe to get it to engage, had to hit it directly on the spinning clutch pulley to get it's attention... That one was worn to the point the air gap was far too wide, replacement clutch fixed it...
 
Originally Posted By: Errtt
If its voltage... seems strange it would take 10 minutes to get there.


With electronic controls anything is possible...

As already mentioned by another poster a voltage reading should be taken as the first step in troubleshooting this problem, if it's OK not much doubt the clutch has a issue...
 
Will do. I really hope it's getting power, and a dirty connection or the clutch is to blame because the two wires go back into a massive Ford wiring harness that goes all over the place from what I can see.
 
It was the relay! The relay was causing lots of issues.

I put a new one in and the A/C clicked on right away when I turned the switch. Also, the compressor is able to cycle normally now, so it's working much better when it is on. The reduced power on hills was caused by the relay not disengaging the compressor. The rough compressor engagements are also gone.

For BITOG entertainment, here are some pics of the disassembled old relay...
IMG_2720_zps0b686bc5.jpg

IMG_2723_zpsd79c02ce.jpg

IMG_2722_zpsd4b776de.jpg

It doesn't look obviously broken, but it is dirty inside and it looks like there is a burn mark on the inside of the case. The new one is a Ford OEM relay and has a different case.
 
That burned looking spot is metal plating caused by the relay contacts arcing... Eventually the gap is widened enough that when closed the contacts don't quite make connection... Current flowing through the coil caused enough heat to eventually expand the contacts enough to complete the connection...

Sometimes the contacts can be adjusted closer but usually is only a temporary fix, at this point the hard plating on the contact surface is long worn away and only soft copper remains...,

Interesting they are apparently using a 680 ohm resistor as arc suppression, many coils will have a diode in the coil or at least in the circuitry(yours may have one as well)...
 
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