99 Months and 105k miles later…..it’s time for a new battery

[dkryan]

The 2014 Altima 2.5L in my signature has been running with the OEM battery since its July 2013 build date. As noted in the header, 99 months and 105,000 miles.

I’m 98.284% certain it’s a much hated Exide product.

I have checked the water level about every four weeks, more so in the summer (heat kills), and added distilled water as rarely needed.

About every three or four months I use my Solar BA9 to check the battery health and state of charge. I use my CTEK MSUS to bring the charge up when indicated.

I checked the battery today and was shocked to see bluish-white acid under the positive cable.

Doh!

The cables have not been off of the battery in three years or so. So I don’t believe it is an issue of me over tightening the bolts.

I still put the BA9 to the battery and for the first time ever, the display, while showing a 90% charge and 79% state-of-health, emphatically displayed “BAD!”

I would have thought any incident of over tightening would result in micro fractures that would reveal themselves within a couple of months. (?)

So, now it’s “new battery time.” And I was so hoping to get 10+ years out of this battery.

I can buy pretty much any brand in group 35. I don’t see the need for an AGM battery. And I actually prefer to be able to remove the caps on the cells to check the water level. That, and the fact I used the CTEK, got the Exide this far. So I believe.

Costco, Duracell, Everstart, DieHard, ……………

Thoughts?

 

[TmanP]

Wow... checking the water levels more than once a month is impressive but quite a lot. I'm curious: how many times did you actually have to add water? (I've never checked water levels or added any to a battery, but most of ours are now sealed.)

As a point of reference, I got 7.5 or 8 years out of the factory battery in my Camry, but I doubt the previous owner ever touched it (I know I didn't), and replaced that one out of caution as approaching winter - it still tested fine, but I figured the peace of mind was worth something.

I'd go with something sealed so you don't have to mess with it monthly or more, to be honest. Maybe an East Penn or an Everstart from Walmart, which could be either East Penn or JCI.

 

[wemay]

That's impressive!

 

[JC1]

Kudos to you! I've been charging my batteries every 2-3 weeks since last summer. The battery on tbe Caravan is 6 years old and I think the one on the civic is older. I also check the water levels and add as needed.

I prefer to buy my batteries from Costco.

 

[Spartanfool]

If you have access to a Sam's Club, get a Duracell. I got one last December. Rated at 625CCA, I used my battery tester on it and it showed 900CCA when new. Now ten months later, it still tests at 885CCA. Three year full replacement warranty, made by East Penn.

 

[Hall]

I realize you don't want to get stranded somewhere but you're basing that it's "dead" because of your meter ? Is it starting okay otherwise ? I mean, it could certainly make it to 10 years.... Go for it !

 

[JustinH]

One vote for Walmart for a car of this vintage.

 

[skyactiv]

We Bitog members tend to overthink what battery is best, thinking you need more CCA than what the OEM battery was rated at... . I would get the Walmart Everstart Plus if you can find a fresh one. .

 

[RAR]

If you’re concerned about replacing it under warranty, pick the one closest to you or is most convenient.

I threw a Group 65 Walmart Everstart Maxx in my old 2008 Dodge Ram that my nephew now owns back in 2018… I tested it recently and it’s still putting out more than enough amps.

But as for convenience, Walmart eats up a lot of my time if I had to warranty it out, what with the required testing, the minimal staff, etc.

I’ve been getting Costco Interstate batteries lately and have had no issues with them. Not super convenient if I had to exchange, but more than one Walmart battery has failed me vs. nothing with Costco.

The only battery I got from O’Reilly was my Motorcraft Group 65 for the 2010 Ford in my signature. No experience with the Sams Club battery myself.

For what it was worth…

 

[Hall]

But as for convenience, Walmart eats up a lot of my time if I had to warranty it out, what with the required testing, the minimal staff, etc.

Return it to a location that doesn't have an auto service center

 

[dkryan]

Wow... checking the water levels more than once a month is impressive but quite a lot. I'm curious: how many times did you actually have to add water? (I've never checked water levels or added any to a battery, but most of ours are now sealed.)

As a point of reference, I got 7.5 or 8 years out of the factory battery in my Camry, but I doubt the previous owner ever touched it (I know I didn't), and replaced that one out of caution as approaching winter - it still tested fine, but I figured the peace of mind was worth something.

I'd go with something sealed so you don't have to mess with it monthly or more, to be honest. Maybe an East Penn or an Everstart from Walmart, which could be either East Penn or JCI.

I rarely had to add distilled water to the cells; maybe once every 15-18 months.

 

[dkryan]

I realize you don't want to get stranded somewhere but you're basing that it's "dead" because of your meter ? Is it starting okay otherwise ? I mean, it could certainly make it to 10 years.... Go for it !

I don’t believe I said it was “dead.”

And yes, it starts just fine.

The sudden appearance of acid around the positive terminal makes me think all is not right with the battery. Sure, I can clean up the acid, re-check the water level, and head on down the road. Only to find the acid re-appearing within a few weeks, if not sooner.

And according to the Solar BA9 manual, the word “BAD” means
“……The battery cannot hold a charge. It should be replaced immediately. Or, the battery has at least one short-circuited cell. It should be replaced immediately.”

 

[bbhero]

9 years....

Yeah. I'd replace that battery too.

East Penn batteries from Federated Auto parts are actually priced quite well. A 2 year free replacement warranty group 35 battery is $99. And I think the group 24f 3 warranty battery is around $127 I think.

A fair amount cheaper there vs Napa or certainly O Reilly's.

I think O Reilly's is like $170 now for a 3 year free replacement warranty battery.

 

[14Accent]

9 years out of a battery in Cinci? Well done sir. Maybe it's a bit more mild there, but here in MN you're lucky to get 5 years out of a battery. Temperature swings from -25 to +105 over the course of 12 months really does a number on a battery, obviously cold being the main killer.

 

[Donald]

The BA9 does not temperature compensate so you may need to adjust the reading a bit if battery wasn't 70F. You have to pay $400 for a Midtronics that does temperature compensation.

The BA9 needs to be clamped directly to the lead battery posts to get a proper reading. Clamping it to the battery clamps will not give a true reading.

I am surprised it said BAD at 79%.
.
Your battery is 10 years old so it will not test 90% anymore.

Test with a carbon pile load tester for most accurate test. And temp compensate. Half CCA load for 15 seconds and read the voltage.

If it passes the load test through on a felt washer and check in 2022.

A leaker battery is synonymous with saying Exide battery. Same thing. But does not mean it's toast. I once had a leaker battery but it was because my Mastiff chewed on the side of the battery case.

East Penn manufactured battery is what I would buy

 

[bullwinkle]

9 years out of a battery in Cinci? Well done sir. Maybe it's a bit more mild there, but here in MN you're lucky to get 5 years out of a battery. Temperature swings from -25 to +105 over the course of 12 months really does a number on a battery, obviously cold being the main killer.

Not bad-but I once got THIRTEEN out of an Interstate MDP one before it finally died. Checking electrolyte levels regularly & keeping it charged is the secret-let one die a few times really shortens the life (my somewhat stupid brother kills batteries regularly by letting vehicles sit).

 

[sky jumper]

We Bitog members tend to overthink what battery is best, thinking you need more CCA than what the OEM battery was rated at... . I would get the Walmart Everstart Plus if you can find a fresh one. .

no no, don't get the Value Plus... it's the classic medium in S/M/L pricing and only exists to push people to the larger option which is both more expensive and a better value than the middle tier. In most cases the Value Plus is the same battery as the cheaper Value option (warranty and published cca aside) , but it costs $20 more. whereas the Maxx is actually a better product, with a better warranty, and only costs a bit more than the Value Plus. Because the cost to WM is basically the same for all 3 options, they maximize profit on the Maxx. The best value for the customer is the basic Value battery, followed by the Maxx, with the Plus in last. when I bought my 24F at WM a year ago it was $48 for the Value, $78 for the Value Plus, and $88 for the Maxx. I think those prices have gone up since then.
https://marketfit.co/the-psychology-of-popcorn-pricing-2/

 

[blufeb95]

Not bad-but I once got THIRTEEN out of an Interstate MDP one before it finally died. Checking electrolyte levels regularly & keeping it charged is the secret-let one die a few times really shortens the life (my somewhat stupid brother kills batteries regularly by letting vehicles sit).

I don't know if the battery was sealed or not or if any of the places he took it to have it serviced ever topped it up because I know we didn't, but in the old 2002 Malibu my half-brother's dad had the OE battery lasted until 2013 or 2014 if I remember right.

 

[Donald]

no no, don't get the Value Plus... it's the classic medium in S/M/L pricing and only exists to push people to the larger option which is both more expensive and a better value than the middle tier. In most cases the Value Plus is the same battery as the cheaper Value option (warranty and published cca aside) , but it costs $20 more. whereas the Maxx is actually a better product, with a better warranty, and only costs a bit more than the Value Plus. Because the cost to WM is basically the same for all 3 options, they maximize profit on the Maxx. The best value for the customer is the basic Value battery, followed by the Maxx, with the Plus in last. when I bought my 24F at WM a year ago it was $48 for the Value, $78 for the Value Plus, and $88 for the Maxx. I think those prices have gone up since then.
https://marketfit.co/the-psychology-of-popcorn-pricing-2/

The CCA is different on all 3 batteries. I am not so sure it's the same build with 3 different warranties.

 

[blufeb95]

I don't see the point in the mid tier Walmart battery it costs so little to just get the Maxx, I don't know why anyone would get the mid-tier instead.