Easy way would be a HM oil. I'd pull the plugs and check for oil on them. Then adjust the valves back to spec and do a compression test to rule out the possibility of worn/stuck rings.
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99 Honda CR-V consuming oil help
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fujirio
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Originally Posted by Char Baby
First, it could be the synthetic oil. Second, check &/or replace the PCV valve. Third, just use a conventional or high mileage oil. 5W30 sounds about right.
I replaced the pcv before the two oil changes as well as the water pump, 02 sensors, cat, alternator, starter, fuel pump, fuel injectors and radiator. I basically did a full tune up when I bought the car last year. I'll try the high milage, any brand you recommend?
First, it could be the synthetic oil. Second, check &/or replace the PCV valve. Third, just use a conventional or high mileage oil. 5W30 sounds about right.
I replaced the pcv before the two oil changes as well as the water pump, 02 sensors, cat, alternator, starter, fuel pump, fuel injectors and radiator. I basically did a full tune up when I bought the car last year. I'll try the high milage, any brand you recommend?
Last edited:
fujirio
Thread starter
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by fujirio
Hi all, I got a 99 Honda CR-V that tends to eat oil up. I tried Valvoline full synthetic the last two fills only to find out my oil was low (about 1 1/2 quarts). This time around I put in Chevron supreme 5w-30. My question is can I run a thicker oil like a mechanic suggested? He recommended Rotella T6 in 5/40. Any advantages and disadvantages?
Car has 220,000 miles.
Is that 1.5qts over 2 oil changes or is that 1.5 over one oil change? And how long is your typical drain interval?
A thicker oil will slow down consumption but it's not a fix. You could try a HiMi formula, it's not going to hurt anything at this point...but keep in mind at 220k, that train has probably already left the station...so don't get your hopes up. Clean your pcv as was already suggested.
It's 1.5-2 every oil change.
Originally Posted by fujirio
Hi all, I got a 99 Honda CR-V that tends to eat oil up. I tried Valvoline full synthetic the last two fills only to find out my oil was low (about 1 1/2 quarts). This time around I put in Chevron supreme 5w-30. My question is can I run a thicker oil like a mechanic suggested? He recommended Rotella T6 in 5/40. Any advantages and disadvantages?
Car has 220,000 miles.
Is that 1.5qts over 2 oil changes or is that 1.5 over one oil change? And how long is your typical drain interval?
A thicker oil will slow down consumption but it's not a fix. You could try a HiMi formula, it's not going to hurt anything at this point...but keep in mind at 220k, that train has probably already left the station...so don't get your hopes up. Clean your pcv as was already suggested.
It's 1.5-2 every oil change.
fujirio
Thread starter
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
Rotella is good stuff.
I would try Maxlife or ST High Mileage 5w30.
Or even mix in a quart of 10w30 and see how that Honda engine likes it.
If I mix a quart, what signs am I looking for if the car hates it?
Rotella is good stuff.
I would try Maxlife or ST High Mileage 5w30.
Or even mix in a quart of 10w30 and see how that Honda engine likes it.
If I mix a quart, what signs am I looking for if the car hates it?
fujirio
Thread starter
Originally Posted by Powerglide
If it's consuming a quart in 1500-2000 miles-it's got a lot of life left in it. My daughter's 1995 Corolla has 225k miles on it and uses a quart of oil every 2000 miles in HOT south Florida weather. That's 3 quarts between changes on my oci schedule. That's roughly $15 of oil between changes as opposed to $1000s for a re-ring and valve stem seals (which would greatly exceed the value of the car). No smoke out the tail pipe, 24-33 MPGs, runs, shifts and drives perfect, cold a/c and looks like it's 5 years old. There's another 1OOK miles of life in it. Keep the sump full and yours will do the same.
Thanks, I also have a Corolla with 200,000 and never had any issues with it. I tend to keep all my cars until they get in a wreck (drive the CA-405 every day)
If it's consuming a quart in 1500-2000 miles-it's got a lot of life left in it. My daughter's 1995 Corolla has 225k miles on it and uses a quart of oil every 2000 miles in HOT south Florida weather. That's 3 quarts between changes on my oci schedule. That's roughly $15 of oil between changes as opposed to $1000s for a re-ring and valve stem seals (which would greatly exceed the value of the car). No smoke out the tail pipe, 24-33 MPGs, runs, shifts and drives perfect, cold a/c and looks like it's 5 years old. There's another 1OOK miles of life in it. Keep the sump full and yours will do the same.
Thanks, I also have a Corolla with 200,000 and never had any issues with it. I tend to keep all my cars until they get in a wreck (drive the CA-405 every day)
fujirio
Thread starter
Originally Posted by Bjornviken
try to use a a3 oil
Sorry, I've never heard of a3. What would you recommend?
try to use a a3 oil
Sorry, I've never heard of a3. What would you recommend?
To the OP, try Valvoline premium blue restore in 10w30 flavor. It's supposed to be radically different than any other oil on the market and is specifically made for oil consumption. My little Kia doesn't leak or use any oil between changes, but if it did I would reach for that over an engine rebuild.
fujirio
Thread starter
Originally Posted by fdcg27
After only twenty years and 222K this thing is using oil?
LOL!
We've had a couple of 200K four cylinder Hondas and neither showed any appreciable oil consumption but both were on short drains by me and both were also redlined regularly. Both were also sticks, which made redline fun and may have helped in keeping the rings free.
The question in this case is whether the engine is badly worn or is merely suffering sticking rings.
Certainly replace the PCV valve, but there is also some chemical intervention you could try with Kreen and/or Valvoline's very costly magic carbon dissolving oil.
If these efforts produce no positive results, run M1 HM 10W-30 and add oil as needed.
There was a guy here who actually did a field rebuild on an '85 Civic with 400K due to the car blowing too much smoke for CA emissions and his not wanting to part with it, but I'd doubt that you'd want to go to that extreme.
Originally Posted by berniedd
My 1998 CRV with only 70,000 miles began consuming oil at the 17 year old mark. I pulled the spark plugs and #1 and #2 were oily at the tips. Verdict: leaking valve stem seals, likely due to age (yes, age causes rubber to get stiff). The seals were changed and that fixed the issue. I'd bet you are in the same boat, but likely you need new piston rings too. If you do get the rings changed, then you might as well replace the crankshaft and conn rod bearings too. One thing leads to another. Considering the car's age and mileage, may I suggest replacing only the valve stem seals. That can be done without removing the cylinder head. If that improves things, then you'd have bought yourself more life from the engine with reasonable expense.
Checking the PCV is a good idea. It is right there in the middle of the engine valve cover edge.
I had a mechanic replace the valve cover gasket along with other things when I first bought it (alternator, pcv, water pump, belts, starter, Sparks, wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, radiator, valve adjustments, etc). The car does stall of o brake to hard. Like it loses spark.
After only twenty years and 222K this thing is using oil?
LOL!
We've had a couple of 200K four cylinder Hondas and neither showed any appreciable oil consumption but both were on short drains by me and both were also redlined regularly. Both were also sticks, which made redline fun and may have helped in keeping the rings free.
The question in this case is whether the engine is badly worn or is merely suffering sticking rings.
Certainly replace the PCV valve, but there is also some chemical intervention you could try with Kreen and/or Valvoline's very costly magic carbon dissolving oil.
If these efforts produce no positive results, run M1 HM 10W-30 and add oil as needed.
There was a guy here who actually did a field rebuild on an '85 Civic with 400K due to the car blowing too much smoke for CA emissions and his not wanting to part with it, but I'd doubt that you'd want to go to that extreme.
Originally Posted by berniedd
My 1998 CRV with only 70,000 miles began consuming oil at the 17 year old mark. I pulled the spark plugs and #1 and #2 were oily at the tips. Verdict: leaking valve stem seals, likely due to age (yes, age causes rubber to get stiff). The seals were changed and that fixed the issue. I'd bet you are in the same boat, but likely you need new piston rings too. If you do get the rings changed, then you might as well replace the crankshaft and conn rod bearings too. One thing leads to another. Considering the car's age and mileage, may I suggest replacing only the valve stem seals. That can be done without removing the cylinder head. If that improves things, then you'd have bought yourself more life from the engine with reasonable expense.
Checking the PCV is a good idea. It is right there in the middle of the engine valve cover edge.
I had a mechanic replace the valve cover gasket along with other things when I first bought it (alternator, pcv, water pump, belts, starter, Sparks, wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, radiator, valve adjustments, etc). The car does stall of o brake to hard. Like it loses spark.
Originally Posted by fujirio
It's 1.5-2 every oil change.
Obviously you know that amount of oil doesn't just disappear. It's being burned in the combustion chamber via one of several routes. The most common for a car that age are rings and valve stems. Some oil can get sucked out via a stuck pcv valve but not 2qts IMO.
Before dumping $80 into expensive oil like Valvoline Blue.. I'd do an engine flush or something like Seafoam or Kreen in the combustion chamber to try and free up stuck rings and valve stem seals that might be sludged up w/a flush. Then I'd switch to a HDEO or HiMi formula (-preferably) for further cleaning and conditioning of seals. If sludge and varnish have coated the seals they may not be getting adequate lubrication to maintain size and flexibility. You need to give it a couple oil changes before you can render an opinion on whether it's having any sort of (positive) effect. If however after a couple oci's with the new oil formula the consumption hasn't changed, there's not much you can do besides a) plunking down $80 on VB oil to see if that helps any, b) keeping it topped off and ride it into the sunset or c) a rebuild.
It's 1.5-2 every oil change.
Obviously you know that amount of oil doesn't just disappear. It's being burned in the combustion chamber via one of several routes. The most common for a car that age are rings and valve stems. Some oil can get sucked out via a stuck pcv valve but not 2qts IMO.
Before dumping $80 into expensive oil like Valvoline Blue.. I'd do an engine flush or something like Seafoam or Kreen in the combustion chamber to try and free up stuck rings and valve stem seals that might be sludged up w/a flush. Then I'd switch to a HDEO or HiMi formula (-preferably) for further cleaning and conditioning of seals. If sludge and varnish have coated the seals they may not be getting adequate lubrication to maintain size and flexibility. You need to give it a couple oil changes before you can render an opinion on whether it's having any sort of (positive) effect. If however after a couple oci's with the new oil formula the consumption hasn't changed, there's not much you can do besides a) plunking down $80 on VB oil to see if that helps any, b) keeping it topped off and ride it into the sunset or c) a rebuild.
Last edited:
fujirio
Thread starter
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by fujirio
It's 1.5-2 every oil change.
Obviously you know that amount of oil doesn't just disappear. It's being burned in the combustion chamber via one of several routes. The most common for a car that age are rings and valve stems. Some oil can get sucked out via a stuck pcv valve but not 2qts IMO.
Before dumping $80 into expensive oil like Valvoline Blue.. I'd do an engine flush or something like Seafoam or Kreen in the combustion chamber to try and free up stuck rings and valve stem seals that might be sludged up w/a flush. Then I'd switch to a HDEO or HiMi formula (-preferably) for further cleaning and conditioning of seals. If sludge and varnish have coated the seals they may not be getting adequate lubrication to maintain size and flexibility. You need to give it a couple oil changes before you can render an opinion on whether it's having any sort of (positive) effect. If however after a couple oci's with the new oil formula the consumption hasn't changed, there's not much you can do besides a) plunking down $80 on VB oil to see if that helps any, b) keeping it topped off and ride it into the sunset or c) a rebuild.
Okay, so put sea foam where the oil goes? Do I do this a couple miles before an oil change? Sorry for the dumb questions.
Originally Posted by fujirio
It's 1.5-2 every oil change.
Obviously you know that amount of oil doesn't just disappear. It's being burned in the combustion chamber via one of several routes. The most common for a car that age are rings and valve stems. Some oil can get sucked out via a stuck pcv valve but not 2qts IMO.
Before dumping $80 into expensive oil like Valvoline Blue.. I'd do an engine flush or something like Seafoam or Kreen in the combustion chamber to try and free up stuck rings and valve stem seals that might be sludged up w/a flush. Then I'd switch to a HDEO or HiMi formula (-preferably) for further cleaning and conditioning of seals. If sludge and varnish have coated the seals they may not be getting adequate lubrication to maintain size and flexibility. You need to give it a couple oil changes before you can render an opinion on whether it's having any sort of (positive) effect. If however after a couple oci's with the new oil formula the consumption hasn't changed, there's not much you can do besides a) plunking down $80 on VB oil to see if that helps any, b) keeping it topped off and ride it into the sunset or c) a rebuild.
Okay, so put sea foam where the oil goes? Do I do this a couple miles before an oil change? Sorry for the dumb questions.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by fujirio
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by fujirio
It's 1.5-2 every oil change.
Obviously you know that amount of oil doesn't just disappear. It's being burned in the combustion chamber via one of several routes. The most common for a car that age are rings and valve stems. Some oil can get sucked out via a stuck pcv valve but not 2qts IMO.
Before dumping $80 into expensive oil like Valvoline Blue.. I'd do an engine flush or something like Seafoam or Kreen in the combustion chamber to try and free up stuck rings and valve stem seals that might be sludged up w/a flush. Then I'd switch to a HDEO or HiMi formula (-preferably) for further cleaning and conditioning of seals. If sludge and varnish have coated the seals they may not be getting adequate lubrication to maintain size and flexibility. You need to give it a couple oil changes before you can render an opinion on whether it's having any sort of (positive) effect. If however after a couple oci's with the new oil formula the consumption hasn't changed, there's not much you can do besides a) plunking down $80 on VB oil to see if that helps any, b) keeping it topped off and ride it into the sunset or c) a rebuild.
Okay, so put sea foam where the oil goes? Do I do this a couple miles before an oil change? Sorry for the dumb questions.
You do it literally just before changing the oil. You pour it into the crankcase and idle the engine for about 5-10mins. I then, when I do it, let it sit for a half hour or so to a) allow the solvents to do their job and b) allow for the treated oil to drain down to the pan. Then change it. I allow the new oil to run for about 50 miles than change the filter. You do this because the flush could free up sludge and you don't want it trapped in your filter for too long where it can reduce flow. If you need a visual, just go to YouTube and do a search for engine flush.
Another method to freeing stuck rings is to introduce a cleaner directly into the combustion chamber via the spark plug opening or via the intake by induction. This method is slightly more complicated and has the risk of hydro/vapour locking the engine (the actual combustion area in the cylinder is very small) if you aren't careful, so I would def' research this method out thoroughly before attempting. It's totally safe to do if you do it right and can be an effective way to not only free up stuck rings but clean the piston tops.. which when they are heavily covered in carbon can effect engine performance (compression/knock/timing, fuel consumption, hot spots etc).
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by fujirio
It's 1.5-2 every oil change.
Obviously you know that amount of oil doesn't just disappear. It's being burned in the combustion chamber via one of several routes. The most common for a car that age are rings and valve stems. Some oil can get sucked out via a stuck pcv valve but not 2qts IMO.
Before dumping $80 into expensive oil like Valvoline Blue.. I'd do an engine flush or something like Seafoam or Kreen in the combustion chamber to try and free up stuck rings and valve stem seals that might be sludged up w/a flush. Then I'd switch to a HDEO or HiMi formula (-preferably) for further cleaning and conditioning of seals. If sludge and varnish have coated the seals they may not be getting adequate lubrication to maintain size and flexibility. You need to give it a couple oil changes before you can render an opinion on whether it's having any sort of (positive) effect. If however after a couple oci's with the new oil formula the consumption hasn't changed, there's not much you can do besides a) plunking down $80 on VB oil to see if that helps any, b) keeping it topped off and ride it into the sunset or c) a rebuild.
Okay, so put sea foam where the oil goes? Do I do this a couple miles before an oil change? Sorry for the dumb questions.
You do it literally just before changing the oil. You pour it into the crankcase and idle the engine for about 5-10mins. I then, when I do it, let it sit for a half hour or so to a) allow the solvents to do their job and b) allow for the treated oil to drain down to the pan. Then change it. I allow the new oil to run for about 50 miles than change the filter. You do this because the flush could free up sludge and you don't want it trapped in your filter for too long where it can reduce flow. If you need a visual, just go to YouTube and do a search for engine flush.
Another method to freeing stuck rings is to introduce a cleaner directly into the combustion chamber via the spark plug opening or via the intake by induction. This method is slightly more complicated and has the risk of hydro/vapour locking the engine (the actual combustion area in the cylinder is very small) if you aren't careful, so I would def' research this method out thoroughly before attempting. It's totally safe to do if you do it right and can be an effective way to not only free up stuck rings but clean the piston tops.. which when they are heavily covered in carbon can effect engine performance (compression/knock/timing, fuel consumption, hot spots etc).
Last edited:
Originally Posted by fujirio
Originally Posted by Char Baby
First, it could be the synthetic oil. Second, check &/or replace the PCV valve. Third, just use a conventional or high mileage oil. 5W30 sounds about right.
I replaced the pcv before the two oil changes as well as the water pump, 02 sensors, cat, alternator, starter, fuel pump, fuel injectors and radiator. I basically did a full tune up when I bought the car last year. I'll try the high milage, any brand you recommend?
I'd try some Quaker State HM(QSHM) at Walmart for starters. It is a good oil and on Roll Back at around $13.** for a 5qt jug. Most, if not all regular HM oils are a BLEND and you don't really need a synthetic IMO.
MaxLife is where I started for the Firebird in my signature which was dripping and had some blowby that I couldn't see. This slowed down my usage. YOU WON'T NOTICE ANYTHING RIGHT AWAY. GIVE IT TIME!
Then I tried QS DEFY(now just called QSHM). I am currently using Pennzoil HM. All HM oils have worked with decent success. The drips are almost gone but, I doubt that it'll stop completely. I can go all summer without adding any oil at all.
Originally Posted by Char Baby
First, it could be the synthetic oil. Second, check &/or replace the PCV valve. Third, just use a conventional or high mileage oil. 5W30 sounds about right.
I replaced the pcv before the two oil changes as well as the water pump, 02 sensors, cat, alternator, starter, fuel pump, fuel injectors and radiator. I basically did a full tune up when I bought the car last year. I'll try the high milage, any brand you recommend?
I'd try some Quaker State HM(QSHM) at Walmart for starters. It is a good oil and on Roll Back at around $13.** for a 5qt jug. Most, if not all regular HM oils are a BLEND and you don't really need a synthetic IMO.
MaxLife is where I started for the Firebird in my signature which was dripping and had some blowby that I couldn't see. This slowed down my usage. YOU WON'T NOTICE ANYTHING RIGHT AWAY. GIVE IT TIME!
Then I tried QS DEFY(now just called QSHM). I am currently using Pennzoil HM. All HM oils have worked with decent success. The drips are almost gone but, I doubt that it'll stop completely. I can go all summer without adding any oil at all.
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