98 Audi A4 1.8T Oil and filter recommendation

[charmer37]

Hello, I would like to know what is a good oil and filter for a 98 Audi A4 1.8T? Thank you.

 

[1JZ_E46]

Castrol 0W-40 or Mobil 0W-40. Take your pick. As for filters, I’ve always preferred Mann. Both of those oils are available at Walmart in 5 quart jugs at a good price.

 

[edyvw]

Originally Posted By: charmer37

Hello, I would like to know what is a good oil and filter for a 98 Audi A4 1.8T? Thank you.

I had later version of that engine, Castrol 0W30 or now 0W40 worked smoothest. M1 0W40 (granted, at that time was older version) was bit noisy. Still, both Castrol and Mobil1 will do good. More important is that you use in that engine large oil filter. There are two types, smaller one and large one. Under any circumstances do not use smaller one since larger is one of the ways to address sludge issues those engines had.

 

[charmer37]

Thank's

 

[Olas]

For oil use any xw40 that meets A3/B4 or 502/505 and for a filter you want a mann w940/44 or a Mahle oc51.

 

[RooflessVW]

Rotella T6 and a Wix 51393.

 

[Charlie2015]

VML 10w40

 

[UG_Passat]

Mann 940/25 and Rotella T6

 

[Olas]

Originally Posted By: UG_Passat

Mann 940/25 and Rotella T6

Rotella can go a lot further than a 940/25. They updated it for long life and called it a 940/44 which would better utilise the abilities of the Rotella

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: Charlie2015

VML 10w40

I wouldn't recommend that. Those engines needed full synthetic to prevent sludging.

 

[Audios]

Use the big diesel filter that was part of the bulletin and any quality synthetic. I did run semi syn 15/40 in mine for about 10k, but this was for short intervals under 5k after I had to replace the head. Timing belt stripped at 57k, back in 2001.

 

[benjy]

out of warranty a 10W30 fake synthetic will do fine + a quality filter. if you don't mind the cost a real synthetic is best but that worked well for my 200,000 mile 2001 1.8T jetta aka cheap audi. if your consuming a 10-40 or 15-40 would serve better. i am above you in Pa just a little cooler + 10W works well, my 2001 TT gets the 40 variety as it uses a bit more than the similar jetta engine, both hopped up!!!!

 

[sloinker]

Full synthetic 0w-40 and the larger filter. I would use the M1 annual protection and change at the manufacturers OCI.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: sloinker

Full synthetic 0w-40 and the larger filter. I would use the M1 annual protection and change at the manufacturers OCI.

No. First off there is no 0W-40 Annual Protection product. And second, I would not use the AP due to the fact that the highest HTHS available (5W-30) is 3.0 which is lower than what Audi requires with 502 00 oils. The ExxonMobil site recommends 0W-40 FS or he can use Castrol 0W-40, whichever one is cheaper. Do not use the Annual Protection product as it is neither recommended by ExxonMobil for that engine nor does it have the proper characteristics.

 

[1JZ_E46]

Originally Posted By: kschachn

Originally Posted By: sloinker

Full synthetic 0w-40 and the larger filter. I would use the M1 annual protection and change at the manufacturers OCI.

No. First off there is no 0W-40 Annual Protection product. And second, I would not use the AP due to the fact that the highest HTHS available (5W-30) is 3.0 which is lower than what Audi requires with 502 00 oils. The ExxonMobil site recommends 0W-40 FS or he can use Castrol 0W-40, whichever one is cheaper. Do not use the Annual Protection product as it is neither recommended by ExxonMobil for that engine nor does it have the proper characteristics.

I was going to reply to the AP comment but figured I’d let another member have at it. Well done sir.

 

[sloinker]

High mileage 1.8L VW engine with 5-6k OCI is ripe for a VVT actuator failure and is probably one mass of sludge already. Since this car has a small oil sump and small filter the 5-6K OCI has ruined a lot of these engines, even with the updated only synthetic recommendation. As pointed out there is no M1 AP in 0W-40 and rather than using a class III castrol or M1, reach for a synthetic that has some measure of PAO and/or esters. Find some Ravenol, Motul, Amsoil, Red Line etc. In an appropriate grade/weight specification or continue using the class III and listen closely for when the VVT actuator starts making chain slapping noises at low rpm's and replace it. Come to think of it. The application of a true synthetic may break down the existing inherent sludge and cause catastrophic engine failure. Use the castrol and let sleeping dogs lie.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: sloinker

High mileage 1.8L VW engine with 5-6k OCI is ripe for a VVT actuator failure and is probably one mass of sludge already. Since this car has a small oil sump and small filter the 5-6K OCI has ruined a lot of these engines, even with the updated only synthetic recommendation. As pointed out there is no M1 AP in 0W-40 and rather than using a class III castrol or M1, reach for a synthetic that has some measure of PAO and/or esters. Find some Ravenol, Motul, Amsoil, Red Line etc. In an appropriate grade/weight specification or continue using the class III and listen closely for when the VVT actuator starts making chain slapping noises at low rpm's and replace it. Come to think of it. The application of a true synthetic may break down the existing inherent sludge and cause catastrophic engine failure. Use the castrol and let sleeping dogs lie.

What is the majority base stock of Castrol 0W-40? One should not make recommendations based on what they imagine is correct, especially when it is based solely on base stock composition. There are much more important characteristics such as manufacturer approvals. What proof do you have that Mobil 1 0W-40 contributes to the issues you list above?

 

[1JZ_E46]

Originally Posted By: sloinker

High mileage 1.8L VW engine with 5-6k OCI is ripe for a VVT actuator failure and is probably one mass of sludge already. Since this car has a small oil sump and small filter the 5-6K OCI has ruined a lot of these engines, even with the updated only synthetic recommendation. As pointed out there is no M1 AP in 0W-40 and rather than using a class III castrol or M1, reach for a synthetic that has some measure of PAO and/or esters. Find some Ravenol, Motul, Amsoil, Red Line etc. In an appropriate grade/weight specification or continue using the class III and listen closely for when the VVT actuator starts making chain slapping noises at low rpm's and replace it. Come to think of it. The application of a true synthetic may break down the existing inherent sludge and cause catastrophic engine failure. Use the castrol and let sleeping dogs lie.

Lot of opinion in here. Run a quality synthetic with 502 approval. Many 502 oils also have BMW LL-01, MB 229.5, and Porsche A40 approval. I would choose an oil that meets all 4 to ensure you are getting a certifiably quality oil. There’s a few readily available to choose from.