97 jeep tj Mobile 1

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This is neat- another 4.0L UOA the same week as mine: http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1437719#Post1437719 Comparing the two, your engine has about 29,000 fewer miles than mine, and your oil has 2900 fewer miles than mine (cue eerie music). Your Mobil-1 obviously has more Moly (for those who like Moly :) and less ZDDP than my RTS (older SL rated batch). Other than that, the numbers track OK. You're at 15 ppm FE and I'm at 19, which isn't as big a spread as I'd expect with the difference in mileage on the oil, but that might be the thinner oil or even the fact that it has less ZDDP. Or it might stabilize and turn out the same as mine if you ran it out another 3000 miles, hard to say. Lead, copper, and nickel- same story. Close to my numbers but on fewer miles but that's nothing conclusive. Its interesting that Blackstone's "Universal averages" column on yours is allegedly for 2000 miles, and mine is allegedly for 4500 miles and they're almost identical. Some might say TOO identical... Hmmm. You didn't get a TBN... CHEAPSKATE!!! I'll bet yours is a little lower judging by the lower calcium reading, but that's to be expected comparing an HDEO to a regular passcar oil. I'll probably run another change of RTS (SM this time) over the summer and then I'll either try M1 0w30 AFE, or else an SL-rated 5w30 (maybe RP) and see how those pan out. I've always believed that Jeeps like slightly heavier oils, so I want to do a test with a lighter oil to confirm/deny the hypothesis.
 
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 Originally Posted By: addyguy
Complete waste of oil to run it this short. Even the cheapest dino will go 5k miles.
These kind of posts crack me up. About 2 or 3 of the guys do this over and over again. While not untrue, it's just the lecturing tone and repititititive nature . No other info asked for, just basically: (no offense to addguy, surprised he's on this silly bandwagon) "I'm a really smart guy and I hang out on BITOG. You on the other hand, obviously don't know what you are doing, because you stupidly drained a VERY expensive oil and when I say a COMPLETE waste of time and YOUR money I mean COMPLETE, because I know how you are doing in the finance department. I know for a fact that any of the most minimal API oil will last 5000 miles, probably 10000 miles" vs. "I'm a bit curious why you drained this oil so early" OR "Did you drain the oil?"
 
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Okay, maybe my statement was too definite w/o knowing the full story - whether this oil was actually drained, or if there was an underlying reason for draining it. But the person's financial status has nothing to do with this - even the richest person in the world can waste money or items. Yes, it may not be a 'strain' or issue for them, but the basic fact that it is a waste of a product that could be used for its intended purpose longer is just that, a fact.
 
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 Originally Posted By: addyguy
Complete waste of oil to run it this short. Even the cheapest dino will go 5k miles.
Where does it say he changed the oil? Granted, I am a convert to the belief that 3k is ridiculously short for 90% of the cars out there, so I understand where you're coming from- but there are other possibilites too. I'm planning to do a "quick look" analysis on another engine running an oil I've never run before here in a few weeks. It'll have about 1000 miles on it, if that, and I won't change it unless the analysis makes me feel uneasy.
 
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 Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
 Originally Posted By: addyguy
Complete waste of oil to run it this short. Even the cheapest dino will go 5k miles.
Where does it say he changed the oil? Granted, I am a convert to the belief that 3k is ridiculously short for 90% of the cars out there, so I understand where you're coming from- but there are other possibilites too. I'm planning to do a "quick look" analysis on another engine running an oil I've never run before here in a few weeks. It'll have about 1000 miles on it, if that, and I won't change it unless the analysis makes me feel uneasy.
You're right, I have no proof whatsoever that he didn't just sample this oil, and leave it in. BUT, with no evidence to suggest otherwise, I went off a couple of 'hunches': -most people who just sample the oil will make specific mention of that, and -most people who 'are new to this', as he says, err on the side of caution and drain any oil early. Could be completely wrong, but that's what I've observed here...
 

oonesojourner

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I did change the oil at the time I took the sample. The only reason I changed it was do to it being in there for a year. Changing the oil once a year means that the cost difference between dino oil and synthetic is about a dollar a month. I would like some input on this aspect of it. I am not going to get any where close to normal mileage in a year on this jeep. We drive it once a week and take it off-roading a few times a year. So obviously its setting a lot. It does see a little more time in the summer but this winter it sat for a month or two with no action.
 
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It looks like the trace of oil dropped your viscosity a tad.(See flash point as well) Some minor chemical (leaching) wear with time in engine. I doubt the accuracy of the P and Zn numbers. Other than that it appears nominal.
 
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 Originally Posted By: oonesojourner
I did change the oil at the time I took the sample. The only reason I changed it was do to it being in there for a year. Changing the oil once a year means that the cost difference between dino oil and synthetic is about a dollar a month. I would like some input on this aspect of it. I am not going to get any where close to normal mileage in a year on this jeep. We drive it once a week and take it off-roading a few times a year. So obviously its setting a lot. It does see a little more time in the summer but this winter it sat for a month or two with no action.
I wouldn't have made my comment if I had know this was a year-long run.
 
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 Originally Posted By: addyguy
I wouldn't have made my comment if I had know this was a year-long run.
Which brings up a question- Given that I have a rarely-driven car (1800 miles over the last 2 years, although 1500 miles per year has been more common over the last 10 years), and given that when I *do* drive it, it always comes to full operating temperature and almost always gets a highway run... what is a reasonable time limit on changes? The last change (RTS SL rated) got left in nearly 2 years because I lost track of time and wasn't checking my log book. I have no inherent problem with that interval (or even longer), unless you guys tell me a good reason to change it every year. Unfortunately I did that last change before I joined BITOG and got the analysis bug- I'd love to have sent in a sample of 2-year 1800 mile RTS to see how it was doing. Next time, I will. Thanks.
 
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On that regime, you could easily go 2-3 years. Patman has posted a couple of UOA's on his mom's Golf that were 2-year runs on GC, and they were fine. 'Drivebelt' posted a 2-year UOA on a mix of oils in an old Jetta, and it was also just fine.
 
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How can Blackstoned say this oil looks thin for a 10W-30, it looks more like a 5W-30? They are both 30 weights. As a matter of fact, last time I checked (sure, it was a few months ago), 5W-30 M1 was thicker at 100C than 10W-30 M1. What do they think about oils like GC 0W-30 or RTS 5W-40. Those wide number ranges and actual viscosities must absolutely daze them.
 
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It's a decent report. IMO, the Jeep 2.5L/4.0L engines I've seen here over the years aren't the best fit with Mobil 1 and your engine is not benefiting from synthetic (although perhaps your "peace of mind" is). I would run a 10W40 dino (GTX,YB, QS, whatever) and change once a year. You could probably get by with changing it every two! My last UOA's on Delo SAE30 and old GTX 10W40 Drivehard(run for 1 year) were pretty good despite my Jeep being a trail rig that sees very severe service. I really should track fuel burned instead of miles driven. ;\) If you are set on running M1, I would step up to their 10W40 HM and go to two year intervals. Good luck.
 
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Glad to see that your Tin is less than 1ppm/1,000 miles. Bearings are doing just fine and these motors just keep on plugging as long as you don't hydrolock them in a mud hole LOL! Drop your conventional oil once a year with your mileage and you should be good to go. If you are not crawling or running 36's on the pavement at 70mph a 30 grade will perform fine.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Jaymus
How can Blackstoned say this oil looks thin for a 10W-30, it looks more like a 5W-30?
I immediately assumed they have a typo and *meant* to say "... looks more like a 5w20." Which it does, actually. If I read the viscosity chart on the main page of this site right, [email protected] is right at the heavy end of the 20wt range or maybe (if you squint just right) at the low end of the 30 range.
 Originally Posted By: Jaymus
What do they think about oils like GC 0W-30 or RTS 5W-40. Those wide number ranges and actual viscosities must absolutely daze them.
On my 4.0 RTS UOA, they just said "looks fine for a 5w40."
 
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