97 Buick Park Ave with Unknown Electrical Problem

Carlostrece

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Mar 26, 2017
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Location
NW Oregon & SW Washington
My caregiver and I were at a gas station today to fill up my tank. Suddenly a strange electrical problem occurred.

It's a nice day. So we had windows partially open. Later we noticed the windows will no longer move - not up or down. Also the interior lights came on and stayed on the entire time we were driving.

The did finally shut off 5-10 min after we parked with doors closed. We had to leave the windows partway down because they won't move.

My old man neighbor thinks it's a blown fuse. I might agree if it was just the windows, but why would a blown fuse make interior lights come on and stay on?

I'm guessing it's a computer problem, but I don't know.

What are your thoughts/suggestions?
 
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When I had this problem in my Cutlass Ciera it was a broken wire in the door hinge area. Looked good externally but it broke internally, inside the insulation, and I lost power windows.

If your door latch has a switch inside of it to signal the computer that dome lights are desired, this could be affected as well. You have a computer controlling the lights as there's the 5 minute delay you noted.

For further diagnosis you can try wiggling the wiring harness while trying to get things to work; they might work briefly.

SInce power windows have a 3-way switch style of operation, you might be able to get the passenger windows to roll further down but not up by using the switches in their own doors, vice the master switch on the driver's door. The driver's wiring wears out first due to more door usage.
 
When I had this problem in my Cutlass Ciera it was a broken wire in the door hinge area. Looked good externally but it broke internally, inside the insulation, and I lost power windows.

If your door latch has a switch inside of it to signal the computer that dome lights are desired, this could be affected as well. You have a computer controlling the lights as there's the 5 minute delay you noted.

For further diagnosis you can try wiggling the wiring harness while trying to get things to work; they might work briefly.

SInce power windows have a 3-way switch style of operation, you might be able to get the passenger windows to roll further down but not up by using the switches in their own doors, vice the master switch on the driver's door. The driver's wiring wears out first due to more door usage.
The driver and front passenger door window switches don't work. I didn't try rear doors window switches.
 
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These cars have a three Door Modules that control the window motors & sends door latch signals to the Body Control Module via Class 2 Serial Data.

Check for blown fuses....Just keep in mind fuses don't blow for no reason.

Best thing after checking fuses is to use a capable scan tool to check inputs on the door modules & body module....A GM Tech 2 is the best option though a Snap-on scanner might do it.
 
OK. Well I guess I'll have my cousin check the fuses first. I'll ask him to do it because I'm handicapped. If it's not a blown fuse, then he'll drop the car off at my mechanic's/technician's shop.
 
My caregiver has a bad habit of slamming the doors much harder than necesary. Could that be a contributing factor?
This and allowing doors to swing open full tilt and be caught by the door check is the lead cause of door boot wire failures, can also damage speakers and another electrical connection in the door or a module within the door.

JEEP WJ's are notorious for this, I have fixed more than I care t count over the years. JEEP guys were also notorious for replacing their BCM by default, when in reality it was an open wire, but that open usually happens INSIDE of the wire insulation.
 
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