96-01 Lexus ES 300 Mobil 0w-40 sludge prevention?

[Art_Vandelay]

I'm shopping for a Lexus ES 300 1996-2001. The sludge prone 3.0 6cyl is my major concern. I absolutely love the car and hopefully can find a great one.

Most sludge cases seem to involve conventional oil that can't contend with the high heat stresses the 3.0 places on it. Breaking it down before it hits Toyota's recommended OCI.

Do you think Mobil 1 0w-40 would provide extra protection against sludge formation since it carries Porsche Turbo and various European Long Life approvals?

I'd still change it by the 3500-4000 mile mark given it's reputation but I certainly want the most durable oil I can find in it.

 

[tomcat27]

absolutely. any "euro" spec syn oil would help. M1 is a great choice. and, so is Amsoil Signature series. just for fun, check out their road test results on Taxi's in Vegas with the Dodge 2.7 - an engine well-known to be a sludger. you could likely go safely to 5k - which is the interval I use on my Intrepid. (with Amsoil sig series)

 

[LeakySeals]

It was the PCV design combined with the weak dino's of that era. 0w40 is a good choice, but you don't have to be that selective with the full syns today. Don't need to be that short either. 7k is ok with a syn, keep and eye on the PCV system. Clean/check it at every oil change. If you have any leaks or burn any oil, M1 HM 5w30 is a good one too. I use it at 8-10k intervals. Don't forget the filter, IMO the Toyota OE contributed. It was a flow over filtration filter. Choose a 99% efficiency filter to help keep deposits to a minimum..

 

[Art_Vandelay]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
It was the PCV design combined with the weak dino's of that era.


I can definitely see how older dinos were a contributing factor to sludge in this engine.
Is it primarily a constant high heat condition that cooks the oil and shortens its life?

If I find a good one do you think a high performance synthetic will completely protect me from ever developing sludge? Or is the 3.0 a roll of the dice no matter what?

 

[Artem]

I have Mobil 1 0w40 in my 98 Toyota Camry V6 (same 1MZ-FE engine) and it's running great! Much smoother and quieter vs 5w30 oils. I recommend it for your ES 300

 

[Art_Vandelay]

Originally Posted By: Artem
I have Mobil 1 0w40 in my 98 Toyota Camry V6 (same 1MZ-FE engine) and it's running great! Much smoother and quieter vs 5w30 oils. I recommend it for your ES 300


That's good to hear! I think it's an excellent match for that engine. Have you used it for a long time or just recently switched?
I see you have 239k on your car. Have you ever had any issues with sludge?
Is that the original transmission?

 

[hypervish]

Go with a 97' or newer as that is when they added VVT-I and a refresh.

Join Club Lexus, there is a ton of useful information over there. There are many ES300's with well over 300k miles, and one ES300 has a million miles on it.

 

[kschachn]

A major contributing factor is extreme heat in the back bank. If you ever take the exhaust off that car you will see a major difference in the condition of the mating flanges and short pipes between the front and rear. That is one hot engine in the back.

Mobil 1 5W-30 is fine although you will have no issues running 0W-40. Somewhere on BITOG are pictures I posted of my 1MZ-FE at 150,000 miles and again at 232,000 miles. The interior is pretty spotless on a diet of M1 5W-30 at 5-7K mile intervals. It can be done, it's not a roll of the dice. Clean or replace the PCV valve with every oil change. I tend to clean them for 3-4 OCIs then put in a new one.

I'm about to change out the timing belt for the third time, along with the rear valve cover gasket. I will take pictures when I do that but I don't anticipate anything horrible.

This engine is a poster child for a top quality synthetic on a relatively short OCI. I wouldn't even consider dino oil under any circumstances. Just MHO.

The good things about the engine are that it's quiet, powerful and smooth, plus nothing else breaks on it.

Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay

I can definitely see how older dinos were a contributing factor to sludge in this engine.
Is it primarily a constant high heat condition that cooks the oil and shortens its life?

If I find a good one do you think a high performance synthetic will completely protect me from ever developing sludge? Or is the 3.0 a roll of the dice no matter what?

 

[Art_Vandelay]

Originally Posted By: hypervish
Go with a 97' or newer as that is when they added VVT-I and a refresh.

Join Club Lexus, there is a ton of useful information over there. There are many ES300's with well over 300k miles, and one ES300 has a million miles on it.


Thanks for the recommendation. I've been reading through some posts on Club Lexus. Excellent site.
I'd prefer a newer VVT-i model. I also love the wood steering wheel which I believe was part of an option package on the later years (2000-2001?).

 

[hypervish]

Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
Originally Posted By: hypervish
Go with a 97' or newer as that is when they added VVT-I and a refresh.

Join Club Lexus, there is a ton of useful information over there. There are many ES300's with well over 300k miles, and one ES300 has a million miles on it.


Thanks for the recommendation. I've been reading through some posts on Club Lexus. Excellent site.
I'd prefer a newer VVT-i model. I also love the wood steering wheel which I believe was part of an option package on the later years (2000-2001?).


You're welcome!

And, it seems I made a mistake, it must have been too early when I posted my reply this morning.

Clearly I didn't proofread my reply before submitting it, but VVT-I came out on the ES300 in 99'. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[Art_Vandelay]

Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
Originally Posted By: hypervish
Go with a 97' or newer as that is when they added VVT-I and a refresh.

Join Club Lexus, there is a ton of useful information over there. There are many ES300's with well over 300k miles, and one ES300 has a million miles on it.


Thanks for the recommendation. I've been reading through some posts on Club Lexus. Excellent site.
I'd prefer a newer VVT-i model. I also love the wood steering wheel which I believe was part of an option package on the later years (2000-2001?).


You're welcome!

And, it seems I made a mistake, it must have been too early when I posted my reply this morning.

Clearly I didn't proofread my reply before submitting it, but VVT-I came out on the ES300 in 99'. Sorry for the confusion.


It's OK I was only on my first cup of coffee when I read it lol. I appreciate your input. It's always nice to gain some insight before running out and shopping.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
I absolutely love the car and hopefully can find a great one.

I have nothing constructive to add, but just wanted to note that the ES from that era is one of my favorite sedan designs, along with the LS maybe. I wish you good luck in finding a nicely kept up one. Post pics when you do.

 

[Art_Vandelay]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
A major contributing factor is extreme heat in the back bank. If you ever take the exhaust off that car you will see a major difference in the condition of the mating flanges and short pipes between the front and rear. That is one hot engine in the back.

Mobil 1 5W-30 is fine although you will have no issues running 0W-40. Somewhere on BITOG are pictures I posted of my 1MZ-FE at 150,000 miles and again at 232,000 miles. The interior is pretty spotless on a diet of M1 5W-30 at 5-7K mile intervals. It can be done, it's not a roll of the dice. Clean or replace the PCV valve with every oil change. I tend to clean them for 3-4 OCIs then put in a new one.

I'm about to change out the timing belt for the third time, along with the rear valve cover gasket. I will take pictures when I do that but I don't anticipate anything horrible.

This engine is a poster child for a top quality synthetic on a relatively short OCI. I wouldn't even consider dino oil under any circumstances. Just MHO.

The good things about the engine are that it's quiet, powerful and smooth, plus nothing else breaks on it.



I'm going to search for your pictures. I'd love to see them.

I completely agree that this engine is a short interval, synthetic, poster child if there ever was one. Toyota could have spared themselves the whole nightmare if they spec'd it Synthetic Only. With more real world testing they'd have come to that crucial conclusion. Or simply redesigned it straight away.
How long have you been running Mobil 1 5w-30 in yours?

 

[Art_Vandelay]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
I absolutely love the car and hopefully can find a great one.

I have nothing constructive to add, but just wanted to note that the ES from that era is one of my favorite sedan designs, along with the LS maybe. I wish you good luck in finding a nicely kept up one. Post pics when you do.


Thanks Pete I appreciate that. I'm going to look high and low for a great one and I'll definitely post some pics when I . find the right car.

The ES from that era is also one of my favorites. It's such a beautiful design. When a car company is lucky enough to come up with something like that, they should allow it to evolve over a much longer period of time. Like the way Porsche has with the 911. I mean they got 50 years out of that shape and it's fresher and more exciting than ever.

 

[lexus114]

Art, before you buy one make sure you or a shop pull the rear valve cover to make sure it looks alright. Some heavy varnish or a little crud Mobil-1 or PP can clear up. Anything more, beware. Also these motor`s run their best on Premium fuel.

 

[kschachn]

Here are the pictures (of the front bank) at 232,000 miles and a link to the one from 155,000 miles. I'm pretty interested to see how the back bank looks at 275,000+

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2197631#Post2197631

That looks darker than it is because the oil needed changing at the time. There is very little varnish.

It has had mostly M1 5W-30 since the first oil change. Back when GC was all the rage here in BITOG I used that for a while, but it tended to clog up the PCV valve more than M1 does. I've also used Pennzoil Ultra twice, plus a couple of OCIs on 0W-40 when I got that on sale. Oh and 5W-20 once (since the engine is back-speced to that grade) but it was noticeably noisier and I haven't used it since.

And I too use premium fuel since the compression ratio is 10.5 to 1.

Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
Originally Posted By: kschachn
A major contributing factor is extreme heat in the back bank. If you ever take the exhaust off that car you will see a major difference in the condition of the mating flanges and short pipes between the front and rear. That is one hot engine in the back.

Mobil 1 5W-30 is fine although you will have no issues running 0W-40. Somewhere on BITOG are pictures I posted of my 1MZ-FE at 150,000 miles and again at 232,000 miles. The interior is pretty spotless on a diet of M1 5W-30 at 5-7K mile intervals. It can be done, it's not a roll of the dice. Clean or replace the PCV valve with every oil change. I tend to clean them for 3-4 OCIs then put in a new one.

I'm about to change out the timing belt for the third time, along with the rear valve cover gasket. I will take pictures when I do that but I don't anticipate anything horrible.

This engine is a poster child for a top quality synthetic on a relatively short OCI. I wouldn't even consider dino oil under any circumstances. Just MHO.

The good things about the engine are that it's quiet, powerful and smooth, plus nothing else breaks on it.



I'm going to search for your pictures. I'd love to see them.

I completely agree that this engine is a short interval, synthetic, poster child if there ever was one. Toyota could have spared themselves the whole nightmare if they spec'd it Synthetic Only. With more real world testing they'd have come to that crucial conclusion. Or simply redesigned it straight away.
How long have you been running Mobil 1 5w-30 in yours?

 

[Art_Vandelay]

Originally Posted By: lexus114
Art, before you buy one make sure you or a shop pull the rear valve cover to make sure it looks alright. Some heavy varnish or a little crud Mobil-1 or PP can clear up. Anything more, beware. Also these motor`s run their best on Premium fuel.


That's the safest way to go I'm sure. The rear valve cover has to be even more expensive to remove than the front one. Is it best to look under both of them? I wouldn't be surprised if that cost over $300 to have done.

 

[lexus114]

I mentioned the rear to be more precise, but you could pull the front one to get a good idea of whats going on. Very good engines though besides that gelling issue (which can be controlled very easily with a Synthetic oil)

 

[Art_Vandelay]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Here are the pictures (of the front bank) at 232,000 miles and a link to the one from 155,000 miles. I'm pretty interested to see how the back bank looks at 275,000+

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2197631#Post2197631

That looks darker than it is because the oil needed changing at the time. There is very little varnish.

It has had mostly M1 5W-30 since the first oil change. Back when GC was all the rage here in BITOG I used that for a while, but it tended to clog up the PCV valve more than M1 does. I've also used Pennzoil Ultra twice, plus a couple of OCIs on 0W-40 when I got that on sale. Oh and 5W-20 once (since the engine is back-speced to that grade) but it was noticeably noisier and I haven't used it since.

And I too use premium fuel since the compression ratio is 10.5 to 1.



Wow your engine looks fantastic! I've looked at several photos and not one of them looks as good as yours. What a vivid demonstration of synthetic superiority. Thank you very much for linking the photos.

It's interesting that GC clogged up the PCV valve. I wonder why that would be. Maybe because it's heavier?

 

[hypervish]

+1, on running high octane fuel. I only run premium in both my RX300 and ES300.

Here's what my ES looks like under the front valve cover at around 180k miles: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...987#Post2847987