I have a '95 S10 pickup with the 4.3L V6 and 138,000 miles on it. Got the truck at 98,000 miles and have been using Castrol Syntec Blend 5W-30 at 3,000 mile oil changes. What do you think I should be using in my truck? Do you think it is too late for Synthetic (the engine runs well and doesn't burn any oil)? Thanks in advance.
'95 S-10
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JHZR2
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never too late for synthetic. that said, I have a 98 S10 with 4.3L HO v6, and in all of my research, it appears that pennzoil conventional oil does best, especially when LC is used!
Id be interested in seeing GC results, and I currently have castrol GTX start-up in there, which seems to be a very good oil. But I ahve been considering for a while now switching back to good old pennzoil!
JMH
Id be interested in seeing GC results, and I currently have castrol GTX start-up in there, which seems to be a very good oil. But I ahve been considering for a while now switching back to good old pennzoil!
JMH
Also, what do you guys think about all the high milage oil stuff?
What about switching to synthetic. There is one very very very small leak out the oil pan, will this be a problem with synthetic. Also, I see a lot of people using Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec. What do you guys think about these two? Thanks for your time.
I have an 03 S10 with the 4.3 liter V-6 which has a very small leak somewhere near the oil pan since it was new. Have been using M1 10W30 for 10k miles. I recently changed and used Valvoline Maxlife 10W30. Coincidently, the oil leak became bad enough that oil began to drip (maybe two drips/day). Whether it was the change in oils, weather, or phase of the moon I don't know.
By the way, the dealer can't find the source of the leak either after a full day and 3/4 tank of my gas trying. It now has dye in the oil to try and pin point the source.
By the way, the dealer can't find the source of the leak either after a full day and 3/4 tank of my gas trying. It now has dye in the oil to try and pin point the source.
JHZR2
Staff member
if your engine is running fine and no oil is disapearing, why pay the extra expense? IMO its mainly a band-aid for poorly maintained engines that got cheapo service early in life. That said, it is useful in some applications because it is a tad thicker (some engines like a bit thicker oil), and has syn components sometimes. I dont necessarily like the seal sweller components though, if your seals arent leaky.
For example, my father's toyota had dino oil for the first 150k. Nothing special, no HM stuff, etc. Didnt use or leak any. Why go to HM oil if it isnt necessary? We actually went over to M1 and havent looked back since (currently at 185k).
My GF's acura integra has had unknown changes through its life (she bought it used at 140k and it now has 161k). Something was done right, it doesnt use any oil or leak any oil. Why should we use HM oil? It wont do much, and so she has been using GTX since. We may change it to M1 because its a bit thinner, has moly, and can let her extend her intervals.
If your engine leaks, burns oil, etc., HM oil may be a good choice. But you dont seem to have these issues, so sqve your $$$ or go to synthetic, and save your money by extending intervals (based upon analysis, of course).
JMH
For example, my father's toyota had dino oil for the first 150k. Nothing special, no HM stuff, etc. Didnt use or leak any. Why go to HM oil if it isnt necessary? We actually went over to M1 and havent looked back since (currently at 185k).
My GF's acura integra has had unknown changes through its life (she bought it used at 140k and it now has 161k). Something was done right, it doesnt use any oil or leak any oil. Why should we use HM oil? It wont do much, and so she has been using GTX since. We may change it to M1 because its a bit thinner, has moly, and can let her extend her intervals.
If your engine leaks, burns oil, etc., HM oil may be a good choice. But you dont seem to have these issues, so sqve your $$$ or go to synthetic, and save your money by extending intervals (based upon analysis, of course).
JMH
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