91 accord burns oil...

[pseudo]

hi all, my 1991 accord started burning oil. i live in ohio and am a poor grad student. i use 10w-40 for my car and keep a big stock of it in the trunk. can someone help with this please? i need to keep my car alive for few more years. (it has 170k on it)

 

[uconn1150]

I would first wash out the engine with some AutoRX or Neutra 131 (do a search on both) and then try some 15w-40 Pennzoil LL or Bobsoil 15w-40.

 

[sbc350gearhead]

Try an auto-rx flush first and then goe from there. It might help or stop your oil consumption. Nuetra might do the trick as well, and is cheaper, but most people seem to prefer the auto-rx. Where in ohio are you from?

 

[pseudo]

i live close to cleveland ill buy autorx online rt now.. the car vibrates badly on applying brakes too...thats next i need to work on....any clues? is pennzoil 15w-40 good? or shud i use synthetic once the oil consumption drops ?

 

[digitaldrifter91]

braking and shaking is warped rotors... i own a 91 accord as well...

 

[pseudo]

is it true that it costs $200 for each rotor to be buffed?

 

[cangreylegend]

Off topic, but do not turn, buff or shave those rotors. They are already on the thin side when new. You are much better off replacing them with new rotors from an aftermarket source and don't have them shaved, turned or "buffed" before installation. You don't need exotic performance brands either. Good cheap imported (chinese) rotors are a luck of the draw when you get em, they'll last. Make sure your calipers are not seized and causing your brakes to drag and overheat first.

 

[JohnBrowning]

You do not buff rotors. The term is "turn the rotors" they have to cut material off of the rotor to elimanate warpage. It is usualy $9-$20 dollars to have this done. It is usualy cheaper to just buy two new rotors from Napa or CarQuest for $14-$28 per rotor and a set of pads most private garages!

 

[tgharch]

Have you tried changing the PCV valve? Hondas for some reason are very hard on their PCV valves and when they fail, oil consumption will increase dramatically. My '88 Accord started using oil at an alarming rate (about 1 qt. per 800 miles, sometimes worse). Upon the advice of various Honda websites, I replaced the PCV valve (it had failed) and oil consumption returned to normal. [ September 25, 2003, 05:54 PM: Message edited by: tgharch ]

 

[sbc350gearhead]

I am not a big believer in turned rotors. I have had machine shops botch the job. Most rotors are fairly cheap. I would not use a 15w40 in the winter in cleveland.

 

[Drew99GT]

I would not use synthetic oil in your Accord at this point, considering your financial situation etc. and the oil consumption. I'd do everything else that people have suggested, and use 15w-40 Pennzoil LongLife for summer, and regular 10w-30 for winter and you should get many more years from your vehicle. As far as rotors, depending on how many times they've been turned in the past, they may just get warped again in 2,000 miles if they are right on the borderline of needing to be replaced (per stated minumum thickness), which will turn out cheaper in the long run.

 

[HOndaGuy]

why not a high mileage oil like maxlife, pennzoil hm, or castrol hm? they all have esters in them that will reduce oil consumption.

 

[Drew99GT]

quote:

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Originally posted by HOndaGuy: why not a high mileage oil like maxlife, pennzoil hm, or castrol hm? they all have esters in them that will reduce oil consumption.

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Doh, I should of stated that as well. 10w-30 HM oils are usually right in between a regular 10w-30 and 10w-40. Regular 10w-40 will shear down to below the viscosity of 10w-30 High mileage, so maybe that would be your best bet.

 

[Robbie Alexander]

quote:

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Originally posted by pseudo: hi all, my 1991 accord started burning oil. i live in ohio and am a poor grad student. i use 10w-40 for my car and keep a big stock of it in the trunk. can someone help with this please? i need to keep my car alive for few more years. (it has 170k on it)

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More info please. '91, how many miles?170K>?? anything ever been replaced?????? Are you sure it's burning and not leaking through a valve cover or hose or seal (rear/front)? When is the last time you had a major Tune-up? If it just started, there may be other problems to address... I'd check for wet areas first, then if dry all over (pan,Valve cover ,etc) consider bumping up your oil. Sometimes or a lot of times, you go from an old car with hard seals and gaskets and you put Synthetic in there you can start a real big leak. How many miles (not years) do you plan on keeping the car?

 

[CJH]

quote:

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Originally posted by sbc350gearhead: I would not use a 15w40 in the winter in cleveland.

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Neither would I. I would use Shell Rotella T 5W40 full synthetic!