89 Plymouth Acclaim LX 3.0L oil choice

[[email protected]]

About a month ago, off ebay, I bought an 1989 Plymouth Acclaim LX with the 3.0L engine and 68,000 original miles. The engine doesnt smoke (burn oil) which is very unusual for that vintage! I want to try to keep the valve seals and valvetrain in the best possible condition so it doesnt start burning oil and give the engine great protection at the same time.

Heres the catch:
The car sat for 3-4 years. Only started occasionally. I changed the oil before I even started it and refilled with Wal-marts house brand 5w-30 and an supertech oil filter. The old oil really wasnt that dirty by visual inspection. It was still semi-clear, with a light brown tint.
The reason I used walmart brand is I didnt want to put a high end oil in it right away, wanted to "clean it out" and let the cheap stuff catch all of the ----. Who knows what condensation formed in there over 3-4 years of sitting!

What do you folks recommend for a 1989 3.0L chrysler motor with 68,000 miles on it? Funny the owners manual recommends 10w-30, but 5w-30 "may be used". lol. You dont see that anymore!

Would motorcraft semi-syn 5w-30 be a good choice? Since this is my 2nd vehicle, I want to keep the oil changes semi-reasonable in price (under $20 DIY). Any advice?

 

[surfstar]

Okay, I'll start the ML flag waving...

Maxlife 5/10w30 in the 5qt jug from sprawl-mart. Great oil. Great price. Supertech/Purolator/WIX/etc filter, whichever you prefer, or is on sale.

 

[XPR]

Spend the money and get a decent oil such as Amsoil.

 

[Rodbuckler]

Syntec Blend 5W-30 winter
Rotella T 10W-30 summer

 

[[email protected]]

Ok thanks for the replies gus. Do you currently have or in the past, owned a Chrysler 3.0L engine? Or are you speaking just because on the reputation of the oil?

 

[Camu Mahubah]

I am not a big fan of Supertech unless it the Exxon Mobil made stuff...but I understand why you used it...not a bad idea...Go with whatever name brand dino is on sale and shorter oci's...I think Maxlife Synthetic Blend is a good choice, just a little expensive for short oci's...If it were me I would change oil once a month no matter the mileage for the first two months...actually changing the filter once a month and topping off might be cheaper...I know the filter is easy to get to on these cars...When you are ready and you feel the engine is sorta flushed...Switch to Maxlife or another brand name high mileage oil that you like... Also this stuff might be worth a look...Amsoil Engine flush...looks pretty simple to use all you need is two oil filters and enough oil to refill your crankcase after the flush...

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aef.aspx?zo=515729

 

[[email protected]]

What about Trop Artic semi syn or Motorcraft semi syn?

Should I use 10w-30 or 5w-30? The manual says 10w-30 (remember its an 1989 model year vehicle) but 5w-30 "may be used" in cold climates.

 

[jazztrumpet216]

Quote:

---

Ok thanks for the replies gus. Do you currently have or in the past, owned a Chrysler 3.0L engine? Or are you speaking just because on the reputation of the oil?

---

I have a 1992 3.0 with almost 215,000 miles on it right now. It does use a bit of oil, but it will usually use no oil for about 1000-1300 miles and then gobble up a quart in about 200-300. Then it's fine for awhile again. The engine still runs like clockwork and has plenty of zip, even hauling around a big old minivan. The little ricers trying to get around me on the local onramps often get to smell my oily exhaust fumes 'cause they picked on the wrong guy.

I would think about a timing belt change if this is going to be a daily driver. If the car is original, that belt is 18 years old.

My 3.0 has returned excellent UOAs on Valvoline Durablend and Valvoline Maxlife Blend. Those are two oils which I would highly recommend for this motor. I have had success with Bosch Premium filters from Autozone (made by Purolator) as well as Napa Gold (made by WIX). FWIW, if you want some extra oil capacity, bump up to the Napa 1068 (same as Fram PH43) or Napa 1515 (same as Fram PH8A).

 

[Camu Mahubah]

Quote:

---

What about Trop Artic semi syn or Motorcraft semi syn?

Should I use 10w-30 or 5w-30? The manual says 10w-30 (remember its an 1989 model year vehicle) but 5w-30 "may be used" in cold climates.

---

Trop-Artic and Motorcraft are good oils...I would go 10w30 Summer...5w30 Winter...it gets a bit nippy in Michigian...Also father-in-law had the mitsu built 3.0 in a minivan...peppy...this motor did not use oil...well maybe a half-quart over 3000 miles...It ran forever on Quaker State conventiional 10w40 and fram filters...I can't remember why he sold it...I'll ask...

 

[[email protected]]

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Ok thanks for the replies gus. Do you currently have or in the past, owned a Chrysler 3.0L engine? Or are you speaking just because on the reputation of the oil?

---

I have a 1992 3.0 with almost 215,000 miles on it right now. It does use a bit of oil, but it will usually use no oil for about 1000-1300 miles and then gobble up a quart in about 200-300. Then it's fine for awhile again. The engine still runs like clockwork and has plenty of zip, even hauling around a big old minivan. The little ricers trying to get around me on the local onramps often get to smell my oily exhaust fumes 'cause they picked on the wrong guy.

I would think about a timing belt change if this is going to be a daily driver. If the car is original, that belt is 18 years old.

My 3.0 has returned excellent UOAs on Valvoline Durablend and Valvoline Maxlife Blend. Those are two oils which I would highly recommend for this motor. I have had success with Bosch Premium filters from Autozone (made by Purolator) as well as Napa Gold (made by WIX). FWIW, if you want some extra oil capacity, bump up to the Napa 1068 (same as Fram PH43) or Napa 1515 (same as Fram PH8A).

---

Thanks for the info, especially on the oil filters. I do plan on using Purolators (always on sale at Pep Boys!). I also use Purolator premiums in my Envoy and my boat.

What weight oil do you use? I put Walmart 5w-30 and my oil pressure seems slightly low, compared to other 3.0L engines Ive had in the past. I think I always used 10w-30 in my other 3.0l's, explaining the higher oil pressure.

 

[[email protected]]

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

What about Trop Artic semi syn or Motorcraft semi syn?

Should I use 10w-30 or 5w-30? The manual says 10w-30 (remember its an 1989 model year vehicle) but 5w-30 "may be used" in cold climates.

---

Trop-Artic and Motorcraft are good oils...I would go 10w30 Summer...5w30 Winter...it gets a bit nippy in Michigian...Also father-in-law had the mitsu built 3.0 in a minivan...peppy...this motor did not use oil...well maybe a half-quart over 3000 miles...It ran forever on Quaker State conventiional 10w40 and fram filters...I can't remember why he sold it...I'll ask...

---

My local wal mart has both motorcraft and trop artic for $2.46/qt. Additionally, I use motorcraft semi-syn in my Envoy. I guess since we are still hanging on to the last shreds of summer here in Michigan, I will change the oil and use Motorcraft semi-syn 10w-30. Then, next oil chance (November presumably) I will use motorcraft semi-syn 5w-30 in preparation for winter. Sound good?

 

[surfstar]

Since you shop Pep Boys, they have a rebate for Maxlife right now - $1/qt. Try some 5w30 and see if your new ride likes it.

 

[[email protected]]

Quote:

---

Since you shop Pep Boys, they have a rebate for Maxlife right now - $1/qt. Try some 5w30 and see if your new ride likes it.

---

What are the benefits to using maxlife? if its for seals, the previous owner just had the oil pan replaced (it rusted out) so it has recently been sealed. Also I replaced the valve cover gaskets. Are there any other benefits to using maxlife?

 

[Rodbuckler]

I gave a recommendation based on all the criteria you gave in your original post, and your location. It would seem to me that using an excellent engine oil(s) that will keep the engine clean is your first priority (at OCI).

 

[racer12306]

We had a 92 Acclaim with the 3.0 in it. I had dealer oil changes up until ~60000, then it had SuperTech 5w30 and a Fram PH16 every 3000 miles up until 186K miles. Only used about a half a qt in 3000. Probably one of the most reliable cars my family ever had.

The big key on those engines is to pull the heads off every 80kish miles, or maybe its 60kish miles. Some people may not have a problem with them, but we did that (can't remember exactly what all was done in that time) and it never leaked or used any significant amount of oil.

 

[Gary Allan]

My original 92 3.0 didn't use oil up to about 3k ..then sorta drank it. When it used the 2nd or 3rd make up quart I changed it out.

Your longer term worries might be the valve guide issues that some ran into in the pre-93 (IIRC) heads. I don't know if it effected all years.

I'd consider doing an Auto-Rx treatment just to assure that the internals are clean. This has sat for 4 years ..but still didn't have much mileage on it for the remaining 14 years of prior service.

Beyond that, use whatever you want ...in whatever weight you want. 5w-20 works well in this engine ...as does 15w-40 or 20w-50.

Although I never admired the funky way they did some stuff on this engine, it proved to be one of the more durable and reliable engines that I've ever owned.

 

[rshaw125]

I have the 3.0 in my van (180,000 miles). Valvoline Maxlife - it loves it. Valvoline has a rebate now where it works out $1 a quart.I hope to use different family members to stock up to at least 3 cases. I buy Purolator filters when they're BOGO.

 

[FrozenPilot]

It's been nearly 10 years since I touched one of those Mitsubishi built 3.0s. What a great engine it was! My dad had an '88 Dynasty with one, mated to the old 3 spd auto, another bulletproof piece. He got 145k out of it before he sold it. You can always tell if an older Chrysler had a 3.0 by the tell-tale blue smoke when they accelerated from a stop. Besides the valve guides, he had to replace a couple gaskets, including the head gasket once (oil in the coolant caused the temps to climb at idle, as well as no cabin heat!).

He had a '93 with a 3.3 that didn't make it quite so far before the rocker tower broke. But a '98 3.3L ran brand new when he sold it this year at around 140k.

 

[Nickdfresh]

Any SM/SL rated 10W-30 will take you as far as you wanna go. I'd use the heavier weighted oil in an older engine, and even consider using 15W-40 in the hotter months...

 

[Camu Mahubah]

I agree with Gary Allan these motors are funky...A little story...at the same time my father-in-law owned the Voyager...I was working at a qwikie lube(something I am not proud of, but it brought me to bitog)...Remember the Dodge Stealth and Mitsu VR3000....I couldn't believe myself...but guess what motor they had?...I was surprised the first time I popped the hood...I thought this "sports car" was rear-wheel drive...Negative it was based on a front-driver though some were all-wheel drive...Gary Allan is correct in the uncanny reliability of these motors...they kinda have personality...One thing I remember about this V6, it was spunky, torquey...I liked it so much...I wondered what the turbo 3000VR GT would be like...I am sure it was a hoot!...