6L80E Fresh rebuild and already failed

[clinebarger]

Do you still have the AFM functioning? What converter are you running?

I see you had a 1st design Stator, Didn't realize &/or wouldn't have guessed that as these are so bad about eating pumps via converter failure.....

1st design Stators do not use Quad/Support O-rings, However.....Aftermarket 1st design sealing rings DO NOT work/leak & I've even had issues with OE replacement rings leaking & failing an air test.

When dealing with a 1st design Stator......
*Air check the 1234/35R Drum with the original rings, Note if it passes/Has good sealing.
*Install GM part# 24248581 kit (Comes with 1st & 2nd design sealing rings & 2nd design Quad Rings).
*Air check the drum again......
*If it fails, You have 2 options.....Reinstall the original rings (IF they passed a air test) or update the Stator to a 2nd design, I keep all the 2nd design Stators off bad pumps so I can just replace the Stator to Pump Cover gasket thus updating a 1st design Pump Cover to a 2nd design for only a few dollars.

I DO NOT like reusing the sealing rings, But it's a far better option than shipping a unit with crossleaks??!! Thankfully it's been awhile since I've had to do this.

Don't want to blast the shop you used, They probably had the best of intensions replacing those rings with the ones included in the overhaul kit. As to WHY they don't know this is beyond me because this unit has been around a long time now.

You did the right thing by updating the Pump Cover!!

 

[zzyzzx]

A poor cleaning of the case covered up with silver spray paint was less than I expected.

This is why I don't use rebuilt parts any more.

 

[Jim_Truett]

Do you still have the AFM functioning? What converter are you running?

I see you had a 1st design Stator, Didn't realize &/or wouldn't have guessed that as these are so bad about eating pumps via converter failure.....

This unit went 203k on the original assembly. There is only very minor scoring in the pump area of the cover and bell housing. The previous owner went on long trips and did reasonable maintenance. Fortunately this unit never had AFM. I am running a quality reman single disc converter at stock stall. I’m just looking for good shift quality and component life, and I don’t want or need the programming in place that reduces NVH or adds +.1 mpg at the cost of longevity.

 

[clinebarger]

I recommend increasing the aggressiveness of the TCC Apply Ramp Pressure Adder vs Slip Error, Increasing Max TCC Pressure, And Zero'ing out ALL Desired TCC Slip Tables.

I don't know what you know about HPtuners, So forgive the overly simplistic tutorial if you already know some of this.




*Open the TCC Apply Ramp table.
*Highlight everything right of the ZERO.
*Enter 1.50 in the box next to the PSI.
*Hit Multiply, This will increase all the selected pressure cells by 50%
*Highlight all the cells from 5 RPM to 130 RPM (Slip Error).
*Enter 10 in the box.
*Hit Add, This will add 10 PSI to all the selected pressure cells.
*Hit the 3D chart icon.
*There will be a dip in the ramp.
*Starting from the Left Rear......Smooth the ramp out manually.

 

[clinebarger]

Increase TCC Max Pressure by 10 psi.

 

[clinebarger]

Zero out all the table within the square. This is a 2008 Corvette calibration & they're all Zeroed out from the factory.

 

[Jim_Truett]

I recommend increasing the aggressiveness of the TCC Apply Ramp Pressure Adder vs Slip Error, Increasing Max TCC Pressure, And Zero'ing out ALL Desired TCC Slip Tables.

I don't know what you know about HPtuners, So forgive the overly simplistic tutorial if you already know some of this.

Regardless of what I know anout HP Tuners, I really appreciate you taking the time to lay it out in a foolproof manner for anyone to follow. That took time, and I am really thankful for it.

Previously I reduced the TCC Desired Slip tables and used Regulator Gain to increase pressure. Your method is as effective at controlling slip if not more so. It also provides a smoother transition to TCC lockup in my testing so far.