6.5 hp B&S uses oil
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It's usually caused by being over filled or on to steep a slope.
I used M1 TDT 5w-40 in my 6HP B&S to address this problem, it worked wonders. The engine still smoked a bit on cold start up but the oil level hardly moved at all.
I dumped that mower and have a Honda now though, got sick of carb problems with the B&S.
I dumped that mower and have a Honda now though, got sick of carb problems with the B&S.
FB, not really, None of my engines smoke or use any oil? I think they are great engines.
Mine puffs white smoke at startup if I push the primer bulb too many times (twice instead of once). Wouldn't the smoke be blue if it was oil burning? You may be running rich for some reason if it's persistant smoke.
Mine does use oil, but only if I use lighter grades....so much that I have to top it up once or twice a season to keep it away from the 'ADD' line. It doesn't produce any smoke once it's up and running though. A bottle of 20W-50 syn cured the consumption.
Mine does use oil, but only if I use lighter grades....so much that I have to top it up once or twice a season to keep it away from the 'ADD' line. It doesn't produce any smoke once it's up and running though. A bottle of 20W-50 syn cured the consumption.
Originally Posted By: SL2
FB, not really, None of my engines smoke or use any oil? I think they are great engines.
I kinda wondered if he was joking, or ever tore small engines down. Did he understand the point Tpitcher was making?
What specifically does he see wrong with B & S? If you take them apart and have a beef with engineering and or construction I would like to hear why, and learn from it. IF all you do is change spark plugs and spray carb cleaner, and repeat a stereotype, we don't learn much. Honda's are wonderfully engineered, have tight tolerances and great compression....but there is a legitimate argument the B & S have been just as durable in the hot, dirty environment that small engines operate. (for less money) I have Honda's, B & S, Tecumsehs, Lawn Boy, and a Jiang Dong on small equipment. My biggest beef is with some carb designs, not the engines.
I am curious if the new Briggs aluminum alloy Cool Bore will hold up without a sleeve. Is it really new technology, or a cheaper way out. Only time will tell
FB, not really, None of my engines smoke or use any oil? I think they are great engines.
I kinda wondered if he was joking, or ever tore small engines down. Did he understand the point Tpitcher was making?
What specifically does he see wrong with B & S? If you take them apart and have a beef with engineering and or construction I would like to hear why, and learn from it. IF all you do is change spark plugs and spray carb cleaner, and repeat a stereotype, we don't learn much. Honda's are wonderfully engineered, have tight tolerances and great compression....but there is a legitimate argument the B & S have been just as durable in the hot, dirty environment that small engines operate. (for less money) I have Honda's, B & S, Tecumsehs, Lawn Boy, and a Jiang Dong on small equipment. My biggest beef is with some carb designs, not the engines.
I am curious if the new Briggs aluminum alloy Cool Bore will hold up without a sleeve. Is it really new technology, or a cheaper way out. Only time will tell
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I was told that any B&S engine with a "0.5" rating ie 6.5 HP uses bottom drawer parts.
Too bad.
The B&S Vanguard Series engines are really Dhaitsu Japanese Commercial Engines with liners and 4 mains etc...they are as good as a Kawasaki and Honda and Robbins.
Actually the Tec engines seem to hold there own....but fewer in production.
Too bad.
The B&S Vanguard Series engines are really Dhaitsu Japanese Commercial Engines with liners and 4 mains etc...they are as good as a Kawasaki and Honda and Robbins.
Actually the Tec engines seem to hold there own....but fewer in production.
I love a motor that turns off the spark and spins down from full throttle, sucking in gas until it comes to a halt.
It saves them a few bucks per engine, and they sell more that way. Unfortunately wear is much higher this way, and I suspect it may be the cause of smoking for some people.
I have 2 Toro personal pace mowers, the 2 year old one has significant cylinder wear, and my new (1 month old) one appears to have a bum engine. Even the girlfriend asked me what that knocking sound was. both of these use the B&S 6.75 hp motor.
I put a string on the throttle rod to manually idle it down and starve if of fuel. Its still a [censored] (cheapo) motor, but maybe it'll last a few months longer. MADE IN MEXICO, WOOHOO !
i guess I cant [censored]. After all Im the one that chose not to spend more on a quality product.
Do the Germans export push mowers? They seem to have a lower tolerance for poorly engineered and manufactured products than "unsophisticated" Americans. Havent seen many Chryslers in Germany, except the occasional political cartoon.
It saves them a few bucks per engine, and they sell more that way. Unfortunately wear is much higher this way, and I suspect it may be the cause of smoking for some people.
I have 2 Toro personal pace mowers, the 2 year old one has significant cylinder wear, and my new (1 month old) one appears to have a bum engine. Even the girlfriend asked me what that knocking sound was. both of these use the B&S 6.75 hp motor.
I put a string on the throttle rod to manually idle it down and starve if of fuel. Its still a [censored] (cheapo) motor, but maybe it'll last a few months longer. MADE IN MEXICO, WOOHOO !
i guess I cant [censored]. After all Im the one that chose not to spend more on a quality product.
Do the Germans export push mowers? They seem to have a lower tolerance for poorly engineered and manufactured products than "unsophisticated" Americans. Havent seen many Chryslers in Germany, except the occasional political cartoon.
Some mowers are now using Kawasaki engines which I believe have a iron liner.
Honda, at least the ones on most mowers, run on an aluminum cylinder bore as well. They may likely do a better job of engineering and building those engines than B&S, I'm sure.
Honda, at least the ones on most mowers, run on an aluminum cylinder bore as well. They may likely do a better job of engineering and building those engines than B&S, I'm sure.
Originally Posted By: Pete591
I was told that any B&S engine with a "0.5" rating ie 6.5 HP uses bottom drawer parts.
Aww... Kind of makes me mad. I love the 17.5 horsepower Briggs and Stratton in my Craftsman lawnmower. It's nearly 5 years old, mows A LOT every summer. Some nasty stuff, too, and LOTS of hills. Lots of acres add up each time, too. It has no oil consumption problems IF I use the right oil. (GC 0W-30 or RTS 5W-40). And is one [censored] of a powerful engine.
I hope it lasts another 15 years.
I was told that any B&S engine with a "0.5" rating ie 6.5 HP uses bottom drawer parts.
Aww... Kind of makes me mad. I love the 17.5 horsepower Briggs and Stratton in my Craftsman lawnmower. It's nearly 5 years old, mows A LOT every summer. Some nasty stuff, too, and LOTS of hills. Lots of acres add up each time, too. It has no oil consumption problems IF I use the right oil. (GC 0W-30 or RTS 5W-40). And is one [censored] of a powerful engine.
I hope it lasts another 15 years.
B&S motors are about as tough as they come.I never have any trouble with them.
Originally Posted By: Pete591
I was told that any B&S engine with a "0.5" rating ie 6.5 HP uses bottom drawer parts.
What about the 6.75 HP B&S? Is that any different in terms of reliability? How is it different from the 6.5 one?
I was told that any B&S engine with a "0.5" rating ie 6.5 HP uses bottom drawer parts.
What about the 6.75 HP B&S? Is that any different in terms of reliability? How is it different from the 6.5 one?
I have a 7hp B&S INTEK on my my snapper. Very powerful, burns no oil, 1st pull cold start. Sometimes takes 3 pulls if hot and I try to restart it right away. Almost 6 years old now. No complaints. Just change the oil once or twice a season. Every spring change spark plug and air filter, sharpen blade.
My salesman said that the model I have has a iron cylinder liner, but not all the INTEKS did.
My salesman said that the model I have has a iron cylinder liner, but not all the INTEKS did.
My Intek (I'm the OP) is 11 years old and still runs great. It has started on the 1st or 2nd pull since new and it owes me nothing. I'm just hoping that the A-RX and keeping the oil level between the ADD and FULL (as opposed to at FULL or over) cures the smoking. Sometimes there is a light 'misting' of oil on the self-drive housing (which is opposite the muffler opening). Maybe the rings are sticking a little hence the A-RX treatment.
I'll let you guys know if it works.
I'll let you guys know if it works.
My mom's Toro with a 6.5 Briggs motor was puffing some smoke, more than the normal 1st start of the season. I did not change the oil for about 5 years. Changed the oil and added Auto-RX and it did take care of the problem after running it awhile.
I am really happy with my 8 year old 6.5 B&S; runs like top. It does burn oil if I use multi vis, but nothing on straight 30 wt (as the manual states). The deck will rust thru long before the engine gives up the ghost.
The only real problem I've had with it was last season with a leak through the gas tank seam. The sealant must have dried up over the winter as I store the mower free of fuel. Can't complain, B&S sent me a replacement free of charge.
The only real problem I've had with it was last season with a leak through the gas tank seam. The sealant must have dried up over the winter as I store the mower free of fuel. Can't complain, B&S sent me a replacement free of charge.
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