6.0L PSD- Choose my Oil for these circumstances!

[fishintheobx]

Seems to be quite a bit of oil knowledge on this board and I know I'm probably another guy looking for a recommendation, but would love to hear some feedback. I have really been stuck between the Valvoline Premium Blue Synthetic and the Schaeffers 9000 synthetic; given all the good reviews I've read about them. With all the concerns around oil cooling, HPOP, stiction, and other behaviors in the 6.0, I want to make the best choice. Seems that folks on this board know the specs and what they mean, better than I do. This truck is fairly new to me, and needs to last. If things go my way, my 4 year old will get her driver's license in this beast someday.

Vehicle
2005 Ford Excursion 4x4 w/ 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel
117k miles - former owner religiously maintained by dealer
No leaks or past warranty recalls around EGR, oil cooler, etc.

Driving Style & Environment
Primarily Southeast U.S. (North Carolina to Florida) - rarely sees freezing, but lots of heat.
No idle periods over 3 mins. - 1 minute to warm-up, 1 minute to cool-down
90% highway / 10% city
150 miles on Monday, 150 miles on Friday (often sits at airport in covered parking weekly)
3-4 1000 mile roundtrip vacations per year, often while towing 7k lb. boat.

Given my high heat driving, I am leaning toward the 15w-40 grades. Please let me know your thoughts and recommendations on an oil, especially if you have experience with them in the 6.0. Thanks!

 

[dnewton3]

You're stated driving pattern is about as healthy and desirable as one can find. Your environment is very temperate; cold is not an issue. In short, you're going to be about as easy on the oil as one can get.

If you're going to be doing your OCIs at the normal OEM limits, then you'll not have any reasonable use for synthetics at all. Please don't waste your money on high-end fluids if you have no desire or ability to capitalize on the investment. Synthetics generally show excellent advantages when the oil changes are greatly extended. If not, they do no better than conventional oils. There are thousands of UOAs to show this, here and at other sites.

The things that are likely to cause issues in your 6.0L PSD are not oil related. The EGR system is known to have issus; the turbos occasionally coke up and stick; the FPRV and such will leak; the head bolts may stretch and allow gasket leaks (much more common on "tuned" engines), etc. It's good that you have no leaks or warranty claims thus far, but the 6.0 (often jokingly referred to as the sick-point-oh) simply destroyed Ford's otherwise great reputation for diesel trucks.

The 6.0L is also known to shear oil down; a 15w-40 will become a 30 grade often. However, that seems to be the "preferred" viscosity of the HEUI system, because folks that feed the engine a 10w-30 HDEO, don't see any shearing to speak of whatsoever. While not the first choice of most diesel owners, there are some good UOAs (including one I posted from my neighbor's 6.0L PSD) that show 10w-30 is very capable, even out ot 7.5k miles.

Given your operating pattern, and the presumption that you'll not significantly extend your OCIs, I'd suggest any quanity dino oil you find on sale; pick from any of the great brands out there like Rotella, Delvac, Delo, Tection Extra, VPB, etc. You can choose whichever grade seems to tickle your fancy; both 10w-30 and 15w-40 will have shown excellent results.

 

[fishintheobx]

Thanks for the great feedback... Granted the truck has some miles on it, but it's not going to see excessive driving in the future. The 6.0 definitely has a reputation, but everyone I know that has over 250k miles the owner has been on-top of and even doubled the maintenance schedule. This truck will never get tuned, and at the most may see a 4" Turbo-back exhaust. My 120 mile run on Monday at 65 mph on cruise gave me 20.4 mpg...so I'm not messing with the thing at all.

I'll likely stick with the 15w-40, just because that is what the manual calls for, and change every 5k miles. I figure every 10k while I'm doing oil and fuel filter change I'll get a UOI just to make sure my oil choice is holding up and no coolant or fuel is showing up in the oil.

I really want to steer clear of any "Stiction" issues as described here: Alliant Power Stiction Discussion

 

[mobilaltima]

just make sure to use the OEM Motorcraft filter,(FL-2016) good filter and its the only filter that properly closes the drainback valve in the oil filter housing. 20 bucks at walmart. good, clean oil is extremely vital in a 6.0 as 4 out of the total 15 quarts of oil are dedicated to running the injection system. a quality 15W40 and 5k oci and it should last a long time. biggest problems are weak head bolts and EGR coolers,an ARP head stud kit and a EGR delete kit can fix all that. theyre still capable of blowing gaskets without any modifications, even in stock form. just giving a heads up.

 

[FiremarshalRob]

Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
biggest problems are weak head bolts and EGR coolers,an ARP head stud kit and a EGR delete kit can fix all that. theyre still capable of blowing gaskets without any modifications, even in stock form. just giving a heads up.

Yep. What he said. Just ask me how I know.

 

[mobilaltima]

i see youre from baton rouge, firemarshalrob. youve had youre fair share of problems with a 6.0?

 

[Nickdfresh]

Someone posted in another thread that Ford has a Tech Bulletin recommending synthetic 5W-40 for these engines due to cold start issues...

 

[roadrunner1]

The bulliten mentioned now allows 5w-40 to be used, no recommendation. When this engine was released in '03 until its final year offered in the super duty in '07 5w-40 was just coming into its own so to speak.

There is nothing wrong with a 5w-40, but for the most part you can use a 10w-30 for half the price and get the same results.
I've been using 10w-30 year aroound for the past 42,xxxmi., year and a half. Every UOA has been a carbon copy of the previous one, great results.

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
The bulliten mentioned now allows 5w-40 to be used, no recommendation. When this engine was released in '03 until its final year offered in the super duty in '07 5w-40 was just coming into its own so to speak.

There is nothing wrong with a 5w-40, but for the most part you can use a 10w-30 for half the price and get the same results.
I've been using 10w-30 year aroound for the past 42,xxxmi., year and a half. Every UOA has been a carbon copy of the previous one, great results.



Well, sir, you're letting facts and UOA data get in the way of perfectly good mythology and rhetoric. How dare you use common sense and real-world experience to prove how viable your approach can be?

Your application for the BITOG "itchy wrench, synthetic junkie" frequent OCI card is hereby revoked.

 

[roadrunner1]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
The bulliten mentioned now allows 5w-40 to be used, no recommendation. When this engine was released in '03 until its final year offered in the super duty in '07 5w-40 was just coming into its own so to speak.

There is nothing wrong with a 5w-40, but for the most part you can use a 10w-30 for half the price and get the same results.
I've been using 10w-30 year aroound for the past 42,xxxmi., year and a half. Every UOA has been a carbon copy of the previous one, great results.



Well, sir, you're letting facts and UOA data get in the way of perfectly good mythology and rhetoric. How dare you use common sense and real-world experience to prove how viable your approach can be?

Your application for the BITOG "itchy wrench, synthetic junkie" frequent OCI card is hereby revoked.

I would have replied sooner but, after reading your post,I've spent the last hour trying to clean-up orange juice off of my keyboard that came out of my nostriles from laughing so hard.

Classic post to say the least.

To add to my previous post, I am amazed at the people I know, or the posts I read, that under the impression that synthetic oil is "needed", espically in this (6.0) engine. The 6.0 has a reputation as a "bad egg", and I know there are several members here that have had bad experiences with them. I on the other hand am on my second one with a combined 250,000mi., trouble free. I follow the owners manual on OC's (7,500mi.) intervals, and only a couple of minor issues covered under warrenty. 10w-30 works very well for me, towing, and hauling up to 4,000# in the bed.

 

[bullwinkle]

If you steered clear of the early ones ('03 pickups, '04 everything) your luck should have been better. I know Ford had improved head gaskets by '06 (when they did my van) and they must have slightly better EGR coolers now too. Just be advised that the 6.0 is probably the most complicated, hard to work on diesel engine ever put in a light truck-and that most Ford dealerships will know LESS THAN YOU about it if it breaks!!

 

[The motor guy]

Make sure you romp on it occasionally to blow the carbon out. This will keep the veins in the turbo charger moving freely.

 

[dnewton3]

Even though a bit off topic, my "experience" with the 6.0PSD has ben via my nextdoor neighbor. He's had a few issues with his, but probably the most distrubing was having his turbo replaced. I will say, however, that I believe INACTIVITY was the root cause. He was laid off, parked the truck and never drove it for about 3 months. The gunk in the turbo "congealed" (for a lack of a better concept) from sitting idle, and then when he went to drive it again, the turbo vanes would stick and give him over/underboost error codes. Turbo was replaced under extended warranty; problem solved.

People that drive the trucks often, and get them up to temp, have fewer issues, (especially when kept stock). Still - we must acknowledge that the 6.0PSD is trouble prone overall for some people, and even though it's issues are exaggerated at times, they are still present. EGR issues, head bolts, etc are simply known to be the Achilles heel, among other things. And how many versions of the injector flash did some people go through? Seems like every year, they were "updating" the flash to deal with the stiction issue. Remeber the flash that made the injectors "buzz" for 30 seconds after shutdown? How bizzare was that? When they run right, they are great engines. When they don't; they frustrate - too often, unfortunately.

My "ultimate" dream truck? I'd take the Dmax/Ally out of my Chevy and put it in a Ford Chassis!
I know - pure heresy ...

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
... Just be advised that the 6.0 is probably the most complicated, hard to work on diesel engine ever put in a light truck-and that most Ford dealerships will know LESS THAN YOU about it if it breaks!!


That's probably not true now. Have you really looked at the new 6.7 PSD? Talk about stuff hanging off of, onto, around, on top and under! Dual coolant systems. An EGR unit that weighs 26 lbs! On the upside, it seems to be a pretty good running diesel (so far). But woe unto the man that has to crack that thing open.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: fishintheobx
Seems to be quite a bit of oil knowledge on this board and I know I'm probably another guy looking for a recommendation, but would love to hear some feedback. I have really been stuck between the Valvoline Premium Blue Synthetic and the Schaeffers 9000 synthetic; given all the good reviews I've read about them. With all the concerns around oil cooling, HPOP, stiction, and other behaviors in the 6.0, I want to make the best choice. Seems that folks on this board know the specs and what they mean, better than I do. This truck is fairly new to me, and needs to last. If things go my way, my 4 year old will get her driver's license in this beast someday.

Vehicle
2005 Ford Excursion 4x4 w/ 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel
117k miles - former owner religiously maintained by dealer
No leaks or past warranty recalls around EGR, oil cooler, etc.

Driving Style & Environment
Primarily Southeast U.S. (North Carolina to Florida) - rarely sees freezing, but lots of heat.
No idle periods over 3 mins. - 1 minute to warm-up, 1 minute to cool-down
90% highway / 10% city
150 miles on Monday, 150 miles on Friday (often sits at airport in covered parking weekly)
3-4 1000 mile roundtrip vacations per year, often while towing 7k lb. boat.

Given my high heat driving, I am leaning toward the 15w-40 grades. Please let me know your thoughts and recommendations on an oil, especially if you have experience with them in the 6.0. Thanks!

There is no better oil than Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40.

It does not shear at all and it has the patented trinuclear-organic-moly additive technology, which is an extreme-pressure, antioxidant, and friction-modifier additive.

No oil seems to have better wear protection according to the UOAs.

Overall, it has a great CJ-4 additive package as well and it's made from very high-quality Group II+ basestocks. In fact, the oil is so robust that it's the only multigrade oil in the market that is certified for the CF-2 category as well, which is for severe high-temperature, high-shear environments of two-stroke-cycle engines.

It's sold for about $13 a gallon in Wal-Mart and you can get it for as low as $12 in auto stores during discounts. On top of that, there is a $3 mail-in rebate (forms available online) these days.

 

[fishintheobx]

Thanks all for the advice. Your points make very good sense and you have talked me out of the spend on synthetic. When it comes to filters, I've read all the tech articles on Motorcraft, and it makes perfect sense. I've heard great things on the Delvac 1300 and Delo 400. A little torn between both, but will let the numbers decide.

Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
Make sure you romp on it occasionally to blow the carbon out. This will keep the veins in the turbo charger moving freely.

Yep...everytime it's driven. The truck is driven very gingerly, but right before I get home there is a good 2 mile stretch where I lay down on it pretty good from a dead-stop.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: fishintheobx
I've heard great things on the Delvac 1300 and Delo 400. A little torn between both, but will let the numbers decide.

The only problem with Chevron Delo is that it shears quite a bit (perhaps cheap viscosity-index improvers?). It will be like a 10W-30 oil after a few hundred miles. I thought you were looking for a shear-resistant 15W-40. Delo is good oil otherwise, loaded in ZDDP, moly, and boron, if you are OK with 15W-40 shearing to near 10W-30 weight.

The most shear-resistant oil among major brands is Mobil Delvac. It virtually does not shear at all. Second best in shear resistance is Shell Rotella. Mobil Delvac is also known to have trinuclear moly -- the best friction modifier and extreme-pressure additive out there. It's also made from Group II+, not Group II, basestocks -- another plus.

Here is a systematic UOA on major 15W-40 oils.

 

[wtd]

My fiancee owns a 2003 SD with the 6.0 that she bought new and its always had Motorcraft 10W-30 diesel oil used in it with no problems.

Wayne

 

[pavelow]

I run M1 TDT 5W40 in mine...makes a difference during starting.

 

[pavelow]

Originally Posted By: fishintheobx
Thanks for the great feedback... Granted the truck has some miles on it, but it's not going to see excessive driving in the future. The 6.0 definitely has a reputation, but everyone I know that has over 250k miles the owner has been on-top of and even doubled the maintenance schedule. This truck will never get tuned, and at the most may see a 4" Turbo-back exhaust. My 120 mile run on Monday at 65 mph on cruise gave me 20.4 mpg...so I'm not messing with the thing at all.

I'll likely stick with the 15w-40, just because that is what the manual calls for, and change every 5k miles. I figure every 10k while I'm doing oil and fuel filter change I'll get a UOI just to make sure my oil choice is holding up and no coolant or fuel is showing up in the oil.

I really want to steer clear of any "Stiction" issues as described here: Alliant Power Stiction Discussion
Big thing about the 6.0 is maintenance-maintenance-maintenance. This is one engine where you do not want to get lax on changing coolant, fluids, filters, etc. I wouldn't run any filters other than Motorcraft on it. When you buy a 6.0, you also buy yourself a marriage. And good choice on not tuning it....that has hurt many a 6.0. If you want to hear more of your turbo, and you don't have to play the emissions testing game, you can pull the cat and put a straight pipe exhaust on it.....the 6.0 sounds great uncorked.