5w30 vs 10w30

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Have been reading the forums for a couple of months now....GREAT STUFF!!! Only 1 problem...maybe too much info! My head is swimming at times.
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I have a 1996 Honda Accord with the 2.2l v-tech with 110,000 miles. Have been using your basic dino so far with 2-3000 mi oil change intervals.(recommendation is 7500) No oil consumed but I am thinking of switching over to Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 oil filter for better cold weather pumping since I do get a distinct ticking noise the first few minutes when temps. are 40 or below(very annoying). The manual states 5w30 is preferred. Is 10w30 acceptable or better now with the number of miles? You are the experts, I will go with what you say.
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For a high rpm engine, I prefer 0w-30 or 5w-30. The pumping losses associated with using a heavier oil increase as the rpms increase.

The Mobil 1, 5w-30 is an excellent oil and would be my choice for any Honda/Acura engine, or any high rpm four cylinder engine.

TooSlick
 
I bought a bunch, meaning 12 quarts, of Mobil 1 TriSyn 0W30 when they were on clearance earlier this year. My car is a Miata with a 7K RPM redline, which I come close to about once or twice a day.

Consindering the relative thinness of 0W30 and my car's high RPM, how long do you think I should wait before the next oil change?
 
quote:

Originally posted by tai:
I bought a bunch, meaning 12 quarts, of Mobil 1 TriSyn 0W30 when they were on clearance earlier this year. My car is a Miata with a 7K RPM redline, which I come close to about once or twice a day.

Consindering the relative thinness of 0W30 and my car's high RPM, how long do you think I should wait before the next oil change?


It's interesting, at operating temperature, Mobil 1 0W-30's specs indicate it is actually thicker than their 5W-30 or 10W-30. The difference is really only technical, and in actual production, they are probably all around the same. What I'm taking forever to say is that I think you can treat the 0W-30 the same as you would the other two. I'm sure others will jump in with more info for you as well.
 
quote:

Originally posted by mdv:
It's interesting, at operating temperature, Mobil 1 0W-30's specs indicate it is actually thicker than their 5W-30 or 10W-30. The difference is really only technical, and in actual production, they are probably all around the same. What I'm taking forever to say is that I think you can treat the 0W-30 the same as you would the other two. I'm sure others will jump in with more info for you as well.

Thanks. I feel better. Had expected 0W30 Mobil 1 to be thinner, or at least thin down sooner, especially with my high-revving style of driving, but if not then terrific!
 
When new the 0w30 might be thicker than 10w30 and 5w30 at operating temperature, but the additional VII means that after a few thousand miles it will most likely end up being thinner. The TriSynthetic version thins out pretty easily, based on the 5w30 analysis results I've seen. With the new SuperSyn this may no longer be a problem though.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
When new the 0w30 might be thicker than 10w30 and 5w30 at operating temperature, but the additional VII means that after a few thousand miles it will most likely end up being thinner. The TriSynthetic version thins out pretty easily, based on the 5w30 analysis results I've seen. With the new SuperSyn this may no longer be a problem though.

Patman, I thought all of Mobil 1's oils showed a tendency to thin out with use. Was the 0W-30 any worse than the others? Did it thin out more, or did it thin out faster?

Edit: Nevermind, I just re-read your post again.

[ November 23, 2002, 09:16 PM: Message edited by: mdv ]
 
If you're set on using Mobil 1, I'd suggest looking at MX4T for those high revving cars
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It only comes in 10w40 so your 1/4 mile times will suffer.
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Speaking of high-revving engines and Mobil 1, does it sound right that Mobil 1 would shear out or thin out quite a bit within 3000 miles, even with a high-revving auto engine? A number of Miata owners who use Mobil 1 claim to start hearing increased valvetrain noise within 3000 miles, which they use as a indicator to change the oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by tai:
Speaking of high-revving engines and Mobil 1, does it sound right that Mobil 1 would shear out or thin out quite a bit within 3000 miles, even with a high-revving auto engine? A number of Miata owners who use Mobil 1 claim to start hearing increased valvetrain noise within 3000 miles, which they use as a indicator to change the oil.

I used to experience the same thing with my old 1993 Escort Gt, which had the Miata engine in it. I always change Mobil 1 at 3000 miles in my Integra, because I drive it hard and wind it out regularly. -Joe
 
I had a 95 Escort GT and used to do 5k changes with Mobil 1 and never heard any strange valvetrain noises even at the end of the intervals. My sister bought the car new and I did all the oil changes on it all along, and I owned the car from the 30k mark to the 50k mark.
 
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Thanks for the info all..... so, do you think it to be all right then to go the full recommended 7500 miles with Mobil 1 5w-30 in a 4-cylinder? I mean...if Honda recommends it with any oil that meets specs., then Mobil 1 ought to be able to handle it...right? I am interested in cutting down my oil change intervals with the miles I drive. Thanks again!
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Other than the Toyota sludge monsters, any engine should be able to handle 7500 drains with Mobil 1 with ease. To be sure, run the first interval to 5k and analyze it, that way you see for sure.

[ November 25, 2002, 08:16 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]
 
" ... but I am thinking of switching over to Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 oil filter for better cold weather pumping since I do get a distinct ticking noise the first few minutes when temps. are 40 or below(very annoying)."

Mav, that is called "piston slap" and it is common in many Hondas. It is caused by worn piston skirts. It's annoying but not terminal. I know know that Mobil Tri-Syn did nothing to quiet this down, I have no idea what effect Super-Syn will have. The only motor oil I know for sure which quiets this down is Red Line oil ... even their 5W30 makes a serious difference.
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--- Bror Jace
 
I posted an analysis of M1 0w-30 trisyn after 7250 miles in my Acura RSX. The oil held up pretty well over that interval and it didn't shear down at all. I was unhappy with the oil because I found it to be too volatile. I burned it 3 times faster than the factory-fill 5w-20. I'm running M1 5w-30 SS now and even though I only have 1500 miles on it I can tell that my consumption is much much lower.
 
What is different about the Redline that would make a difference with piston slap? I have read in past posts that it is more ester based and this helps to swell seals whereas M1 is PAO based which can shrink them.....yes or no? Thanks for all the discussion!
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By the way....why would I have worn piston skirts after having changed the oil every 2-3000 miles up until now ?
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This discourages me.
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