5W20 or ? Recommendation

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I've been studying the forums for a little while trying to decide what to run in my new car. It's a 3.0L V6 SOHC that I'll probably run a bit harder than average. I do 12 miles to work in moderate traffic, with lots of highway trips on weekends that makes my mileage range from 12-20k/year.

Manual says 5W20 or 5W30 temporarily (supposed to switch back to 20 afterwards) at 3750/7500 mile intervals.

I live south of Atlanta though, so I'm not sure about 5W20. I'd prefer Mobil 1 every 5k, but do I run 0W20 or 5W30? Or should I run Pennzoil dino every 3k? Since its a Honda, I'd like to keep the moly high (is that right?)

I've got 4500 miles (Castrol GTX 5W20 from the dealer - long story) on it now, I put 3k on the factory fill. I wanted that out earlier but manual says to leave it in for full cycle, so I just went with the standard 3k. If I'd known better I would have at least replaced the factory filter with something better.

What takes precedence: living in a warm climate or factory rec for small clearances? I think I'm leaning towards Mobil 1 0W20 most of the year, and 5W30 in the heat of the summer. Is the filter dependent on the oil I use, or can I determine that as a separate issue?
 
You didn't tell me what year !!!!

Use Redline 5w-20 or Royal Purple 5w-20 sample at 6000 and determine drain by test.
 
It's a 2003 Accord Coupe EX V6 with six speed manual. My first new car. My precious...

And I haven't the foggiest of how to get ahold of Redline or Royal Purple. I think I'll stay away from RP though. If I was racing this car rather than cruising in it, I'd probably think about the Redline...

[ April 11, 2003, 07:28 PM: Message edited by: spleck ]
 
My '02 Acura TL manual says 5W20....
I am still not convinced that 5W20 is the best for(our VTEC V6) engine.. I am looking for the best protection as opposed an ever so slight improvement is gaz mileage...
I am running RP 5W30 in it now, and I am very pleased with the perfomance so far.
My last interval was long - 8 months- with a minimal 3500 kms on it, because the car was a hangar queen for the winter.
We shall see what the summer reveals..
jean

[ April 11, 2003, 10:02 PM: Message edited by: 2K2AcuraTL ]
 
If you are set on running a 5w-20 then a synthetic would be best. Mobil1 will work well, I would say Redline's 5w-20 would be best but you already mentined not wanting use it. I haven't seen Mobil1's 20 weight in our area yet , but if you have it down there already give it a shot and have it analyzed for sure.

I myself would be tempted to run a 5w-30 oil in that setup given the environment, but that is just my opinion. BTW, the story about tighter engine clearances is B.S. . I've gone back as far as 1992 with Honda clearances as listed in service manuals, and I can say without doubt that their clearances have not changed since at least 1992 vs. 2002 specs. This is on Accord and Civics. I could find only one clearance that was tighter, and that was the piston to pin and pin to rod clearance - very minor detail IMO. All other clearances have remained the same.

If you don't want to run Redline, I would say Mobil1 for up to 7000 miles, have it analyzed and adjust intervals from there.

Lastly, keep that Honda oil filter, I doubt you will find any aftermarket filter that will perform any better. Oil flow is critical on your engine and the stock filter was designed to give the proper flow levels. I wouldn't gamble on that being true with other filters available in the aftermarket.

good luck, keep up posted on any results .
 
I don't plan on going past 5000 mile intervals, so I don't think the Redline will be worth the extra cost or hassle of getting it, but my concern is that I've heard the Mobil 1 may cause valve noise. But I figure 5x$4 + $5 filter is fine every 5000 miles.

I would like moly... does Redline have it? I think Schaeffer does and Mobil has a minute amount right?

I'm thinking I may alternate 5W30 and 0W20. I don't think I'll have warranty issues, but that would still give me piece of mind. Any issues with alternating like that?

Is the Honda filter really that good? I had heard elsewhere that its actually a FRAM.
 
I'm in the same spot with my 2002 Ranger. 5w20 is recommended and just to avoid any warranty debates I am using it at least while under warranty. I went with Castrol GTX because I have had great luck with Castrol and its very easy to find. I am sticking to 3,000 mile intervals just to be safe with this viscosity.
 
Oh that link is VERY disconcerting. I wanted to change it out because I thought it was a FRAM... then I read that "much, much worse than the Fram". What about Bosch, Mobil 1, and STP?

So far it looks like I'm gonna be forking over $20 bucks every 3 months for OA until I know more.
 
quote:

Originally posted by 2K2AcuraTL:
My '02 Acura TL manual says 5W20....
I am still not convinced that 5W20 is the best for(our VTEC V6) engine.. I am looking for the best protection as opposed an ever so slight improvement is gaz mileage...
I am running RP 5W30 in it now, and I am very pleased with the perfomance so far.


RP 5w30 turns into a 5w20 anyways.
 
quote:

Originally posted by spleck:

I would like moly... does Redline have it? I think Schaeffer does and Mobil has a minute amount right?


Redline uses a whopping amount of moly!
smile.gif


They typically have 500-600ppm of it. Schaeffer oil has 170, Mobil 1 has about 80-90.
 
I'd be concerned about too much Moly. Any of the above are good. M1 is a low 30wt. I don't think any warranties are voided when using a 30wt. oil in a car that calls for a 20wt. Ford dealer told me it was no problem. Not sure though if this applies to other makes. I think that M1 is a great oil to use in cars that call for 20wts. It will give the protection of a 30wt. yet still give you great fuel economy bc it's a lighter 30wt. Thicker is not always better, especially with engine tolerances being so tight today. Flow is important too. Or wait a month or so and use M1 0w-20. For the first time I saw Amsoil XL 5w-20 at a Mobil gas station. I'm waiting for Amsoil to extend this line into more retail outlets.

[ April 12, 2003, 07:21 AM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
quote:

Lastly, keep that Honda oil filter, I doubt you will find any aftermarket filter that will perform any better. Oil flow is critical on your engine and the stock filter was designed to give the proper flow levels. I wouldn't gamble on that being true with other filters available in the aftermarket.

IS this a concensus opinion??? I have the same car and all I have heard up until this is to NOT get the Honda filter...that it was crap (at least the U.S. one).

[ April 12, 2003, 08:32 AM: Message edited by: Snatchface ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by 2K2AcuraTL:
I cut open the OEM filter on my Acura TL.. another POS...
rolleyes.gif
cardboard end caps.. it was a fram..
Jean


I think people have gotten carried away with how filters "look" when they cut them open. Appearance and performance are two very different things. Cardboard caps have been a criticism of Fram filters, yet there hasn't been any report of that causing any problems and when filters have been opened up the end caps have been in tact. All the evidence we've seen is that Fram filters perform fine under analysis. We've even seen some limited info. that may indicate other more expensive (i.e. better built) filters could actually be restricting oil flow more than filters such as Fram. I've said it many times, that proper oil flow levels are more important than having the absolutely best filtering media. Things like cardboard end caps really don't mean much in the overall performance picture, they have no effect on oil flow for good or bad. I can understand how visually cardboard end caps can give you an impression of lousy oil filter, but I am more concerned with how a filter operates. Restrictive media and improperly designed relieve valves are more important features of an oil filter. I believe Honda has ensured that their oil filters provide the necessary oil flow for their engines - which tend to be a little high strung. Honda rates my oil filter as being capable of running up to 20,000 miles if necessary, thus it is definitely plenty fine for 5000-7000 miles which most people tend to follow.
 
Spleck,
Here's what I'd do:
1) Get Schaeffer #701 5W-30 from Mills at the 800 number at the top of this page. If your owner's manual allows, use 10W-30.

2) Do a google search for "Import Auto Parts." You'll find a company in Georgia that offers five filters imported from Japan that fit your car--I think the Denso is my favorite of the ones shown. (They only list the 2002 so far, but check your local Honda parts counter to confirm the filters are the same.)


Ken
 
quote:

Originally posted by Idrinkmotoroil:

quote:

Originally posted by 2K2AcuraTL:
I cut open the OEM filter on my Acura TL.. another POS...
rolleyes.gif
cardboard end caps.. it was a fram..
Jean


I think people have gotten carried away with how filters "look" when they cut them open. Appearance and performance are two very different things. Cardboard caps have been a criticism of Fram filters, yet there hasn't been any report of that causing any problems and when filters have been opened up the end caps have been in tact. All the evidence we've seen is that Fram filters perform fine under analysis. We've even seen some limited info. that may indicate other more expensive (i.e. better built) filters could actually be restricting oil flow more than filters such as Fram. I've said it many times, that proper oil flow levels are more important than having the absolutely best filtering media. Things like cardboard end caps really don't mean much in the overall performance picture, they have no effect on oil flow for good or bad. I can understand how visually cardboard end caps can give you an impression of lousy oil filter, but I am more concerned with how a filter operates. Restrictive media and improperly designed relieve valves are more important features of an oil filter. I believe Honda has ensured that their oil filters provide the necessary oil flow for their engines - which tend to be a little high strung. Honda rates my oil filter as being capable of running up to 20,000 miles if necessary, thus it is definitely plenty fine for 5000-7000 miles which most people tend to follow.


OK, fair enough..
But after cutting open the K&N 48hrs ago... and comparing the two... well there is no comparison...anti-drainback valve, number of pleats, and -bypass valve..the OEM doesnt have one...!! I may not be a rocket scientist, but I'll stick to my own judgement.
Jean

[ April 12, 2003, 07:12 PM: Message edited by: 2K2AcuraTL ]
 
K&N oil filters seem to be well regarded within the industry, although they should be for that kind of money. I would love to see some oil analysis data between that filter and an OEM to see if there are any effects.

I don't put much faith in the number of pleats in an oil filter media, we can't tell what effect that has on oil flow. Lastly, the bypass valve is only helpful if it is set properly. An improperly set bypass valve can do more harm than good if the engine runs in bypass mode too often, as it can lead to increased wear. I'd like to see some more UOA's using the same oil with different oil filters such as Bob was doing, this would be a good place to start though if you're up to it
canada.gif


[ April 12, 2003, 11:02 PM: Message edited by: Idrinkmotoroil ]
 
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