5W20, 5W30, 5W40

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My car spec'd 10W30 in the U.S but I damaged it beyond repair by running 25W70 for many years. Hold on I'm about to drive that car with 250,000kms+ on it to work. Engine has somehow 'repaired' itself. Knight Rider indeed
 
On 8-7 I drained the 5W40 and filled the 2004 Focus ZX3 2.3L with Valvoline 5W30 Premium Conventional, API SM/SL ILSAC GF-4 and ran about 175 miles with outside temps up to 100F. I cannot hear any lifter clicking with the 5W30. The lifter clicking started at 40,000 miles using 5W20 and the ZX3 now has 45,000 miles. The lifter noise went away using the 5W40 and 5W30. The 5W30 was installed after receiving advice from BITOG members not to run the 5W40.
 
No problem at all 5W40 will work in your ambient temp.'s year round just fine. I would stick with quality 5W40 like Redline,Amsoil,Mobil,Rotella,Penrite,Torco,Motul etc......
 
I often run 5W40 year round and I live in Michigan and we get temp.'s in -20°F to -30°F range dureing the winter. Their is no reason to be shy of 5W40's. If you lived near the artic circle then I could see staying with a 0W40 or 0W30 but no need in this case!
 
John,

I appreciate you comments that can be applied to the region and conditions where I live for my autos and motorcycles.

Best Regards,
 
I prefer thinner oils that get to the upper part of the engine that fastest. With today's technology, no need for a 40wt in that car IMHO. You actually might get shorter engine life using that over a 20wt.
 
Well, just for everyones info, I am a fleet mechanic. When we recieved the meter reader ford rangers and meter vans last yr , I was told to use 15W40 in everything. I questioned the fleet super and was told, DO IT , the 5W20 is for cafe only. well, we are having no problems after between 20,000 and 28,000 miles so far.
I know I will be flamed, but the best m/c oil I have found is the Val 10W40 4 cycle motorcycle oil. It is higher in zink and phosphorus, which is better for engines AND wet clutches. I have put over 100,000 miles using it and luv it. Whatever you do , do NOT use 5W40 rotella synthetic. I have a 1500 cluth tore down now after using it for 3 yrs. Completely destroyed from slippage and the heat from that. Tim
 
Most syns here are 5W40 bar Mobil 1 0W40. 5W40 is the world's universal oil viscosity. BP Visco 5000 5W40 will be going in the Mazda after RX rinse phase finished. RX MD as well of course
 
Thanks to All for the info. The bottom line is I will use 5w30 or 10W30 in a car with a 5W20 spec. I will report back to the group next year with experience (good or bad) about this decision.
 
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With today's technology, no need for a 40wt in that car IMHO. You actually might get shorter engine life using that over a 20wt.




You actually might get shorter engine life using that 20W over a 40W - when/if dilution takes hold inside that engine.
 
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Probaby can run Valvoline MaxLife 10w30 in them all. You don't need a 5wXX for anything down there.




paul has a good point. but i am a sticker on what the manufacturer recomends is what you should use.. in my tacoma it says i can use 5w30 or 10w30 so i use both. 10w in the summer and 5w in the winter. so read your book..
 
Mike,

I have 1987 Toyota Pickup with the 22R engine. I purchased it with about 100,000 miles and now have over 215,000 miles. The manual that came with the Pickup is for the 1989 model, so it states the following for the 22R & 22RE engine:
5W30 for -25F to 50F
10W30, 10W40, 10W50 for 0F to 105F
15W40, 20W40, 20W50 for 10F to 105F
The lifter noise I had running 10W30 went away when I started using the 15W40 Rotella T from 30F to 100F.
I agree with going with the OEM recommendations unless it does not work. In the case of the "my" Focus ZX3 2.3L auto, 5W30 & 5W40 made the lifter noise go away compared to using the Motorcraft 5W20 with lifter clicking in temps 30F to 100F after 40,000 miles.
I appreciate your comments,
 
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