I think he was questioning whether there is even a Ferrari specification as opposed to just a marketing agreement.
5W oil vs 0W oil - How much more wear in real life conditions?
- Thread starter TheMidnightNarwh
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Not enough to measure.
Originally Posted by geeman789
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by geeman789
PP Euro 5w40 has, or used to have the FERRARI approval ... who can argue with that ! And when on sale at CDN Tire, it's a smoking' deal.
Except Ferrari approval does not exists.
Website still mentions Ferrari. My last jug, however, did not ...
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/10/full-63158-37250-screen_shot_2019_10_18_at_11.26.19_am.png "[Linked Image]")
That is recommendation.
There is no such thing as Ferrari APPROVAL.
If there is, can you please let us know of sequence and what it consists of?
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by geeman789
PP Euro 5w40 has, or used to have the FERRARI approval ... who can argue with that ! And when on sale at CDN Tire, it's a smoking' deal.
Except Ferrari approval does not exists.
Website still mentions Ferrari. My last jug, however, did not ...
That is recommendation.
There is no such thing as Ferrari APPROVAL.
If there is, can you please let us know of sequence and what it consists of?
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by geeman789
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by geeman789
PP Euro 5w40 has, or used to have the FERRARI approval ... who can argue with that ! And when on sale at CDN Tire, it's a smoking' deal.
Except Ferrari approval does not exists.
Website still mentions Ferrari. My last jug, however, did not ...
That is recommendation.
There is no such thing as Ferrari APPROVAL.
If there is, can you please let us know of sequence and what it consists of?
You are correct.
Still, if Ferrari recommends Pennzoil it has to be not so bad oil. I also hate the Castrol bottles so I'm happy to have switched to Pennzoil.
Originally Posted by geeman789
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by geeman789
PP Euro 5w40 has, or used to have the FERRARI approval ... who can argue with that ! And when on sale at CDN Tire, it's a smoking' deal.
Except Ferrari approval does not exists.
Website still mentions Ferrari. My last jug, however, did not ...
That is recommendation.
There is no such thing as Ferrari APPROVAL.
If there is, can you please let us know of sequence and what it consists of?
You are correct.
Still, if Ferrari recommends Pennzoil it has to be not so bad oil. I also hate the Castrol bottles so I'm happy to have switched to Pennzoil.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
I have 2011 BMW 335is. It seems my Castrol LL1 0W-40 A3/B4 oil is being phased out here in Canada. I'm a spec guy so I like to fllow manual recommendations and manual says LL01 so this limits me in terms of oil selection. The only oil at local auto stores left is the Pennzoil Euro ultra platinum 5W-40. I'm happy to try that I just wanted to ask to you folks how much "wear" am I adding in getting a 5W compared to 0W in winter temps? My winter averages are around -20c (-4F), sometimes on cold morning it can rarely be -30c (-22f). It's my understanding that is still somewhat OK for a 5W oil right and 0W only required for more extreme colds? My manual also lists grades to be used in conjunction with LL01 spec are 0W-40, 5W-40, 0W-30, 5W-30. I prefer to stick with 40s since I am tuned.
TLDR: In real life conditions, how much cold start/running wear protection am I loosing by going from a 0W-40 oil to 5W-40 in temperatures around -25c (13f).
Nothing will happen.
I used Valvoline 5W40 MST in X5 with M57 diesel engine and started it as low as -39c. If you are concerned about cold start you can order some Ravenol that has LL01 approvals and make 0W30 and 0W40 grade. I would go though in your case with 5W30 oil and not 5W40. Can you get your hands on BMW TPT 5W30? It is really good oil.
I already bought 10 litres of Pennzoii Platinum Euro 5W-40. That said I don't think 5W-30 is good on this car. Everyone recommends 40. And I rather also not pay 120$ in oil for just one oil change.
BMW TPT 5W30 LL01 will be perfectly fine in N54. HTHS of TPT is 3.58, HTHS of Pennzoil 5W40 is 3.6. HTHS is what matters.
Of course if price difference is too big, it is not worth it. Do you have access to Castrol Edge 0W30?
Yeah I think dealer 0W-30 is FE oil. I don't drive it on track always but rarely at car events and on the street I kinda drive it like on the track when we do group cruises on the back roads. Oil gets pretty hot but is regulated with my oil cooler.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
I have 2011 BMW 335is. It seems my Castrol LL1 0W-40 A3/B4 oil is being phased out here in Canada. I'm a spec guy so I like to fllow manual recommendations and manual says LL01 so this limits me in terms of oil selection. The only oil at local auto stores left is the Pennzoil Euro ultra platinum 5W-40. I'm happy to try that I just wanted to ask to you folks how much "wear" am I adding in getting a 5W compared to 0W in winter temps? My winter averages are around -20c (-4F), sometimes on cold morning it can rarely be -30c (-22f). It's my understanding that is still somewhat OK for a 5W oil right and 0W only required for more extreme colds? My manual also lists grades to be used in conjunction with LL01 spec are 0W-40, 5W-40, 0W-30, 5W-30. I prefer to stick with 40s since I am tuned.
TLDR: In real life conditions, how much cold start/running wear protection am I loosing by going from a 0W-40 oil to 5W-40 in temperatures around -25c (13f).
Nothing will happen.
I used Valvoline 5W40 MST in X5 with M57 diesel engine and started it as low as -39c. If you are concerned about cold start you can order some Ravenol that has LL01 approvals and make 0W30 and 0W40 grade. I would go though in your case with 5W30 oil and not 5W40. Can you get your hands on BMW TPT 5W30? It is really good oil.
I already bought 10 litres of Pennzoii Platinum Euro 5W-40. That said I don't think 5W-30 is good on this car. Everyone recommends 40. And I rather also not pay 120$ in oil for just one oil change.
BMW TPT 5W30 LL01 will be perfectly fine in N54. HTHS of TPT is 3.58, HTHS of Pennzoil 5W40 is 3.6. HTHS is what matters.
Of course if price difference is too big, it is not worth it. Do you have access to Castrol Edge 0W30?
Ah ok so they are nearly identical, then the 5W40 would win because it's more than half cheaper. I do think I do yes have access to Castrol 0W-30. But I think they are only sold in 1L bottles at around 13$ each so it's almost same price than the BMW oil because oil sales here are only on the 5L formats. I also hate the Castrol bottles.
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
I have 2011 BMW 335is. It seems my Castrol LL1 0W-40 A3/B4 oil is being phased out here in Canada. I'm a spec guy so I like to fllow manual recommendations and manual says LL01 so this limits me in terms of oil selection. The only oil at local auto stores left is the Pennzoil Euro ultra platinum 5W-40. I'm happy to try that I just wanted to ask to you folks how much "wear" am I adding in getting a 5W compared to 0W in winter temps? My winter averages are around -20c (-4F), sometimes on cold morning it can rarely be -30c (-22f). It's my understanding that is still somewhat OK for a 5W oil right and 0W only required for more extreme colds? My manual also lists grades to be used in conjunction with LL01 spec are 0W-40, 5W-40, 0W-30, 5W-30. I prefer to stick with 40s since I am tuned.
TLDR: In real life conditions, how much cold start/running wear protection am I loosing by going from a 0W-40 oil to 5W-40 in temperatures around -25c (13f).
Nothing will happen.
I used Valvoline 5W40 MST in X5 with M57 diesel engine and started it as low as -39c. If you are concerned about cold start you can order some Ravenol that has LL01 approvals and make 0W30 and 0W40 grade. I would go though in your case with 5W30 oil and not 5W40. Can you get your hands on BMW TPT 5W30? It is really good oil.
I already bought 10 litres of Pennzoii Platinum Euro 5W-40. That said I don't think 5W-30 is good on this car. Everyone recommends 40. And I rather also not pay 120$ in oil for just one oil change.
BMW TPT 5W30 LL01 will be perfectly fine in N54. HTHS of TPT is 3.58, HTHS of Pennzoil 5W40 is 3.6. HTHS is what matters.
Of course if price difference is too big, it is not worth it. Do you have access to Castrol Edge 0W30?
Yeah I think dealer 0W-30 is FE oil. I don't drive it on track always but rarely at car events and on the street I kinda drive it like on the track when we do group cruises on the back roads. Oil gets pretty hot but is regulated with my oil cooler.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
I have 2011 BMW 335is. It seems my Castrol LL1 0W-40 A3/B4 oil is being phased out here in Canada. I'm a spec guy so I like to fllow manual recommendations and manual says LL01 so this limits me in terms of oil selection. The only oil at local auto stores left is the Pennzoil Euro ultra platinum 5W-40. I'm happy to try that I just wanted to ask to you folks how much "wear" am I adding in getting a 5W compared to 0W in winter temps? My winter averages are around -20c (-4F), sometimes on cold morning it can rarely be -30c (-22f). It's my understanding that is still somewhat OK for a 5W oil right and 0W only required for more extreme colds? My manual also lists grades to be used in conjunction with LL01 spec are 0W-40, 5W-40, 0W-30, 5W-30. I prefer to stick with 40s since I am tuned.
TLDR: In real life conditions, how much cold start/running wear protection am I loosing by going from a 0W-40 oil to 5W-40 in temperatures around -25c (13f).
Nothing will happen.
I used Valvoline 5W40 MST in X5 with M57 diesel engine and started it as low as -39c. If you are concerned about cold start you can order some Ravenol that has LL01 approvals and make 0W30 and 0W40 grade. I would go though in your case with 5W30 oil and not 5W40. Can you get your hands on BMW TPT 5W30? It is really good oil.
I already bought 10 litres of Pennzoii Platinum Euro 5W-40. That said I don't think 5W-30 is good on this car. Everyone recommends 40. And I rather also not pay 120$ in oil for just one oil change.
BMW TPT 5W30 LL01 will be perfectly fine in N54. HTHS of TPT is 3.58, HTHS of Pennzoil 5W40 is 3.6. HTHS is what matters.
Of course if price difference is too big, it is not worth it. Do you have access to Castrol Edge 0W30?
Ah ok so they are nearly identical, then the 5W40 would win because it's more than half cheaper. I do think I do yes have access to Castrol 0W-30. But I think they are only sold in 1L bottles at around 13$ each so it's almost same price than the BMW oil because oil sales here are only on the 5L formats. I also hate the Castrol bottles.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by ChristianReske
When i start my car after it sit for one or two weeks, the oil pressure light sometimes need one or even two seconds to go off. To me, this means unnecessary wear of the engine.
When i start the hot engine, e.g. after a fuel stop, the oil ist thin. The oil pressure light go off in the blink of a eye. No engine wear..
Dunno about your car and what you're seeing but when I start my car all the dummy lights illuminate for a second or so then go off. I attribute this to the ECU checking systems upon power up and not low oil pressure. I may be wrong here but it's going to take more than a second or two for the ECU to register low pressure reading from the sending unit, otherwise every car would get a DTC at startup, no?
Fwiw, it takes a couple seconds for pressure to build and charge the hydraulic chain tensioner in my engine...yet i don't get a CEL/DTC. This tells me that the ECU is "aware" that oil pressure is low immediately upon starting and is tracking the pressure v. time to determine if a DTC needs to be thrown. If YOU are still seeing that dummy light illuminated beyond the first second or two at startup, I might suggest you get that looked at. It may be totally normal for your ride but it isn't for mine.
*EDIT: and what kschachn said abt plotting viscosity v. temp..both a 0w and 5w will flow adequately (standardized tests prove this) at all but the most extreme temps and drops (the viscosity) like a rock once the engines started.
When i start my car after it sit for one or two weeks, the oil pressure light sometimes need one or even two seconds to go off. To me, this means unnecessary wear of the engine.
When i start the hot engine, e.g. after a fuel stop, the oil ist thin. The oil pressure light go off in the blink of a eye. No engine wear..
Dunno about your car and what you're seeing but when I start my car all the dummy lights illuminate for a second or so then go off. I attribute this to the ECU checking systems upon power up and not low oil pressure. I may be wrong here but it's going to take more than a second or two for the ECU to register low pressure reading from the sending unit, otherwise every car would get a DTC at startup, no?
Fwiw, it takes a couple seconds for pressure to build and charge the hydraulic chain tensioner in my engine...yet i don't get a CEL/DTC. This tells me that the ECU is "aware" that oil pressure is low immediately upon starting and is tracking the pressure v. time to determine if a DTC needs to be thrown. If YOU are still seeing that dummy light illuminated beyond the first second or two at startup, I might suggest you get that looked at. It may be totally normal for your ride but it isn't for mine.
*EDIT: and what kschachn said abt plotting viscosity v. temp..both a 0w and 5w will flow adequately (standardized tests prove this) at all but the most extreme temps and drops (the viscosity) like a rock once the engines started.
Last edited:
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