5W-30 Oils with HTHS =>3.5

jurko

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It is VW 504/507, which is min 3.5 HTHS.
That Valvoline Advanced XL-III 5W30 looks good too and if one had to apply the minimum HTHS it would rank somewhere in the middle on that list based on VII content.
Valvoline.jpg

This list is by no means saying or is recommendation to pick top rated oil based VII or HTFS and be done with it,
One has to also look at Detergent and Antiwear Additives. TBN and most importantly MFG Approval.
 
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That Valvoline Advanced XL-III 5W30 looks good too and if one had to apply the minimum HTHS it would rank somewhere in the middle on that list based on VII content.
View attachment 46149
This list is by no means saying or is recommendation to pick top rated oil based VII or HTFS and be done with it,
One has to also look at Detergent and Antiwear Additives. TBN and most importantly MFG Approval.
*I advocate Valvoline Advanced 5W30 (USA) : KV100 = 10.2 and VII is down in the 2.5% range . I trade a lower KV100 (10.2) and a lower HTHS (3.0) in order to obtain lower VII's as my engine is a Hyundai 2.4L (non - turbo) DI . I keep my OCI's low at 4K miles , so hopefully I will achieve good film strength / lubrication and before the oil shears much I will be ready to change the oil keeping intake valve deposits on this DI engine as low as possible . Still , that Valvoline XL-III looks like a very good oil which has better specs VII wise than a number of oils with lower KV100 and HTHS specs. !!
 
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I have no clue about HTHS requirements of this particular engine, but if you want "good film strength"
as you say, use oil with HTHS 3,5 or above, which is what this thread is about.
I also take care the oil I run in the Golf is appropriate for DI engines and that's why I run what I run -
low Noack, low Calcium, basically C3 oils, alternating VMP when at the dealer, as it's VW 504 00 and
REP (BMW LL.04, MB229.51, 229.52, HTHS 3,7 Noack 6,2 %) when I do my own changes. I don't think
there's something much better for this application. Admittedly it's no the cheapest. The only other
5W-30 with that high HTHS I'm aware of is Redline, which definitely isn't particularly "DI friendly". It
isn't cheap either.
 
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I have no clue about HTHS requirements of this particular engine, but if you want "good film strength"
as you say, use oil with HTHS 3,5 or above, which is what this thread is about.
Just FYI ... HTHS viscosity is what gives "film thickness". The anti-friction/anti-wear additives is what gives the "film strength". The Machinery Lubrication website has a good article about it.

The first line of defense againt metal-to-metal contact wear is the HTHS viscosity (the film thickness, ie: MOFT). When that fails and metal-to-metal contact occurs, then the AF/AW additives come in to play to mitigate wear (the film strength).
 
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You're absolute right, dude. I was under the impression, while Chris said "good film strength/lubrication", he actually could have meant film thickness or lubricity, but I could have been wrong.
 
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*I advocate Valvoline Advanced 5W30 (USA) : KV100 = 10.2 and VII is down in the 2.5% range . I trade a lower KV100 (10.2) and a lower HTHS (3.0) in order to obtain lower VII's as my engine is a Hyundai 2.4L (non - turbo) DI . I keep my OCI's low at 4K miles , so hopefully I will achieve good film strength / lubrication and before the oil shears much I will be ready to change the oil keeping intake valve deposits on this DI engine as low as possible . Still , that Valvoline XL-III looks like a very good oil which has better specs VII wise than a number of oils with lower KV100 and HTHS specs. !!
My commuter Equinox's 2.4L DI (non-turbo) engine breaks down oils to the point where they begin to slip by its poor rings somewhere between 2500 and 3000 miles. Oil consumption begins at that point. I suspect our DI engines shear oils at a higher-rate -- more so than in previously owned engine designs.

In my case: besides addressing IVD accumulation, accomplishing a timely OCI is essential if I also wish to save downstream exhaust cat converters(s) from premature replacement.

Concerning both of us, I suspect the listed robust, lower VII, high HTHS oils could help address oil life longevity in our DI engines. It's a hope anyway. The question is this, "do their suspected longevity gains offset their increased cost?" IDK.
 
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Just FYI ... HTHS viscosity is what gives "film thickness". The anti-friction/anti-wear additives is what gives the "film strength". The Machinery Lubrication website has a good article about it.

The first line of defense againt metal-to-metal contact wear is the HTHS viscosity (the film thickness, ie: MOFT). When that fails and metal-to-metal contact occurs, then the AF/AW additives come in to play to mitigate wear (the film strength).
Exactly. That is why M1 0W40 is used extensively on track regardless of HTHS of 3.6 and the fact that numerous other oils have higher HTHS. But, that additive package is super strong. But, that SAPS levels are not for any engine.
 

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It's a good oil. Have you ever seen it in 5QT jugs?

I know I'm very late in responding to this but I missed this thread back in February somehow. In Canada we can get Mobil 1 5w30 ESP in 5 quart jugs, and they go on sale at Canadian Tire for close to $30 quite often. Much better than when I originally stocked up on the old formula of this oil, back then it was only sold in 1L bottles and the regular price was $17 per liter. I bought most of it when it went on clearance for roughly half that price.
Untitled-1.jpg
 
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I know I'm very late in responding to this but I missed this thread back in February somehow. In Canada we can get Mobil 1 5w30 ESP in 5 quart jugs, and they go on sale at Canadian Tire for close to $30 quite often. Much better than when I originally stocked up on the old formula of this oil, back then it was only sold in 1L bottles and the regular price was $17 per liter. I bought most of it when it went on clearance for roughly half that price. View attachment 59700
I'm hoping to see it packaged like that here soon.
 
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