5W-20 second thoughts

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 Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Guys, I'm not a 20 wt Kool-Aid drinker (present fills: GC in the TCH, GC in the Prius, and PP 5w-20 in the Avalon). But the only conclusion I can draw is that the vast majority of anti-20 sentiments I see here are simply not grounded in reality.
I'd just say that the preponderance of the evidence doesn't support the reservations that many cite in regard to lighter weight oils. Even if the realities of characteristics of lighter oils versus heavier has undeniable merit, it doesn't appear to have as much meaning in the practical application end of things. Just like I have a hard time finding out information on turbocharging an engine without maximum boost and power output as a goal, it would appear that no one can think in terms of common passenger car service when it comes to viscosity. If lighter oils are truly causing more wear, then the true impact is still beyond any sensible chassis life span or life expectation. Odds are some non-lube related mechanical fatigue will occur before the engine gets tired. Now I wouldn't recommend someone throwing 5w-20 in their A4 TT and running Death Valley @ WOT and think that there wouldn't be consequences to it. Nor would I recommend it in a Cummins. ..but for your average appliance (and even some non-appliances) I can't see it proving to be an issue. I don't consider myself a thin head either. I keep waiting for the mass migration to the junkyard with tired engines.
 
I am having M1 0W20 in MB E430 now instead of the recommended 0W40, I will be going to Vegas next month and passing through Death Valley. Usually, July is the hottest month at Death Valley and temperature is in the mid to high 120's. We'll see how my car performs under that heat. Last July I went to Vegas with PP 5W20 in that engine, and the car performs very well, better than 0W40.
 
 Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
[quote=ekpolk] /quote] I don't consider myself a thin head either. I keep waiting for the mass migration to the junkyard with tired engines.
Gary Allen do you use 5w20 in your vechiles?..Just wondering thats all.
 
 Originally Posted By: CROWNVIC4LIFE
 Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
[quote=ekpolk] /quote] I don't consider myself a thin head either. I keep waiting for the mass migration to the junkyard with tired engines.
Gary Allen do you use 5w20 in your vechiles?..Just wondering thats all.
His answer will drive you
 
 Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
 Originally Posted By: AdRock
In the 4.6L Mustangs Ford used to spec 5w-30 and the proper oil. Then they had problems with CAFE and switched to saying only 5w-20 so they could eek a little more out of the mileage. the kicker is that the engine clearances didn't change. This is why I still use 5w-30 in mine and probably why the dealer puts in 30.
I believe the piston design and pin offset changed, afa rod big end, IDK. Need to see the engine service manual. My bullit lost BIG power on the 30 and ran like a dog. like running 50 on a 30 engine.
Odd, since I went from 5w20 to 5w40 (and a HEAVY 5w40 at that) in my Expedition and noticed NOTHING in terms of an effect on power/performance. She just got quieter.
 
 Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
 Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I have not had an engine last more than 45K miles in the past 10 years on 30wt never mind 20wt. But My commute is the equivalent of 20 1/4 mile drag runs and 5 laps WOT of Watkins Glen EVERYDAY. Poor flogged yaris. I'm harder on my cars than just about any sane person. I even blew a motor in the first hour of ownership(KIA RIO5 1.6L)
While I don't like to join in on any gang tackles, I could really use a bit more detail on this. I'm trying to figure an hour equivalency to determine if you're trumping water craft fatigue/refresh times with how you're driving the thing. I'd say that you're harder on cars than most less than sane people too There are a few things that are puzzling. To do that much carnage to an engine, you would be buying cars quite often. That usually runs out of steam as you progressively get upside down as you move forward. If you can continue to do this, that implies a fatter wallet, which usually means you buy more robust cars than a Yaris. That would be the last thing most people buy if they have a wallet fat enough to scoff at bi-annual trade ins with blown engines (or thereabouts)
More robust than the Yaris? What? I had a F350 TD 4A and that was trash in 2 weeks due to a faulty BOSCH DI injector. Too bad last of the good ford bodies. And, yes, I've owned over 55 cars from a 86 Yugo (good car, me having many FIAT race parts lying about from the Lime Rock SCCA days) to 98 M-Roadster(VANOS died at 68K) I'm not trying to get 300k out of a motor, just maybe 50-60K. I like to make good time on my commute to work, but all the slugs and left lane bandits ruin a quick and easy commute. I commute at 70-90MPH 37 miles one way. BTW I am a NIASE Master Mechanic c.1978, BSME, work in Automotive/MIL/Aerospace component pilot production Engineering.
 
 Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
 Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I have not had an engine last more than 45K miles in the past 10 years on 30wt never mind 20wt. But My commute is the equivalent of 20 1/4 mile drag runs and 5 laps WOT of Watkins Glen EVERYDAY. Poor flogged yaris. I'm harder on my cars than just about any sane person. I even blew a motor in the first hour of ownership(KIA RIO5 1.6L)
Doesn't seem like you value safety or the things you own much.
How can your surmise that? The RIO had a defective engine - I'm an easy break-in guy, Korean junk started rapping 50 feet out of the dealer lot. AFA the "DRAG RACE" scenario, Ask our local legislators why is it necessary to put a stop light every two miles on a 65 MPH Interstate Highway? When I moved here 20 years ago there where 3 lights from the state border to my Town - now there are 17. Idiocy. I like to drive, and driving is not the safest thing you can do, but I dont even listen to the radio nevermind use a cell phone. FOCUS.
 
 Originally Posted By: tuckman
 Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
 Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I have not had an engine last more than 45K miles in the past 10 years on 30wt never mind 20wt. But My commute is the equivalent of 20 1/4 mile drag runs and 5 laps WOT of Watkins Glen EVERYDAY. Poor flogged yaris. I'm harder on my cars than just about any sane person. I even blew a motor in the first hour of ownership(KIA RIO5 1.6L)
Doesn't seem like you value safety or the things you own much.
Thank goodness he doesn't drive something with some real weight behind it or have BIG power under the hood
I traded a 2007 Chevy P/U 5M for the Yaris due to fuel costs. Decent Truck, but junk engine in the 4.3L. Commuted 2 mph below the ECU OVERSPEED FUEL SHUTOFF WHENEVER possible in the Chevy. Dumbell left-lane bandits didnt pay much attention to that rig either. Used to drive an Electra 225 convertible with a 425 nailhead dom~1965; and I was a terror with that beauty
 
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"When I moved here 20 years ago there where 3 lights from the state border to my Town - now there are 17" No doubt the population and the number of drivers has gone up. If you wanna go fast go to a track. Value your life and others and their loved ones who would have to live without them if the unthinkable happened . If the commute is bothersome move closer, leave earlier, telacommutte but please don't drive like that on the public roadways. I know everyone here is an outstanding driver ;\) but increasing the speed and the aggressive nature you suggest puts others at risk and I hope you can see past the way it used to be to accept the current reality. I don't care if you want to tear up your equipment off of a public roadway (I four wheel and enjoy pushing my equipment and skills too) But on a public roadway you are putting others at risk. And believe it or not, yourself at risk. I care if you or someone else gets hurt . I agree Cell phones and distractions should be illegal while driving. (I have made a personal commitment to never break the speed limit or talk on the cellphone while driving, it is not easy but for 6 months I have not busted my VDR in my worktruck nor broken these rules in my personal vehicles) Driving is the riskiest thing any of us do and I don't want to introduce extra risk into the activity. I hope you don't take this the wrong way. I am seriously concerned for your safety and those that care for you. Best of luck and sorry for being facetious in my original post, I am hopefull it doesn't alienate you from my true concern. Please be safe.
 
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""Used to drive an Electra 225 convertible with a 425 nailhead dom~1965; and I was a terror with that beauty"" OMG---the man must have a guardian angel From your description of the traffic patterns and stop lights, my guess is you live around Salm NH I think I'll skip the usual run to the NH sTate liquor store next time I am up that way Steve
 
 Originally Posted By: CROWNVIC4LIFE
 Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
[quote=ekpolk] /quote] I don't consider myself a thin head either. I keep waiting for the mass migration to the junkyard with tired engines.
Gary Allen do you use 5w20 in your vechiles?..Just wondering thats all.
So do you use 5w20 in your vechiles?
 
 Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
Your assumption is correct.. he uses a lower viscosity than a 20wt :) !!! He uses a 0w10in a jeep. No kidding.
Actually I think he is using 5w40.
 
You know what I find really funny? Is that there are a whole bunch of members that argue that 5w20 isn't good for protection of an engine BLAH BLAH BLAH, but then these same people swear by MMO and dump a quart of it in the crankcase with their favorite 30wt oil which then dilutes it down to a solid 20wt. Is it just me???
 
Bryanccfshr is correct. In my 2002 Wrangler SE 2.5 pushrod tractor engine ..I use Bruceblend® 0w-10 MolyFree Stealth Formula. In my wife's 4.0, I use Amsoil HDD 5w-30. 4.9 Cst I have used 5w-40 in both jeeps most of their lives. Delvac 1 in both. Agip PC 5w-40 and RTS in the 2.5. The RTS was used for two 13 month/9500 miles OCI's.
 
 Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Bryanccfshr is correct. In my 2002 Wrangler SE 2.5 pushrod tractor engine ..I use Bruceblend® 0w-10 MolyFree Stealth Formula. In my wife's 4.0, I use Amsoil HDD 5w-30. 4.9 Cst I have used 5w-40 in both jeeps most of their lives. Delvac 1 in both. Agip PC 5w-40 and RTS in the 2.5. The RTS was used for two 13 month/9500 miles OCI's.
OK...Thanks
 
 Originally Posted By: StevieC
You know what I find really funny? Is that there are a whole bunch of members that argue that 5w20 isn't good for protection of an engine BLAH BLAH BLAH, but then these same people swear by MMO and dump a quart of it in the crankcase with their favorite 30wt oil which then dilutes it down to a solid 20wt. Is it just me???
+1
 
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