I was just trying to point out that repairing the '06 properly will be nowhere near as cost prohibitive as repairing his '08 was.
502 and does it matter?
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Originally Posted by rooflessVW
I was just trying to point out that repairing the '06 properly will be nowhere near as cost prohibitive as repairing his '08 was.
Yes, all good mate. You know this stuff very well and your input is valuable to the OP.
I was more laughing at myself, I always end up getting the complex one and the big bills.
I was just trying to point out that repairing the '06 properly will be nowhere near as cost prohibitive as repairing his '08 was.
Yes, all good mate. You know this stuff very well and your input is valuable to the OP.
I was more laughing at myself, I always end up getting the complex one and the big bills.
Originally Posted by Audijim
Typo. have since switched to Mob One 0 W-40 which is "502" fat fingered the 501.
While I can read the specifications, I'm really looking for someone with actual experience with cam chain tensioner rattle typical of the Audi A8 4.2 V8 engine
Has anyone noticed any affect on the rattle with different oil?
Eventually, you have to replace tensioner.
That being said, yes there is difference.
First of all, Mobil1 0W40 and Castrol 0W40 are top tier oils cheaply available at Wal Mart. From my personal experience, with M1 0W40 and M1 5W30 EP (ILSAC GF-5 I use in my Toyota) they are noisier oils. However, per UOA I did, none showed any excessive wear, on contrary, UOA results were stellar.
Castrol is smoother and quieter. There are two Castrol's you should shoot at. 0W40 is know as extremely stout oil, readily available in Wal Mart. I have it right now in my VW Tiguan and used it in last 5 years.
Castrol 0W30 was holy grail among Euro owners from beginning of 2000's. Castrol kept it as top tier blend, but since then, it got bit watered down. Still, I would say it is best VW 502.00 oil you can get. Unfortunately, it is bit expensive, and goes on average around $58 on Amazon for 6qt. I got it for next OCI on Amazon on sale for $38. Would I pay $58 for that oil? No. Castrol 0W40 and 0W30 are pretty much toss up quality wise.
Another option is Castrol 5W40. And that is mediocre oil at best. I personally think it is POS. I always had rattle with that oil on my Passat B5.5 after 3-4k. Once I switched to 0W30, that disappeared. Never had that rattle with Mobil1 0W40, Pennzoil 5W40, as I tried all those oils in 1.8T engine. Only with Castrol 5W40.
So, I highly doubt your rattle will be gone. You can try Castrol, and it would be great if it is gone, but highly doubt.
Typo. have since switched to Mob One 0 W-40 which is "502" fat fingered the 501.
While I can read the specifications, I'm really looking for someone with actual experience with cam chain tensioner rattle typical of the Audi A8 4.2 V8 engine
Has anyone noticed any affect on the rattle with different oil?
Eventually, you have to replace tensioner.
That being said, yes there is difference.
First of all, Mobil1 0W40 and Castrol 0W40 are top tier oils cheaply available at Wal Mart. From my personal experience, with M1 0W40 and M1 5W30 EP (ILSAC GF-5 I use in my Toyota) they are noisier oils. However, per UOA I did, none showed any excessive wear, on contrary, UOA results were stellar.
Castrol is smoother and quieter. There are two Castrol's you should shoot at. 0W40 is know as extremely stout oil, readily available in Wal Mart. I have it right now in my VW Tiguan and used it in last 5 years.
Castrol 0W30 was holy grail among Euro owners from beginning of 2000's. Castrol kept it as top tier blend, but since then, it got bit watered down. Still, I would say it is best VW 502.00 oil you can get. Unfortunately, it is bit expensive, and goes on average around $58 on Amazon for 6qt. I got it for next OCI on Amazon on sale for $38. Would I pay $58 for that oil? No. Castrol 0W40 and 0W30 are pretty much toss up quality wise.
Another option is Castrol 5W40. And that is mediocre oil at best. I personally think it is POS. I always had rattle with that oil on my Passat B5.5 after 3-4k. Once I switched to 0W30, that disappeared. Never had that rattle with Mobil1 0W40, Pennzoil 5W40, as I tried all those oils in 1.8T engine. Only with Castrol 5W40.
So, I highly doubt your rattle will be gone. You can try Castrol, and it would be great if it is gone, but highly doubt.
Originally Posted by Audios
Cam tensioner rattle has always been an issue with Audis design, its not that bad of a job, and if you dont mind wrenching then its not horrible. The trick is to leave the belt driven cam in, and "roll" the opposite cam out, leaving the timing set on the belt driven gear cam. Swap tensioner, then get the cam back in time. Off the top of my head on my older 1.8t it was exhaust cam is driven byt the t belt and intake is chain driven off the exhaust cam, so I would unbolt the intake cam, and slide it out, marking it against the chain. Reassemble and turn over a few times by hand to make sure its timed. Probably a good time for timing belt and all though, youll need the locking bar for that one though.
Edit: My cheap brother bought a 2.8 passat with the timing rattle and ran 15/40 or 10/40 in the winter, said it helped, plus was very cheap. Only went 5k on it, no issues up to 230k.
Replacing the tensioner on the 1.8 which is a 4 cyl, is a tough job. Doing it on the 4.2 V8, is a quantum leap of effort which is more than I want to tackle. Perhaps if I were 10-20 yrs younger (I'm 74).
However, I'm curious about the approach your cheap brother did with the 2.8 V6, which is similar to the V8. Now, here's the really tough question. Is there a synthetic oil in 15/40 or 10/40 which is VW 502 compliant?
Cam tensioner rattle has always been an issue with Audis design, its not that bad of a job, and if you dont mind wrenching then its not horrible. The trick is to leave the belt driven cam in, and "roll" the opposite cam out, leaving the timing set on the belt driven gear cam. Swap tensioner, then get the cam back in time. Off the top of my head on my older 1.8t it was exhaust cam is driven byt the t belt and intake is chain driven off the exhaust cam, so I would unbolt the intake cam, and slide it out, marking it against the chain. Reassemble and turn over a few times by hand to make sure its timed. Probably a good time for timing belt and all though, youll need the locking bar for that one though.
Edit: My cheap brother bought a 2.8 passat with the timing rattle and ran 15/40 or 10/40 in the winter, said it helped, plus was very cheap. Only went 5k on it, no issues up to 230k.
Replacing the tensioner on the 1.8 which is a 4 cyl, is a tough job. Doing it on the 4.2 V8, is a quantum leap of effort which is more than I want to tackle. Perhaps if I were 10-20 yrs younger (I'm 74).
However, I'm curious about the approach your cheap brother did with the 2.8 V6, which is similar to the V8. Now, here's the really tough question. Is there a synthetic oil in 15/40 or 10/40 which is VW 502 compliant?
Originally Posted by Audijim
Originally Posted by Audios
Cam tensioner rattle has always been an issue with Audis design, its not that bad of a job, and if you dont mind wrenching then its not horrible. The trick is to leave the belt driven cam in, and "roll" the opposite cam out, leaving the timing set on the belt driven gear cam. Swap tensioner, then get the cam back in time. Off the top of my head on my older 1.8t it was exhaust cam is driven byt the t belt and intake is chain driven off the exhaust cam, so I would unbolt the intake cam, and slide it out, marking it against the chain. Reassemble and turn over a few times by hand to make sure its timed. Probably a good time for timing belt and all though, youll need the locking bar for that one though.
Edit: My cheap brother bought a 2.8 passat with the timing rattle and ran 15/40 or 10/40 in the winter, said it helped, plus was very cheap. Only went 5k on it, no issues up to 230k.
Replacing the tensioner on the 1.8 which is a 4 cyl, is a tough job. Doing it on the 4.2 V8, is a quantum leap of effort which is more than I want to tackle. Perhaps if I were 10-20 yrs younger (I'm 74).
However, I'm curious about the approach your cheap brother did with the 2.8 V6, which is similar to the V8. Now, here's the really tough question. Is there a synthetic oil in 15/40 or 10/40 which is VW 502 compliant?
Castrol Edge 10W40 I think is VW 502.00.
Mobil1 10W40 High Mileage is not VW502.00 but it is in compliance with ACEA A3. VW 502.00 is not particularly stringent specification. Most important specification of those Euro ones is MB 229.5, MB 229.51 (C3 oils) or MB 229.52 (also C3 oils).
Originally Posted by Audios
Cam tensioner rattle has always been an issue with Audis design, its not that bad of a job, and if you dont mind wrenching then its not horrible. The trick is to leave the belt driven cam in, and "roll" the opposite cam out, leaving the timing set on the belt driven gear cam. Swap tensioner, then get the cam back in time. Off the top of my head on my older 1.8t it was exhaust cam is driven byt the t belt and intake is chain driven off the exhaust cam, so I would unbolt the intake cam, and slide it out, marking it against the chain. Reassemble and turn over a few times by hand to make sure its timed. Probably a good time for timing belt and all though, youll need the locking bar for that one though.
Edit: My cheap brother bought a 2.8 passat with the timing rattle and ran 15/40 or 10/40 in the winter, said it helped, plus was very cheap. Only went 5k on it, no issues up to 230k.
Replacing the tensioner on the 1.8 which is a 4 cyl, is a tough job. Doing it on the 4.2 V8, is a quantum leap of effort which is more than I want to tackle. Perhaps if I were 10-20 yrs younger (I'm 74).
However, I'm curious about the approach your cheap brother did with the 2.8 V6, which is similar to the V8. Now, here's the really tough question. Is there a synthetic oil in 15/40 or 10/40 which is VW 502 compliant?
Castrol Edge 10W40 I think is VW 502.00.
Mobil1 10W40 High Mileage is not VW502.00 but it is in compliance with ACEA A3. VW 502.00 is not particularly stringent specification. Most important specification of those Euro ones is MB 229.5, MB 229.51 (C3 oils) or MB 229.52 (also C3 oils).
Just to chime back in, the 2003 Audi I previously mentioned is a 2.7L Turbo V-6. FWIW I think the VW/Audi 502 oil standard IS important. My Audi was taken to a European car specialist shop before I started working on it an the records indicate that the shop used Mobil 5w-40 in it. I don't know what version oil that was but it made the engine run rough and noisy after only 3000 miles.
I changed that mystery Mobil oil out for some 502 spec Mobil 1 0w-40 FS and the engine was quiet and buttery smooth afterwards.
I changed that mystery Mobil oil out for some 502 spec Mobil 1 0w-40 FS and the engine was quiet and buttery smooth afterwards.
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