50/50 Group IV/Group II, or 100% Group III ?

[Eiron]

Like most folks here, I'm trying to strike a balance between cost & protection. I'm looking for something that will protect for 10,000 miles/1 yr in a 2.0L 4 cyl N/A engine with a 4 qt sump.

I'm confident I can go this distance with a "premium" Group IV full syn, but want to explore other options that cost less & won't leave me "penny-wise & pound-foolish." So, I've been thinking about using 50% Group IV PCMO & 50% Group II HDMO. Then I wondered if a decent Group III HDMO would be better or worse than my imagined blend? Then I spent 1/2 hour staring at meaningless marketing blurbs on the backs of jumbo jugs of oil, trying to "decode" their "real" meanings ...

Can anyone help me with my self-imposed dilemma?

 

[Motorbike]

I am guessing this is a Saab engine .

My thoughts in terms of cost effectiveness it would be not only risky business to make some brew mixture and hope it to perform from - 0F to above 90F where you live the near same would hold true to step into a 10k drain interval with a fully formulated synlube without a quick look through analysis at say 7 months . The cost of the analysis alone offsets using one of the great blends available currently and changing oil and filter at 6 months - 6k miles .

Regardless of oil used the engine will need be a good one or the combustion pariculates will kill the chance of 10k drain interval with any oil unless it's all hiway and put on rather quickly .

The 4 quart sump should be taken into consideration as well .

 

[Al]

Well..you really shouldn't go 10K miles on any oil (IMHO) without an oil analysis. Buildup of insolubles,small antifreeze leak, or blowby gasses or some other problem will manifast themselves regardless of the oil. In a 4 quart sump assuming $5 for Group IV and $1.50 for HDMO you have saved an astounding $7 over the course of a year with your combination.

Since you should change the filter at 5K anyway (that's a wash) You would be better off going with almost any oil and just changing oil while you are removing the filter. Not really worth the brain power spent. Your wear particles/contamination will on the averabe be better with changing at 5K than 10K. Very few on this board have the courage and fortitude to go 10K mile oci.

 

[TooSlick]

It's not a serious question and here's why ....

If you can't afford $20.00-$30.00 for oil every 10,000 miles, then you can't afford the SAAB turbo either and you should sell it and get a Mt. bike.

Take into account car payments and/or depreciation, insurance, annual fuel costs and other maintenance and repair costs. The cost of even an ultra-premium, $7.00/qt synthetic like the Mobil 1R is down in the noise level.

Furthermore, using a friction modified, 0w-30 PAO/Ester synthetic will save you a significant amount in fuel, particularly with the winters in Colorado. My local customers running 0w-30 synthetics are saving 3%-5% on fuel annually, compared to running a 10w-30 or 15w-40 conventional oil. I've seen similar fuel savings in my personal vehicles .... I can honestly say I wouldn't go back to using conventional oil and 3000-5000 mile oil/filter changes if you gave me the stuff for free, since I'd still have the labor of changing it and cleaning up the mess afterwards. With three vehicles and several pieces of lawn/garden equipment, all I'd be doing is changing oil.

If you had a large fleet of vehicles and were looking to save a little money, I'd recommend using the Delo 400, 5w-40 commercial engine oil in warm to hot weather and Mobil 1, 0w-30 or 5w-30 during the winter. I think a good GP III, 5w-40 with a TBN of 12 might last for 10,000 miles in an older SAAB under highway driving conditions ....you can get a GP III oil in 55 gallon drums for approx $2.50/qt, which is not a bad deal.

Tooslick
www.lubedealer.com/Dixie_Synthetics

 

[Eiron]

Thanks guys:

Motorbike,
Yes, I was planning to do some UOAs on any mix I’d create, but only to establish if the oil’s holding up. It's not something I'd do for the life of the vehicle. I don’t change my filters at 5k mi/6 mos, so that’s not part of the plan.

Al,
The savings are long term (5-10 yrs) & for two cars. When you're out of a job, even small savings over long periods of time add up. I haven't seen a trend in any UOAs which show that longer drain intervals create more wear particles. Yes, more particles accumulate over longer intervals, but that's not the same as generating more wear. I also "need" to extend my OCIs out to 10k miles. For my own conscience.

Ted,
Actually, this was a serious question. My reasoning was to make the most of the least. I have no desire to dump oil that still has the ability to do its job. If Amsoil can protect for 25k miles, why would I dump it after only 10k? Neither of these cars are turbocharged (although yes, they're both Saabs), & one cost less than the last bicycle I bought. And I have no place to store my bike, much less a 55 gal drum of oil.

__________


I appreciate the responses. It's made me realize I'm trying to get too little to do too much. It's funny in a way. A year ago I was convinced that "premium" Group IV syn was the only thing I was comfortable running for 10k miles in any of my cars. Then, after spending so much time here & reading the experiences of others, I began to think that other, less expensive oils would do just as good of a job under certain conditions. I guess I'm thinking about it too much, eh?

 

[dustyjoe1]

This kind of thinnking can drive you nuts bud. I've thought about it a bit myself actually. I would love to find an oil that can go 10k and is reasonably priced. When in the oil field we had a case where GTX 20-50 was run for 12k with no problem, but that was a fluke. I gave up on 10k. Instead i am shooting for 8 to 9 k , a little less but gives a sense of security, with oils like m1 or torco. Who knows, it I see no problems I might go all the way up to 10. Pretty sure you can take Havoline synthetic g3 up to about 8k (ive taken that one to 7) Point is. Maybe you can't get 10k initially without sweating but 8k is not too shabby. AND no filter change. Just a little food for thought.

r.