5.7 Started ticking: Best band aid?

wtd

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southwest Mo.
In 2013 a friend of mine bought a new Challenger RT with the 5.7. It had the tick from day one. A couple of months later I went to look at a new 2013 Challenger with the same engine to possibly buy and it had the tick too.
 
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Rislone with Pennzoil Platinum HM. Not Yellow Bottle or conventional HM.. May need a 2nd treatment with another oil change at about 4K. No guarantees. But Rislone has never failed to quiet things for me.
 
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I stopped my hemi tick with 5W30 in the winter and 5W40 in the summer. Stay away from 5W20 it's strictly for fuel economy. Just like all the overhead cam Ford motors all last longer with 5w30. Also I noticed a quality filter makes a big difference. I had bad lifter tick at start up starting at 20k but experiment with different filters.
 

Greg L

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My OCI is every 4,000 miles..with the Pennzoil. I have only used manufacture recommendation of the 5w20 year round....irregardless of this recent tick. I should note that this is a Chrysler MDS 5.7 Hemi (Multi Displacement System) engine with switches from 4 to 8 cylinders for economy mode. According to the owner's manual, it requires only 5w20 for an MDS engine. I haven't tried a 5w30, because of this.
 
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Originally Posted by Greg L
My OCI is every 4,000 miles..with the Pennzoil. I have only used manufacture recommendation of the 5w20 year round....irregardless of this recent tick. I should note that this is a Chrysler MDS 5.7 Hemi (Multi Displacement System) engine with switches from 4 to 8 cylinders for economy mode. According to the owner's manual, it requires only 5w20 for an MDS engine. I haven't tried a 5w30, because of this.
You can use a 40 grade and the MDS will still function as intended.
 
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Well hopefully the people can see a conventional 5w20 on one of the hardest engines as for as ticking has gone over 150k. For what it's worth I have seen numerous engines over the years that on PYB will not have any problems until 150k. We have a Kia that was on PYB and it is at 188k if I am not mistaking. I think from what I am told engine might be destroyed but not from oil but from lack of oil. Started using oil just in last year so we can't complain.
 
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Originally Posted by tiger862
Well hopefully the people can see a conventional 5w20 on one of the hardest engines as for as ticking has gone over 150k. For what it's worth I have seen numerous engines over the years that on PYB will not have any problems until 150k. We have a Kia that was on PYB and it is at 188k if I am not mistaking. I think from what I am told engine might be destroyed but not from oil but from lack of oil. Started using oil just in last year so we can't complain.
Pennzoil is a high quality product no one with a sound mind will disagree with this.
 
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yeah there is zilch prove that running a 30 or 40 wt prevents or delays the 5.7 valve train issue compared to 20wt. will redline or other oil quiet the tick? yep, but this is strictly a design/material flaw that no oil will resolve or prevent.
 
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Originally Posted by earthbound
yeah there is zilch prove that running a 30 or 40 wt prevents or delays the 5.7 valve train issue compared to 20wt. will redline or other oil quiet the tick? yep, but this is strictly a design/material flaw that no oil will resolve or prevent.
there is also zilch proof that using a thicker oil from the beginning, would not have prevented it from developing into a problem. One thing I think most can agree on is that once the damage is done - it's not going to get 'fixed' with oil.
 
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Originally Posted by earthbound
yeah there is zilch prove that running a 30 or 40 wt prevents or delays the 5.7 valve train issue compared to 20wt. will redline or other oil quiet the tick? yep, but this is strictly a design/material flaw that no oil will resolve or prevent.
Some long term uoa's suggest that when you kill the tick, the wear goes down exponentially. Blackstone thread at ram forum is proof, hemi395's long term uoa's showed as his tick was killed his wear is near perfect for a hemi. It is at least possible the issue is resolved or lessened when you adequately lubricate the issue. So that is the choice, do I use an oil that makes my truck tick, or use one that kills the tick and lessens wear? It isn't a big deal to try another oil once to see if your tick goes away, especially when the alternative is to continue to use something that isn't working for you, unless you like your engine knocking.
 
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On the 5.7 Hemi, the tick is not something to worry about as long as you run the correct oil with proper OCI's. From experience I can tell you, worry more about the FCA product around the engine compartment disintegrating more than that Hemi.
 
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Originally Posted by ejes
On the 5.7 Hemi, the tick is not something to worry about as long as you run the correct oil with proper OCI's. From experience I can tell you, worry more about the FCA product around the engine compartment disintegrating more than that Hemi.
What we're discussing is what the correct oil is, to lessen the tick that occurs. Proof is in the pudding. Moly helps. Thicker oils help. Red Line seems to work the best. If I had that hemi, I'd use Red Line. So it costs me an extra $50-$75 per year..... no biggie, not since that vehicle cost me $40+K to begin with. If you are leasing it for 2-3 years, then use what's recommended in the owners manual religiously. Otherwise, do what others have found success with, while staying in the recommended viscosity range and OCI length range..... which I recommend be short. None of my vehicles see longer than 5K OCIs.
 
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Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by earthbound
yeah there is zilch prove that running a 30 or 40 wt prevents or delays the 5.7 valve train issue compared to 20wt. will redline or other oil quiet the tick? yep, but this is strictly a design/material flaw that no oil will resolve or prevent.
there is also zilch proof that using a thicker oil from the beginning, would not have prevented it from developing into a problem. One thing I think most can agree on is that once the damage is done - it's not going to get 'fixed' with oil.
and stick around i'll let you know if it happens to me. i've used 5w30 from day one so far,albeit only 6mos in from purchase...
 
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I have a few Hemi's, one literally rattles like a diesel when it's cold and it doesn't go away completely when warm, one ticks when it's cold and comes off fast idle but the tick goes away if you goose the throttle a couple times, if you let it idle it will come back, completely goes away when warm. The third sounds fine. I have tried a few synthetics. M1 makes them noisier than Valvoline Synthetic and Napa Synthetic and QSUD. Rislone, Lucas Synthetic, STP synthetic, Marvel Mystery Oil and Hyperlube additives make no difference at all. Running 5-30, 10-30, 10-40 no difference either. The only oil I found that makes them quieter is Havoline DS Synthetic 5-20. And it is very noticeable. Any ideas why?
 
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TiGeo

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Originally Posted by jeepman3071
I used Liqui-moly MoS2 in my dad's 2013 Grand Cherokee 5.7 with 150k and it was a bit quieter. It ticks a bit when cold, but warmed up it hasn't made any noise. The MoS2 helped with the cold tick. Currently running Castrol 0w40 for 10k mile changes (sees all highway) and it has been pretty quiet so far. I only started with the MoS2 with the last oil change to test it, figuring it wouldn't make a difference. I might try the Redline next change or the Liqui-moly oil that is supposed to contain the ceratec additive already (their MolyGen oil I believe?).
Molygen does not contain Ceratec as the friction modifier. Ceratec is a 2-part product and contains both a solid and chemical component. My testing shows it's molybdenum and boron. Molygen contains a chemical friction modifier only they call "MFC" - Molecular Friction Control...tungsten and molybdenum. They do not recommend running an additional product (MoS2 or Ceratec) with it.
 
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