40,000 mile + UOA Pennzoil LL + LC

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This is this "Same oil" as I sample in July of 2004 with 24000 mile on it http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001757#000000


I finally cracked the drain plug this time and changed the full flow filter

The car a 1995 Nissan altima with motor guard bypass providid by Ralph wood oil originally pennzoil Long Life 15w 40 this time though whenever i changed the TP filter I decided to just use "whatever" was around ..so times that was Exxon 20w 50 and few times it was Rottela sea30 and the last time it was mobile 1 0w 20 ( clearance $2.00
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) this is what Blacksone said

Wear in this sample continues to read low compared to averages, and the metals were
generally the same as found in the first sample. Your oil use interval may be a new record for this type
engine, for one of our samples. Nothing was high enough to suspect a mechanical problem. The
viscosity was mildly high, reading in the range we would expect for a 10W/30 or 10W/40. We found
no harmful contaminants in the oil that would cause a viscosity shift. You could easily add miles to the
oil use if nothing changes. Nice wearing Nissan. Nice working bypass system!

Fisrt row is the last time at over 24000 and the second row is this time at over 40000 ..the odometer in mycar is broke so these are best guess ( on the low side)


code:

Aluminum 2 2

CHROMIUM 0 1



IRON 5 5

COPPER 2 3

LEAD 1 1

TIN 0 1

MOLYBDENUM 34 38

NICKEL 0 0

MANGANESE 1 0

SILVER 0 0

TITANIUM 0 0

POTASSIUM 0 0

BORON 14 23

SILICON 3 6

SODIUM 4 1

CALCIUM 2562 1705

MAGNESIUM 7 8

PHOSPHORUS 914 652

ZINC 1091 740

BARIUM 0 0


hope it lines up sorry if it doesn't
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40K. Amazing. Looks like that bypass has paid for itself a few times over.

"All hail the new king of UOA's..."

sarcasm=on
"You must have a TON of sludge in that engine if you ran Pennzoil for 40K."
sarcasm=off
 
In one word - "amazing."

For the sake of curiosity, how might one be able to tell if there was antifreeze in the crankcase without having an oil analysis done? Would it be as simple as noting a frothy appearence in the oil, once having ruled out the crankcase breather system and blow-by gases during cold, short trip operation? How might a bypass have an effect in such a case?

Again, amazing results D.! But I have to ask, what made you decide to finally drain the oil?
 
well I decided to drain the oil because it had been almost 2 years! My place of work is going to change locations...I will no longer have to commute 32 miles each way...yeah! I will commute 7 miles each way ..yeah ...so my oil will barely heat up. I figure I would at least start with a fresh batch in there as long as my milage accumulation was going to drop off. I will also be able to ride my motorcycle much more often so i don't even know if my car will ht the 300000 i though it would ...I may rust out first....
 
quote:

Originally posted by Curious Kid:
In one word - "amazing."

For the sake of curiosity, how might one be able to tell if there was antifreeze in the crankcase without having an oil analysis done? Would it be as simple as noting a frothy appearence in the oil, once having ruled out the crankcase breather system and blow-by gases during cold, short trip operation? How might a bypass have an effect in such a case?

Again, amazing results D.! But I have to ask, what made you decide to finally drain the oil?


There isn't a good way to tell with the lower amounts that can still cause severe damage to the engine. You can see it as gunk in the oil fill/valve area but thats beyond where you probably have increased wear/damage to the engine. That's just an opinion though.

There is always the "white smoke" to look for in the exhaust
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viscosity was 67.6 no tbn was ran ...I have done it be before and the worst it seemed to get was cut in half from virgin after 28000 on mobile 1. the reason for the higher viscosity would be, of the last 5 tp changes 2 of them were refilled with a 20w 50 oil
 
BTW with wear metel that low...do you really think there is a TBN problem?

also have been running LC ounce or so every 1000 miles ( fuel power in the gas too) insoulubules were .4%
 
I don't think you can compare wear metals on a bypass filter setup, it's likely filtering them out.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Al:

quote:

Originally posted by Curious Kid:
In one word - "amazing."

For the sake of curiosity, how might one be able to tell if there was antifreeze in the crankcase without having an oil analysis done? Would it be as simple as noting a frothy appearence in the oil, once having ruled out the crankcase breather system and blow-by gases during cold, short trip operation? How might a bypass have an effect in such a case?

Again, amazing results D.! But I have to ask, what made you decide to finally drain the oil?


There isn't a good way to tell with the lower amounts that can still cause severe damage to the engine. You can see it as gunk in the oil fill/valve area but thats beyond where you probably have increased wear/damage to the engine. That's just an opinion though.

There is always the "white smoke" to look for in the exhaust
smile.gif


With the motorguard BP filter system installed, the way to test for a coolant leak (into the oil stream) is to look at the top part of the old TP roll. If the tp roll top is warped then the Motorguard is absorbing lots of water. This gives you a fairly effective warning to check your coolant system. When you buy a Frantz, which is also a bypass filter that uses TP, they also include a paper that illustrates what looks good/ doesn't look good on used TP roll. Also, metallic flakes get stuck on the top of TP roll. The only time I have seen metal was on my first TP change - that was 12k miles ago. I'm running this on a '95 SL2 Saturn.
 
quote:

Originally posted by deepsquat:
BTW with wear metel that low...do you really think there is a TBN problem?

also have been running LC ounce or so every 1000 miles ( fuel power in the gas too) insoulubules were .4%


The wear metals are not low, they are practically non-existent. If the PPM are being pick up by the filter then the wear numbers mean nothing, the engine could be self destructing and you would not know it.

If the wear numbers are correct and comnparable to other UOAs then there is practically no wear going on at all. An equally difficult position to accept.
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Deepsquat,

How much makeup oil do you add after you change the TP filters every 3k-5k miles?

thanks!

TS
 
sometimes it takes less then a quart sometimes more then a quart ...my car leaks( valve cover gasket)..perhaps ..burns a vey small amount of oil ...doesn't leak enough to stain the drivway , but enough to leave a residue under my engine ...I wouldn't eat off of it!
I also find it depend on the type of TP I use ...I have experimented..the Rite-Aide single ply or scott is best ...though sometimes i have not been able to get it on the center shaft ..and had to run in the house and use whatever was avalible ...Safeway brand Softly double ply ..not very good...cottenell not too bad....my last roll was rite aid single ply and I must admit when I changed and drained the oil I was amazed at how clean the filter/TP was ...usually it is black...this time it was only an amber color...the proof was in the analasis!
 
Driving 32 miles each way, filtering synthetic oil with a tp by-pass. Sounds like a perfect scenario for oil in a UOA.

My observations.

1) It's interesting that we still have doubters. Where was it that I read of an engine tear down, after running long warm engine miles with a by-pass filter and synthetic oil that the total wear was determined not to be measurable? It looks like that is what we see here.

2) With your new 7 mile trip your next results won't be this good, tough still will be impressive.

3) With these low of numbers at these high of miles, the particle rate per thousand would be interesting.

4) Do we need to establish a new particle rate for by-pass UOA? Or is that not possible?

5) This is in fact a measure of how clean this oil has been as it lubricated your engine for 40,000 miles.
 
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