3rd analysis on Mobil 1 tri-synthetic

[wtd]

Just got back my 3rd analysis and it was worse than my last one. This was 5W-30 Mobil 1 Tri-synthetic. Oil had 3,010 miles on it and truck had 40,546 miles on it. Blackstone labs did the analysis. Here is what they said in their comments section.

WAYNE: We were hoping we'd be able to tell you that bearing wear and silicon improved, but they did not. Lead is not as high as it was in August of last year, but it's still higher than average and we're not sure why. If the silicon is abrasive dirt escaping air filtration, that could be affecting bearing wear. Suggest checking air filtration for leaks. Otherwise, we think you should stay at 3,000 miles and check back with your next oil change. Insoluables were on the high side at 0.5%. The TBN read 12.5, showing plenty of active additive left in the oil.

Aluminum--4
chromium--3
iron--18
copper--5
lead--43
tin--5
molybdenum--3
nickel--1
manganese--1
silver--0
titanium--0
potassium--3
boron--57
silicon--28
sodium--7
calcium--861
magnesium--1432
phosphorus--621
zinc--766
barium--0

SUS viscosity@210 F--61.8 (this is slightly outside normal range)
flashpoint in F--420
fuel%-- antifreeze%--0.0
water%--0.0
insolubles--0.5

As far as my silicon readings go, I have checked all my intake duct work and can find nothing open. Everything seems to be sealed good.

During this oil run, I pulled a loaded utility trailer a few times and used Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner and GM Top engine cleaner. I don't know if these factors had anything to do with my lead levels, how much insoluables were in the oil, or my increased viscosity. As before, I'm not sure what to think about this oil. I think I will probably try a different brand of oil and see what happens.

Do you guys think that this oil is not providing enough protection for my bearings or am I experiencing the beginning of a mechanical failure?

Wayne

 

[Patman]

That viscosity is still well within range, I don't know what Blackstone is talking about. It's 10.8cst at 100c. It's thickened a bit (this oil would've started at 10.0) but it's still nowhere near out of range.

I think you might need to switch to another oil (maybe even a 15w40 viscosity too) before you do anything else. Maybe you're just stressing this oil too much and need something thicker, or something with better barrier protection.

 

[MolaKule]

Patman said what I was thinking.

Increase the oil viscosity to a least a 10W30.

I in my opinion, I would never run a 5W30 in a truck unless it was Amsoil 5W30 HDD, and only in the winter.

You may be going from hydrodynamic lubrication to mixed lubrication or boundary lubrication with this thin a lube in the truck engine.

ANy report on oil usage or replinishment (top-off)?

 

[Al]

I certainly agree with Patman (for what its worth). With the low pour point of M1 (comparatively)..no earthly reason to use 0W or 5W (IMHO) I will have an analysis in a couple of months on my Sentra where after 5K (M1 10W-30) I changed filters and drained enough oil to add the 15W-50 (M1). I wasn't going to do an analysis but my curiosity is getting the better of me.

 

[VaderSS]

It seems to me that a 5W30 synthetic would still be better than a 10W30 conventional. I agree that a 10W30 would be more stable, but to say that you'd never run 5W30 in a truck, when I assume you would run a 10W30 conventional, is a bit of a blanket statement.

 

[den]

You woudnt happen to be running a K@N type air filter would you?

 

[widman]

I would look seriously at the air filter and gaskets. Hopefully you are not using high pressure air to clean it as I see every day. That just opens the pores.
I'll open a can of worms with my next thought, but for hauling I would want more anti-wear (higher zinc and phosphourus)to protect those bearings. If you are stuck on synthetics, find one with better levels. Personally I like Delo with 1500 ppm zinc.

 

[wtd]

The reason I run 5W-30 is because thats the recommended weight for this engine. I figured running a synthetic 5W-30 would give me all of the protection I need. Is the general consensus that, this weight is too light for this engine and truck?

I did not add any oil during the 3,000 miles. The truck used about 1/2 quart or a little less during this time. This is the same amount it has used since new.

As for Air filtration, I use a Hi-capacity AC-Delco paper filter in the stock air box. I don't use and have never used a K & N type filter on this truck. I do not use pressurized air to clean it out. The filter is fairly new and hardly dirty.

I have inspected all of the intake tubing and gaskets and all look to be sealing good. Wouldn't some of my other metal wear be higher if this silicon readings are from dirt?

I plan on switching to Schaffer's after the current oil is done to see if my results get better.

Any other ideas or comments? Thanks,

Wayne

 

[Bio-T]

wtd,
I am not sure what type sealing surfaces you have on your air cleaner housing ect. One thing I do is use a white grease (Dow Corning 55M Molykote) and put a very liberal amount on the top and bottom of the air cleaner. Any white marine grease if you can't find the Dow Corning. Then when you pull the top of the air cleaner off you can see if dirt is bypassing, bottom also. I had a warped housing on my Ford, and found it this way. At your mileage, any silicon leaching from engine gaskets should have subsided by now.
Try the grease suggestion, inexpensive and helps stop gaps for dust ect. to flow through.

 

[VaderSS]

If you look in your manual, it will probably say something to the effect of, 5W30 recommended for all temps, 10W30 allowed above 0C. My personal opinion is that 10W30 gives more protection and is more stable than 5W30. However, as I said above, I believe that a true synthetic such as Mobil 1 in 5W30, gives better protection than a 10W30 conventional OTC oil. I plan on switching to 10W30 at the next oil change. I am seriously considering switching to Schaeffer's blend at that time.

 

[wtd]

I had an intake gasket replacement done at about 24,000 miles. I know they used a silicon type sealant on the front and rear of the block. I don't know if all of it would have leached out by now.

I'll try the white grease tip and see if that helps.

I will probably try switching to a 10W-30 next oil change to see if that helps also.

Thanks for all of the replies.

Wayne

 

[widman]

I like the idea of the grease to check contact. I once lost a brand new engine because someone put in a filter that "looked" like the original, but the original had rubber on both sides to seat against the metal, the new filter had metal and expected the housing to have the gasket.

 

[VaderSS]

quote:

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I've got the intake leak on my LT1 as well (

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Had mine replaced at 46k, yes, very common problem.

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by VaderSS:

quote:

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I've got the intake leak on my LT1 as well (

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Had mine replaced at 46k, yes, very common problem.

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Yep, my old 95TA had the intake leak as well, and the fix didn't take either, it started leaking again about 6 months later.

 

[Patman]

I've got the intake leak on my LT1 as well (seems to be a common 350 problem!) and I'm worried about when I get it fixed, if it will screw up my upcoming oil analysis results. I actually went out and bought this sealer stuff today which supposedly works with gas and oil and I'm just going to try putting a bunch of this stuff on the outside of the intake first just to see if the leak lessens somewhat. I hate the thought of having to tear the upper part of the motor apart (although I would like to see how clean it looks)

 

[Spector]

As this is the third analysis on this engine with the same oil you have now established a trend. This trend appears to be either stablized or getting slightly better results. It appears to me you are trying to match someone elses magic results, either Blackstones or some numbers that you think are proper. the higher numbers do not mean that engine will not go 200,000 + miles. Now that the trend is there it is the abnormalities you should be looking for in the future over this established trend and not trying to match someone elses numbers who have different engines and driving conditions use different additives etc.

 

[MolaKule]

Spector has wise sayings here.

Look for trends after the baseline. Especially during the early miles on an engine, certain wear metals may be elevated (but not necessarily high for this partucular engine). Not all engines are designed and built the same, and driving conditions affect wear.

While the 5W30 may be specified for CAFE purposes, and I would use it only for the warranty period, the Mobil 1 5W30 being on the thinner side of 30W, but nonetheless, a good oil for the warranty period. The regime I use and have had good success using, is run a 10W30 synthetic in the summer and a 5W30 synthetic in the winter.