3k oil change with yb or 6k with pp?

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So I put a fram sure drain on my wifes honda element, makes oil changes a snap. I either want to run pennz yb for 3k and change the filter everyother time so every 6k or I want to run pennz platnium for 6k and change the filter every time. What do you think would be more bennificial to the engine? I'm leaning toward the yb every 3k since im ocd and once I hit 3k on any oil I'm itching to change it since thats waht I always have done untill recently.
 

ryland

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honda element, drives 20 miles each way to work in mixed city/highway, I have both honda A01 and A02 filters. The yb is $12 for 5 qts or $22 for 5qts so I'd only be spending 2 dollers more to run the yb but I'd be running cleaner oil and wouldent be stressing.
 
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I don't know how cold it gets in Portland during the winter. You can run YB during the summer, and run PP during the winter.
 

ryland

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 Originally Posted By: Billy007
I don't know how cold it gets in Portland during the winter. You can run YB during the summer, and run PP during the winter.
I had thought about that too. Then I could get easyer starts in the winter and the PP could clean out any gunk left behind from the conventinal. It honestly dosent get that cold here though and if I change every 3k there shouldent be any or very little gunk. So I dont know.
 
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Yellow bottle every 3000 miles. In an engine synthetic will do fine for extended drains. If a small problem is going on you do not know about 1. Antifreeze leak 2. fuel dilution 3. acid formation - Etc. 3000 mile oil changes will make your engine last much longer in my opinion. Also with 3000 mile oil changes you are seeing more often and more in tune with your vehicle if something changes. I know the new thing is 5000-7500 mile oil changes and some going 10,000-12,000. Pennzoil and 3000 mile changes will take you a long way. Any name brand and 3000 mile changes will take you a long way.
 
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the cold properties of conventional YB is more than good for Portland. If you want better cold properties, run 50% 5w20YB with 50% 5w30 YB. This will still give a hot cSt in the very thin 30 weight range, and outperform synthetic 5w30 in the cold. I routinely run "5w25" in engines calling for 5w30, even in summer. It gets down to -25 to -35 here in winter, then I run mix: 5w20 conv/ 5w30 synthetic. I like Pennzoil because it is easily available in 5w20, and is fantastic oil to boot, but synthetic is not needed in Portland.
 
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ryland

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 Originally Posted By: sweezy722
Yellow bottle every 3000 miles. In an engine synthetic will do fine for extended drains. If a small problem is going on you do not know about 1. Antifreeze leak 2. fuel dilution 3. acid formation - Etc. 3000 mile oil changes will make your engine last much longer in my opinion. Also with 3000 mile oil changes you are seeing more often and more in tune with your vehicle if something changes. I know the new thing is 5000-7500 mile oil changes and some going 10,000-12,000. Pennzoil and 3000 mile changes will take you a long way. Any name brand and 3000 mile changes will take you a long way.
Great points on the antifreeze and fuel dilution!
 Originally Posted By: scoobie
the cold properties of conventional YB is more than good for Portland. If you want better cold properties, run 50% 5w20YB with 50% 5w30 YB. This will still give a hot cSt in the very thin 30 weight range, and outperform synthetic 5w30 in the cold. I routinely run "5w25" in engines calling for 5w30, even in summer. It gets down to -25 to -35 here in winter, then I run mix: 5w20 conv/ 5w30 synthetic. I like Pennzoil because it is easily available in 5w20, and is fantastic oil to boot, but synthetic is not needed in Portland.
the honda takes 5w20 anyway eventhough the last few times I've used 0w30 amsoil. I love amsoil but just to parranoid to keep it in long enough to justify the price.
 

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 Originally Posted By: scoobie
the cold properties of conventional YB is more than good for Portland. If you want better cold properties, run 50% 5w20YB with 50% 5w30 YB. This will still give a hot cSt in the very thin 30 weight range, and outperform synthetic 5w30 in the cold. I routinely run "5w25" in engines calling for 5w30, even in summer. It gets down to -25 to -35 here in winter, then I run mix: 5w20 conv/ 5w30 synthetic. I like Pennzoil because it is easily available in 5w20, and is fantastic oil to boot, but synthetic is not needed in Portland.
Out performs synthetic 5w30 in the cold eh? M1 5w30 has a pour point of -48 PY 5w20 has a pour point of -39 M1 5w30 has a density at 15 degrees of 0.80 PY 5w20 has a density at 15 degrees of 0.862 I'm not seeing the "out performs" part of the above?
 
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I will make it easy on you. 6,000 mile oil changes using either oil would be fine. Change the filter every 6,000 miles also. **Where did you come up with 3,000 miles for the oil change and changing the filter every 3,000? That is a myth from the old days. Cars and oils are much better now. I vote for PP however.
 
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ryland

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 Originally Posted By: ZZman
I will make it easy on you. 6,000 mile oil changes using either oil would be fine. Change the filter every 6,000 miles also. **Where did you come up with 3,000 miles for the oil change and changing the filter every 3,000? That is a myth from the old days. Cars and oils are much better now. I vote for PP however.
Your right about the 3000 miles but I've done it for so long that I just cant kick the habit. The internal clock go's off in me about the time I hit 3k and tells me I need to change the oil.
 
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Yes it does outperform, compare apples to apples, we're talking Pennzoil. Pennzoil synthetic 5w30 MRV at -35C = 14,800 Pennzoil conventio 5w20 MRV at -35C = 12,400 Please don't quickly mix apples and oranges, the conventional 5w20 outperforms the synthetic 5w30 at -35C which is way colder than it ever gets in Portland. I don't waste my money on synthetic 5w20 because the conventional already is so fantastic. But for a winter mix, I mix it with synthetic 5w30 because a conventional 5w30 doesn't perform well enough where I live, and my engines call for a 30 weight, so i don't like to push things. I also plug my car in for 2 hours prior to start, and the engines really love this kind of pampering.
 
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ryland

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 Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
I can't imagine doing 3K oil changes on a honda, especially with Pennzoil. What is the mfg recommendation for severe service OCI? I wouldn't go less than that.
Honda says for normal use to replace every 10k and for severe every 5k but they also say to only replace the filter everyother time for both the normal and sever service! So to me that makes their reccomendation worthless in my mind. I cant imagine going 20k on the same filter! My bro has a mazda 323 he bought from an old lady who is a friend of our family. The car is a 1990 or 91. In the owners manual it says to use 10w30 and change every 7500 or something like that. The lady followed the manual and took it to the dealer everytime. The car smokes, burns tons of oil, and has visible engine sluge when you open the fill cap. I just dont put much stock in what honda or anyother company reccomends as far as oci's go.
 

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 Originally Posted By: scoobie
Yes it does outperform, compare apples to apples, we're talking Pennzoil. Pennzoil synthetic 5w30 MRV at -35C = 14,800 Pennzoil conventio 5w20 MRV at -35C = 12,400 Please don't quickly mix apples and oranges, the conventional 5w20 outperforms the synthetic 5w30 at -35C which is way colder than it ever gets in Portland. I don't waste my money on synthetic 5w20 because the conventional already is so fantastic. But for a winter mix, I mix it with synthetic 5w30 because a conventional 5w30 doesn't perform well enough where I live, and my engines call for a 30 weight, so i don't like to push things. I also plug my car in for 2 hours prior to start, and the engines really love this kind of pampering.
You said:
 Quote:
and outperform synthetic 5w30 in the cold.
You said nothing about it being PENNZOIL synthetic. If that's what you meant, then that is what you should have stated. Because M1 5w30 out performs both of them and is obviously a viable option, since it is just as readily available.
 
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I have a Mitsubishi Mirage, and my brother owned it - he used to change oil every 3000 KM! which is every 2000 miles!!! with conventional, AND change filter. I admit, it only has 200,000 miles on it (it's 15 years old), but does it ever run nice!!! That's a 1.5l 12 valve engine that puts out 94 horses, one of Mitsubishi's nicest engines. For up here in Canada, 5000KM is plenty, since we see a lot of cold starts. Besides, the crankcase is tiny - it holds 3.5 litres only (of course for that size of engine is plenty, but I am conserving resources, because I am driving a car that gets fantastic mileage, and it's not even a hybrid!!!)
 
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The thread was started with the person wanting to use Pennzoil, so that's why I said what I did. Obviously if U wish to spend more, you can get even better cold properties, from a more expensive manufacturer, but for my money, I like to buy things on sale, and I was finding YB at WallyMart for 10$ a jug with the coupon. The tiny differences in cold properties of the various synthetics is quite minor compared to the effects of prewarming an engine, even for one or two hours, and it's really nice to find such a superior oil for 10% a jug.
 
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 Originally Posted By: scoobie
The thread was started with the person wanting to use Pennzoil, so that's why I said what I did. Obviously if U wish to spend more, you can get even better cold properties, from a more expensive manufacturer, but for my money, I like to buy things on sale, and I was finding YB at WallyMart for 10$ a jug with the coupon. The tiny differences in cold properties of the various synthetics is quite minor compared to the effects of prewarming an engine, even for one or two hours, and it's really nice to find such a superior oil for 10% a jug.
I'd hardly call 9 degrees "tiny". BUT, after comparing the PP and PYB data sheets, I must say I can actually see your logic here. The 5w30 grades even have the same pour point.
 
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