383 Stroker with German Castrol 0w-30?

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I wonder what the Californians did in the days when straight 30w was the norm in an auto? Here where I live, southern Cal temps are like wintertime. Yet most everyone I talk to use a "XXw-30" without any problems, and yes, on SBC's, SBSC's, and Fords too. And as you may or may not know, most older vehicles here ( the ones NOT sitting in the yard), either have the origianl motor with xxw-30 and a kazillion miles on them or have rebuilt it into the rusted heaps that were in the yard. The origianl poster has done the responsible thing. he sent off his oil for analysis, and tried a product that has shown to almost be a 40w, and has nothing but good UOA's among a variety of engine types. And add to that, the 383 stroker is almost the same as the 400 sbc, in that both have the same stroke crank. the longevity issue usually only lies between using the '400' rods and modified pistons or using the '350' rods. If the 'design' is wrong, NO oil no matter what the weight will make a difference. There may be 'educated guesses', or not-so-informed guesses, and maybe even some BS, but there is alot of good here too, in both facts from MSDS, testing and so forth, and UOA's, which Do have at least some factual basis to them.

Ward, Don't you think you were alittle hard on the Beaver?

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Tim H;
Ok, my geography on the Golden State needs improving.
With 40F nights, and AM cold starts, 5W40 is safe.
Under normal driving conditions, in this case, a 10W30 will likely be ok 99% of the time too.
Is this a 5.7 or 6" rod engine?
What are the rod and main bearing clearances?
Which oil pump does it have?
Does this engine have the stock 4 quart oil pan?
An oil cooler?
Is this vehicle used for towing and heavy work?
How can we make an informed opinion with so little information?
Garbage in, garbage out.
Now about the 1% driving condition: a hot day, towing, up hill, in traffic, low octane gasoline, suspect 02 sensor, lean air fuel ratio, advanced ignition timing, ect ect
Is an XXW30 going to protect the engine in these conditions?
Maybe, could, might, perhaps.
Would a 5W40 synthetic?
Should, probably, likely.
A 15W50 synthetic?
Enter your opinion here________________.
 
I'm glad my post has sparked some interest. I will post my UOA as soon as I get it back. Remember, this will be analysis from the 5w-30 Mobil oil that I used for the first 4,000 miles of the engines life. To aid everybody heres some more info on the engine (as strokers can range from mild to wild) Mine is on the mild side.

Late model one piece rear main seal block
4340 forged Eagle 3.75" crank
4340 forged 5.7" Eagle H-beam rods
Speed Pro coated skirt hyperuetectic pistons
9.8 to 1 compression
5 quart (6 total cap.) Canton Oil pan w/ custom pickup and high volume pump
engine has stock tow-package oil cooler on side of radiator
engine is internally balanced
hyd. roller cam
roller rockers

I do not know main bearing clearences, as I had a respectable engine builder in town assemble the short block. The truck is not used for towing at all. I drive the vehicle everyday, and take it to the track every once in a while to see how it does. Engine will put down about 330 hp to the wheels......over 420 at the crank. (as I put down 317 with stock bottom 350, then it threw a rod)

Oil pressure (according to guage...not sure of accuracy) is at 60+ at cold starts, 35-40 at hot idle, and at 60+ at WOT. This is with the GC 0w-30. Oil pressure was actually a little less with Mobil 5w-30 oil. So I am fairly sure I have no pressure issues, unless the gauge is broken. But I bought and installed new oil pressure sensor on new engine. Hopefully this will help some of you with your advice and reccomendations. Any other questions are welcome also. Thanks
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silverado
Given the above information I believe that you made a good oil selection by using the CG 0W30 and a high flow filter.
Your pressure guage will tell you if you need an XXW40 when the hot weather arrives next year.
I certinally cannot imagine any down side by you switching to synthetic XXw40 for six months of the year.
 
Patman I have not had the opertunity to try GC yet. Castrol has not seen fit to distribute it yet in my area. Never mind that winter is comeing and I live in Michigan!

Depending on how the stroker was built they can put alot more stress on the bearings and rings. Lots of ZDDP, Moly, Boron, Antimony and Calcium are must haves in a stroker!!

Antimony is tested for by several UOA companys so is silver. We just do not see it often in our reports.

His 383 is probably carburated and running a preety radical cam(guessing) his fuel dilution is going to be too high to ever take advantage of synthetics extended drain cabability in most cases. The only reason for synthetic in the winter is for the quick flow and easy pumpability. It is just too cheap and easy to pick up a $6 gallon jug of Delvac1300,Delo400, or Pens Long Life at Walmart and changer every 3000 miles in this application!

I also do not trust Castrol not to pull the old "syntec bait and switch" trick!! You only have to lie to me for a few years and rape my wallet to loose my consumer confidence.

P.S. We should probably get more info on driveing cyle, ambient temps, environment etc...
 
Engine is fuel injected, and I am using the LT4 Hot Cam 219* intake, 228* exhaust @ .050" and .525" lift intk. and exh. Even in the summer with A.C. on and temps in the low 100's, high 90's, oil pressure would never go below 20 psi. (and thats in 105* heat at idle with A.C. on) I was using the 5w-30 mobil in those conditions, and like I said before, the pressure is a little higher with the GC. I am comfortable with my decision as oil pressure is very high (over 50 at cruise) and winter is coming. I am not against going to a xxw-40 when it gets hot if I need to. But if pressure stays good and UOA looks good I see no need to change in the future. We'll see.
 
Well this changes everything!!!! In this case if fuel dilution is not an issue and you have a clean running engine then go for the synthetics!!! If I had a modern strocker I think I would stick with Redline or Mobil-1. I listed them by my prefference. I would run a 5W40-15W50 in the sumer and either the 5W30 or 10W30 in the winter! If you decide to use M1 try sweetening the oil with Lube Control! I would run a filter biased towards flow over one biased towards filtration. We have alot of guys at work that use the hot cam, race preped heads, port and polish intake and then we reflash the pcm! This is a nice streetable combination!!!

What do you have it in?
 
It is in my 97 Chevy Silverado ext. cab short bed truck. PCM is reflashed by Ed Wright at Fastchip. I then fine tune the A/F ratio with a MAF translator on the dyno for optimum power. Thanks everybody for you .02 about what oil to reccomend, I've learned alot (and will continue to) I'm still open ears about what any one has to say!
 
by buster

"Mobil 1 makes my car sound like sh$t and my car is now 100Hp faster bc I use GC" is just opinion that is not based on any real fact and it then comes down to whether you want to believe that person.

I don't agree with the statement at all. I know the difference in how my engine sounds when using Mobil 1 compared to running a conventional oil. The loud ticking I had with Mobil 1 is not there with the conventional oil. This is not my opinion, its a fact. Mobil 1 is a good oil but its not for every engine.

wayne
 
JohnBrowning, the Castrol 0W-30 (German made) can be found at AutoZone Parts stores.
I have seen it mixed with the regular (USA) made GC 0W-30 oil, this is in the Detroit Metro area.

Silverado, did you buy the German made GC or the USa made GC 0W-30 oil?
The 'Made In USA' is not the same as 'German' made 0W-30, thought I would let you know.
 
GC stands for German Castrol....American made GC is an oxymoron. Why would I state that if the oil was made in the USA? It is the German made stuff
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(red label etc. etc.)

[ November 26, 2003, 06:00 PM: Message edited by: Silverado ]
 
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