30w

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 25, 2005
Messages
52
Location
Frisco, Tx.
Local farm store has Rotella, Delo, or Havoline all for about the same price in a 30 weight. What would be the best choice for my Briggs 16.5 hp riding mower?
 
All good oils you could mix all three and probably get the same results. I would say however that especially if your Briggs has no oil filter the most important thing is changing the oil at least as often as the manual reccomends. IMHO contaminants build up much more rapidly in an air cooled mower engine compared to an automotive engine.
 
rotella or delo..

While havoline is a great oil, the others will be a bit more robust in the add pack and likely thermal stability too... good for aircooled engines!

JMH
 
Rickey,
Can you expand on
"IMHO contaminants build up much more rapidly in an air cooled mower engine compared to an automotive engine."

Why? What are the factors?
thanks
 
^^^A lawn mower is run with dirt flying around and being sucked into the intake. There is no oil filter either. Air-cooled engines run with higher oil temps than water-cooled engines.
 
Not to mention that most consumers practice the "fill for life" cheap what ever came with it bulk 30 wt. oci. And to add to that just to bring a tear to all of us BITOG members eye is the fact they practice this maintance rotine with everything relavent to the mower: oil, plug(s), air filter, points, fuel filters, ect.
 
quote:

Originally posted by bob_ninja:
Rickey,
Can you expand on
"IMHO contaminants build up much more rapidly in an air cooled mower engine compared to an automotive engine."

Why? What are the factors?
thanks


Dusty environment, air cooled engines are generally built with looser piston to bore clearances to accomodate higher operating temps, and most still use carburators (I know that at least Kohler has fuel injection on some of their engines). So you have more dirt in the engine (no air filter is perfect), more wear metals from the looser clearances, and more fuel contamination of the oil from the use of a carburator.
 
Of course if you practice maintenance on the mowers engine like any BITOGer would then...The rest of the mower will probably wear out and disintigrate before the engine fails.
 
LOL, thanks

Makes sense. I suppose push mower without a filter is at higher risk than a riding mower tractor that has an oil filter. As far as I can remember, the push mower has recommendation of only 20 hours OCI, while the tractor has much longer OCI (can't remember the exact number) and filter change every second oil change.

thanks for the info
smile.gif
 
Another thing to remember with these air cooled engines. If you want to make them last, watch the cooling, don't lug the engine down with a load, keep them spinng at full rpm. Engine speed equals better air flow and better cooling. Keep junk out of the in and out paths for the air. Wash the engine down (when it's cold) and be very careful to keep it clean, dust and grime free. Soap and water works great. On a long term construction site, small gas engines that were washed, had the oil changed frequently, and air filter serviced on a regular basis lasted three to four times longer over a ten year period, tracking about a hundred engines, pumping water, compressing air and generating electricity. Turns out the clean air path is very important. Oh, and any of those oils will do fine. Initial oil quality is not as important as the oil change intervals and maintenance.
 
LarryL,
Yeah, cleaning my foam air pre-filter right now
smile.gif


About washing, never did it in the past. However, everything you say makes sense. At the small engine course the instructor said the same thing.

The problem is how do you clean it? My flywheel is under a plastic enclosure so hard to reach. Also I worry if the water will get into places where it may damage something. Do I have to remove air filter element before washing it? Washing with a sponge or power spray gizmo or ....?

Just how do you was a lawn tractor engine?

thanks

P.S.: I started limiting my runs to 15-20 min with breaks in between to cool. I start again when it is still warm to avoid startup cold oil damage.
 
If you're concerned about water getting where it shouldn't, wait till you're about due for an oil change. Then wash it down, mow your lawn and then do your oil change.
 
Great info! My mower does not have an oil filter, so I change the oil often. Also air filter gets regular cleaning as well. It is on it's 5th summer. I bought a gallon jug of Delo 30W. What about 15w40?
 
Clean the foam air filter off the engine, start with soap and water, then get it dry, oil it and put it back. On my lawn mower, I wash it down with a hose, use soap and water. Anywhere air can go water can usually follow. Do this when the engine is cold. Leave it out in the sun for a while and put it away clean. Wash everwhere. With good maintanance, the engine will outlast everything else, but if you keep everything else clean, you will hold back the rust a bit longer.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom