300V question

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Hey there,

would it be possible to use the 300V 5W-30 in a normally aspiratet M50tu (525i 24V)?

Sorry for the bad english, it´s been a while
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Ore would a 300V 5W-40 be better?

(more fixed on the 5W-30
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)

Thanks and greets,

James
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edit: by the way if I landet in the wrong place----->tow it please
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[ January 11, 2005, 02:44 PM: Message edited by: stormy ]
 
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Is ACEA A3/B3 called for??

If A5/B5 is spec'd then the 5W-30 would be acceptable for Winter for sure.
 
Yes need ACEA A3 over here in Germany

(actually from TX, USA)

here the sheet:

We retain the right to modify the general characteristics of our products in order to offer to our customers the latest technical development.
Product specifications are not definitive from the order which is subject to our general conditions of sale and warranty. – Made in France
8255
MOTUL . 119 Bd Félix Faure - 93303 AUBERVILLIERS CEDEX - BP 94 - Tel 33 1 48 11 70 00 - FAX 33 1 48 33 28 79 . Site Web : www.motul.fr 12/03
300V Power Racing
5W-30
Racing lubricant for racing cars
100% Synthetic – Double Ester Technology
TYPE OF USE
Racing cars with atmospheric or turbocharged engines, race or qualifying engines, requiring maximum
power output and fastest rev raisings : Qualifying sessions, drag racing, race on tracks, Nascar, single
brand races, uphill races, rallyes…
Engine designed to run low viscosity lubricants and to minimise fuel dilution in the oil.
Other applications : Gasoline or diesel engines, turbocharged, direct injection and catalytic converters.
PERFORMANCES
STANDARDS Above existing standards.
Reference team NISMO NISSAN, Japan GT – Coloni Motorsport, Formula 3 (open wheel
cars)
Double Ester technology : maximum oil film resistance, balanced polarity, resistance at very high
temperature.
Friction Modifier : maximum power output, decrease operating temperature.
0% shear loss : Stable oil pressure whatever using conditions.
Maximum anti-wear resistance.
Perfect engine cleanliness.
Low viscosity grade 5W-30 allows excellent oil flow into the engine, fastest oil pressure set up, faster
rev raisings.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Oil change : according to your own use.
Can be mixed with synthetic or mineral lubricants.
PROPERTIES
Viscosity grade SAE J 300 5W-30
Density at 15°C (59°F) ASTM D1298 0.871
Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) ASTM D445 11 mm²/s
Viscosity at 40°C (104°F) ASTM D445 65 mm²/s
Viscosity index ASTM D2270 162
HTHS viscosity at150°C (302°F) ASTM D4741 3.61 mPa.s
Pour point ASTM D97 -36°C / -33°F
Flash point ASTM D92 218°C / 424°F
TBN ASTM D 2896 11.3 mg KOH/g

thx again
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I must also say that the car was driven from the previous owner with 5W-30 Shell Helix with now probs ore sluge:

 -


After 2 changes with 5W-40 I would like to go back (lifters tick more, wich wasnt the case with 5W-30. They even tick with 0W-40
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engine has 94k miles
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[ January 11, 2005, 02:57 PM: Message edited by: stormy ]
 
I used Motul 300v 0w20 double ester on my camry and it developed a top end leak. Im not the only one with this complaint, I've heard others also have the same complaint. The 300v is very high-tech space age biodegradable ester, but is overkill for a street vehicle. Esters will find a way to creep around seals and gaskets, one reason why they lubricate so well. I have since switched to RP5w20 and tightened my valve cover, the leak has now stopped. I dont think I will ever go back to 300v again, I fear getting another leak.
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quote:

Originally posted by Ken4:
I used Motul 300v 0w20 double ester on my camry and it developed a top end leak. Im not the only one with this complaint, I've heard others also have the same complaint. The 300v is very high-tech space age biodegradable ester, but is overkill for a street vehicle. Esters will find a way to creep around seals and gaskets, one reason why they lubricate so well. I have since switched to RP5w20 and tightened my valve cover, the leak has now stopped. I dont think I will ever go back to 300v again, I fear getting another leak.
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Sounds like the old "synthetic oil made my engine leak" story. If it was the oil why did you tighten down the valve cover? Does the oil loosen the screws as well?
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quote:

Originally posted by Christopher Jefferson:
what kind of engine is that? also, was it just helix or, helix ultra?

It´s a M50TUB25, thats it for engine code
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525i 24V (BMW) 2.5 liter

No it doesnt look bad, actually looks good
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Not worryed about leaks, didnt have any more with 300V 15W-50 in my old car (used less oil with that brand) since this car uses about 1/2 quart berween 7.5k changes, I´m not thinking about leaks. (current oil GC RS 0W-40)

@ Chris: Helix, there is no Helix ultra 5W-30 as far as i know.

James
 
quote:

Originally posted by stormy:

After 2 changes with 5W-40 I would like to go back (lifters tick more, wich wasnt the case with 5W-30. They even tick with 0W-40
frown.gif


engine has 94k miles
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I have a M54 engine, 91k miles - nice loud ticking lifters. I thought it was louder with an x-30 than with an x-40. Isn't that the typical pattern - higher visc. = less valvetrain noise ?

Cheers.
 
quote:

Originally posted by stormy:

After 2 changes with 5W-40 I would like to go back (lifters tick more, wich wasnt the case with 5W-30. They even tick with 0W-40
frown.gif


engine has 94k miles
cool.gif


I have a M54 engine, 91k miles - nice loud ticking lifters. I thought it was louder with an x-30 than with an x-40. Isn't that the typical pattern - higher visc. = less valvetrain noise ?

Cheers.
 
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Hi.
Motul 300v not a bad oil but as ken said overkill for a street car.I have Motul 300v in my car at the moment,what i can see now mobil1 0w-40 was the best oil i had in my car except the engine noise.Now i can see it is the normal operating noise for a 4 cylinder camry.
Stay with Castrol whic you are usin now or try Mobil1 0w-40.Also Motul 8100 E-Tech 0w-40.
All above oils have VW 503.01 approval 30000km/2 years interval.
Cheers.
 
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