2AZ-FE - What is the best oil option?

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Newly acquired 2AZ-FE. 180K miles on the clock. No clue if it was fixed by Toyota or not, all I know is it was in for a consumption test (don't even know the results, just know the test was performed - these were Toyota's words). I know these have bad rings and are notorious for burning oil like crazy. I plan to change the PCV valve immediately as a precaution. I'm debating what oil would be the most beneficial. I know that no oil will fix bad rings, just looking to choose the best option under the circumstances. Note that this will be slightly short-tripped (6 miles 1-way) in-town most of it's life and the owner can't drink yet & has a lead foot. I'm just looking for the best of the following answers, as these are the oils I already have plenty of on hand for pennies on the dollar:

A. Mobil Super Synthetic 5W-20
B. Mobil Super Synthetic 10W-30
C. Mobil 1 HM 5W-20
D. Mobil Super HM (blend) 10W-30
E. RGT 5W-20
F. RGT 5W-30
G. Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5W-30
H. Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5W-20
I. Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 0W-20

I guess my two key questions are...
1. Will the cat be better off with synthetic over a blend? My guess is whichever burns less, which both should be about the same...
2. Will a XW-30 help or hinder the specific issue with the 2AZ-FE versus a XW-20? More specifically, will a lower viscosity help the oil problem or the other way around?

My initial thoughts are to use D, because it's the cheapest/most plentiful oil I have, I think a XW-30 may help consumption, and ultimately it's going to burn no matter what...
 
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Check them out and see what others says, but for a Mobil product the most robust would be their ESP line. Ive also seen pennzoil work too but thats after a few oci. Personally I would do some maintenance on it (plugs, coolant etc etc) check for leaky valve gaskets and then run it aggressively (higher rpms) for one 5k mile oci and then drive it normally after to see if that broke a ring loose. It did the trick on my low tension ring lexus.
 
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For what it’s worth there is no “oil problem” that a lower viscosity oil will help. There are certain engine problems that a higher viscosity oil may help however.

A high quality synthetic oil with an approval that has demonstrated deposit control may help with the issue you list.
 

blupupher

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What year (and vehicle) are you talking about?
Later model 2AZ-FE (2010 timeframe and later) are supposed to have this issue resolved (or at least not as common or bad).

Does it currently have an issue, or have you not had it long enough?

Seems the results with thicker oils are all over the place. Some say it helps, some say no difference.
Some have certain brands that work better, while others have better results with a different brand.

So far on my '12 Scion xB with the 2AZ-FE with just over 60,000 miles, I have minimal use (knock on wood), maybe 1/2 qt in a 5,000 mile interval.
I have been using 0w-20 and 5w-20 synthetics since ~16,000 miles (had 4 changes with Toyota oil by the dealer before that).
Once I use up the rest of my xw-20 oil, I will be using 5w-30 on it (but that probably won't be till at least 100,000 miles).
It has been driven by my now 18 year old daughter for the past 2 years, all trips less than 10 miles (most less than 5 miles), and she has a heavy foot.
Prior to that it was my wifes vehicle, mostly short trips, but several 50+ mile trips a few times a month.
 

OilMagnate

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I would let the lead-footer who can't drink yet buy their own 15W40 from Walmart and keep all of my oil.
I'm not sitting at around 2,000 quarts by giving it away for free! Lol. Why the diesel oil recommendation though? I do have tons of Carquest 5W-40 and 15W-40 I just brought home...
 

OilMagnate

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What year (and vehicle) are you talking about?
Later model 2AZ-FE (2010 timeframe and later) are supposed to have this issue resolved (or at least not as common or bad).

Does it currently have an issue, or have you not had it long enough?

Seems the results with thicker oils are all over the place. Some say it helps, some say no difference.
Some have certain brands that work better, while others have better results with a different brand.

So far on my '12 Scion xB with the 2AZ-FE with just over 60,000 miles, I have minimal use (knock on wood), maybe 1/2 qt in a 5,000 mile interval.
I have been using 0w-20 and 5w-20 synthetics since ~16,000 miles (had 4 changes with Toyota oil by the dealer before that).
Once I use up the rest of my xw-20 oil, I will be using 5w-30 on it (but that probably won't be till at least 100,000 miles).
It has been driven by my now 18 year old daughter for the past 2 years, all trips less than 10 miles (most less than 5 miles), and she has a heavy foot.
Prior to that it was my wifes vehicle, mostly short trips, but several 50+ mile trips a few times a month.
2007 RAV4. Just bought it. Has some lengthy maintenance records, and almost all show oil consumption or oil change receipts that show low oil level upon entry. Contrary to how it sounds, it was actually extremely well cared for. It was just owned by a doctor who knows nothing about cars. Dealer service for EVERYTHING.
 
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For what it’s worth there is no “oil problem” that a lower viscosity oil will help. There are certain engine problems that a higher viscosity oil may help however.

A high quality synthetic oil with an approval that has demonstrated deposit control may help with the issue you list.
Can you enlighten us with some examples?
 

blupupher

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2007 RAV4. Just bought it. Has some lengthy maintenance records, and almost all show oil consumption or oil change receipts that show low oil level upon entry. Contrary to how it sounds, it was actually extremely well cared for. It was just owned by a doctor who knows nothing about cars. Dealer service for EVERYTHING.
I have always like that body style. If I ever found one in good condition and good price, I would grab it for my son.
The only issue with that vehicle is the oil burning (although I have seen a few of that gen around here with hood paint issues as well).

Nothing wrong with buying a dealer serviced vehicle, probably all the upsells were done as well, so it should be a well maintained vehicle.

On a side note, I have read of some having good luck using the BG EPR (some have said it took 2 treatments) to help with the ring issue in the 2AZ-FE, and have debated it myself in the Scion.
 
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Enlighten?

ILSAC GF-6 certainly addresses turbocharger and piston deposit control, as does dexos 1 Gen 2. You could start there. Is this something you're looking for?
You stated choosing a "high quality oil", so I had to ask which would be consider high quality.
 
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I’ve tried every oil from 0w20 to 20w50 and M1 HM 10w40. None have helped my consumption. Bought my 09’ Camry LE with 100k on it, around the 120k mark is when consumption started. Sooner or later it will ruin the catalytic converter also if it’s burning oil.
 
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I have that engine in a '14 Scion XB. Almost at 60k mi. Oil consumption has been slowly ramping up for the past 15-20 k miles. All I can add is that I used Castrol 5W30 Magnatec on the last oil change. Oil consumption wasn't diminished at all and perhaps a bit worse. All previous changes except the Toyota freebees years ago were 5w20 Castrol Edge or MT. I would estimate that it's currently using a Qt. in 1500 miles.
 
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Kschachn.... I think painfx was actually asking for specific oils.... Aka Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 or Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w30 ... .
Right, okay I see. Well I don't really care about brands when it comes to "quality", I mostly look to approvals, specifications and licenses. So I guess using that logic any brand that carries the license or approval which addresses the specific problem that was asked about is a quality oil as opposed to an oil that does not have that license or approval.

If I was stuck on brands that would make it hard to take advantage of sales and rebates :)
 

blupupher

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I have that engine in a '14 Scion XB. Almost at 60k mi. Oil consumption has been slowly ramping up for the past 15-20 k miles. All I can add is that I used Castrol 5W30 Magnatec on the last oil change. Oil consumption wasn't diminished at all and perhaps a bit worse. All previous changes except the Toyota freebees years ago were 5w20 Castrol Edge or MT. I would estimate that it's currently using a Qt. in 1500 miles.
Yours is one of those that I was talking about. Supposedly Toyota addressed the ring issue in the 2010/2011 year model, but I still hear a lot of later model vehicles still having the issue.
Also seems it tends to start in the 40,000 to 60,000 range and get worse from there.

Like I said, @ just over 60,000 miles, mine uses maybe 1/2 qt in 5,000 miles (started noticing it around 40,000 miles), and I am keeping an eye on it.

Just looked up what oils I have used in it since new:
  • Toyota conventional 5w-20 (x4)
  • Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 (x2)
  • Auto Zone Synthetic 0w-20
  • Quaker State Synthetic 0w-20 (x2)
  • Quaker State Synthetic 5w-20
  • Rotella Gas Truck 0w-20
  • Castrol Magnatec 0w-20
All changes have been ~every 5,000 miles, and from 4-12 months in time.

I keep hoping that by using synthetic it will help prevent issues, but no idea.
I am going to continue to use up my stash of 0w-20 in this vehicle (Mobil 1 AFE for 1 change, then 3 changes with Pennzoil Platinum HM).
Then I will move to 5w-20 in the stash (if I have any left), then 5w-30.
Why, just because. I have another 24,000 miles of 0w-20 use, and at 5,000 miles every 8-9 months, I have a few years before I need to think about it.
 
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