In laws 2004 Highlander with the 3.3 just rolled 230k on the original timing belt. Maintenance throughout it's life has been negligible at best. When I asked about the timing belt, the response was "What's that?" What do you suppose it looks like after 17 years of 4 seasons and spirited driving?
230k miles on timing belt?
- Thread starter Rochev
- Start date
It can be anywhere from "looking like new" to "slip the next week". Are you feeling lucky?
Doesn't matter to me as I've wanted to buy it in any condition for years anyways, and I know I'll get a smoking deal if it breaks
I've offered to look at it a few times over the years.Seems you are hoping for a disaster.Doesn't matter to me as I've wanted to buy it in any condition for years anyways, and I know I'll get a smoking deal if it breaks
Those a some miracle belts. I myself would idle it to someone to change them.
dnewton3
Staff member
Echoing what pbm said above, that "smoking deal" may be a little issue or a big catastrophe depending upon what kind of damage that broken belt may cause, should it cease to function before you get it in your hands.Doesn't matter to me as I've wanted to buy it in any condition for years anyways, and I know I'll get a smoking deal if it breaks
I just had the timing belt changed on my '97 Ford Escort wagon (41K miles) for the first time a few weeks ago. The mechanic said it still looked good after 24 years. If this had been an interference engine it would have been changed years ago. I used to drive an '88 Escort as a work car to and from construction sites that I'd change the belt on every 100K miles. One time it sheared some teeth off at about 98K miles. I suspect the condition of the belt would be determined by things such as climate, whether the car has been garaged or kept outside, etc. My '97 is garage kept and they reported the belt still looked nearly new. The Escort is what I usually drive on longer trips so I thought it was good insurance to have it changed even if it was low mileage.
An ex of mine didn't believe in changing timing belts. Had a 2004 Santa Fe with 140K on the orignal belt and a 05 Accord that went to 150K I believe before it was sold on the original belt! Some people get lucky.
Does a smoking deal exist on a car that's been ridden hard and put away wet for 17 years, and all the valves are bent?
Toyota
1.5L (1A-C, 3A-C & 3E) Interference
• 1.5L (3E-E & 5E-FE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L DOHC (4A-F & 4A-FE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L DOHC (4A-GE & 4A-GZE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L SOHC Non-Interference
• 1.8L Diesel Interference
• 1.8L DOHC Gasoline Interference
1.8L 7AFE, 4AFE, 4AF – Non Interference
• 2.0L Non-Interference
• 2.2L Diesel Interference
• 2.2L Gasoline Non-Interference
• 2.4L Diesel Interference
• 2.5L Non-Interference
• 2.8L Non-Interference
• 3.0L Inline 6 (Except 1998 2JZ-GE) Non-Interference
• 3.0L Inline 6 VVT-i (1998 2JZ-GE) Interference
• 3.0L V6 Non-Interference
• 3.3L 3MZ-FE V6 W/ V VTi – Interference
• 3.4L Non-Interference
* 3.5L V-6 Non-Interference
• 4.7L Interference
Toyota
1.5L (1A-C, 3A-C & 3E) Interference
• 1.5L (3E-E & 5E-FE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L DOHC (4A-F & 4A-FE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L DOHC (4A-GE & 4A-GZE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L SOHC Non-Interference
• 1.8L Diesel Interference
• 1.8L DOHC Gasoline Interference
1.8L 7AFE, 4AFE, 4AF – Non Interference
• 2.0L Non-Interference
• 2.2L Diesel Interference
• 2.2L Gasoline Non-Interference
• 2.4L Diesel Interference
• 2.5L Non-Interference
• 2.8L Non-Interference
• 3.0L Inline 6 (Except 1998 2JZ-GE) Non-Interference
• 3.0L Inline 6 VVT-i (1998 2JZ-GE) Interference
• 3.0L V6 Non-Interference
• 3.3L 3MZ-FE V6 W/ V VTi – Interference
• 3.4L Non-Interference
* 3.5L V-6 Non-Interference
• 4.7L Interference
Maybe? Sounds like it may have been neglected all around--rather than doing endless oil changes to deal with sludge, just swap the motor out with a known good runner. If the OP can get it for a grand, and it's rust free, it might be a good deal, despite the hassle.
Just my guess as to the situation and thought process.
OT: On a non interference 4 valve motor isn't there still a risk of the exhaust and intake valves colliding with each other if the belt breaks?
At 230K in the books already, future additional miles are a bonus.
Not likely, unless a freak situation occurs with the belt that it continues spinning one cam after the other cam has stopped.
Of course I don't hope for disaster. But I know if there's any bigger issues, it'll be put up for sale. I have a habit of parting out or rebuilding damaged cars. I don't think one more would hurt! For whatever reason, the 1st gen Highlander and 2nd gen Rav4's don't typically rust out, so the body is in great shape.
In the case of Subaru and probably others, its one of the 3 idlers, tensioner or Water Pump that fails. It that happens its bent valve city. I had the belt and all of the "fixings" done at 110K miles on my'08 Forester and my granddaughter did it after 235K miles. Still on the road.
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