That's why I'm not running 0w20 like in the first run. Unacceptable performance, with my driving I'll probably go 0w40 in the summer heat when it's 90+ F every day.Yep it has thinned.. The good news is the wear is all within the acceptable range.
What's unacceptable about its performance? You have some fuel dilution is all which has nothing to do with the oil's good or bad performance. I understand running a higher grade oil because of it however. Why high mileage oil? Why go to a 40 in the summer? The 30 will provide more than adequate protection.That's why I'm not running 0w20 like in the first run. Unacceptable performance, with my driving I'll probably go 0w40 in the summer heat when it's 90+ F every day.
Why did you choose to put a high mileage oil in a vehicle with 8000 miles? I don't think it's a bad thing, just curious as to your thought process.Bought car with 6ish k miles, did an oil change at 8k and now at 12k miles. First drain was factory honda 0w20, second was valvoline 5w30 full synthetic high mileage.
The 0w20 run sheared down to bellow a 0w16 grade. Check the viscosity and flash point. Heck, even the 5w30 got so low.What's unacceptable about its performance? You have some fuel dilution is all which has nothing to do with the oil's good or bad performance. I understand running a higher grade oil because of it however. Why high mileage oil? Why go to a 40 in the summer? The 30 will provide more than adequate protection.
It's 6$ cheaper for 5qt that's all lol.Why did you choose to put a high mileage oil in a vehicle with 8000 miles? I don't think it's a bad thing, just curious as to your thought process.
I see this but what I'm saying is the oil itself isn't shearing here, it's just fuel dilution dropping the viscosity. BS notoriously doesn't give an accurate view of fuel...they calc it based on flash point and you can see your FP is low indicating quite a bit more fuel than they actually show. Your 40W Euro will end as a 30W by the same mechanism but yes, I get running higher grade oil in your engine for this reason. Better to say "my engine is fuel diluter so I go with a higher grade oil" vs. "the XYZ oil performed poorly" is all I'm getting at. I suspect you'll see your viscosity end in the 10s cST @100 with the 40W so will you say that it performs poorly if so? The higher ambient temps will not impact this....you'll see the same drop summer or winter in my experience. You can look at all my UOAs/info I've posted on my Sportwagen which also is heavily modified for >2x stock power and yes, it fuel dilutes and drops that Euro 40 to a 30 in short order (even with HPL).The 0w20 run sheared down to bellow a 0w16 grade. Check the viscosity and flash point. Heck, even the 5w30 got so low.
It gets above 100 daily in the summer here and it's mild (60-70) now on this 5w30.
This car is on a stage 2 tune pushing +80lbft of torque from 1500rpm.
Makes sense.I see this but what I'm saying is the oil itself isn't shearing here, it's just fuel dilution dropping the viscosity. BS notoriously doesn't give an accurate view of fuel...they calc it based on flash point and you can see your FP is low indicating quite a bit more fuel than they actually show. Your 40W Euro will end as a 30W by the same mechanism but yes, I get running higher grade oil in your engine for this reason. Better to say "my engine is fuel diluter so I go with a higher grade oil" vs. "the XYZ oil performed poorly" is all I'm getting at. I suspect you'll see your viscosity end in the 10s cST @100 with the 40W so will you say that it performs poorly if so? The higher ambient temps will not impact this....you'll see the same drop summer or winter in my experience. You can look at all my UOAs/info I've posted on my Sportwagen which also is heavily modified for >2x stock power and yes, it fuel dilutes and drops that Euro 40 to a 30 in short order (even with HPL).