21 F-150 Ecoboost towing oil grade

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I picked up a used camper (https://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/2015/Heartland-RVs/M-285LX/6547069/Specs) and have been towing it with my 2021 F-150 Ecoboost (3.5). Currently I am running Valvoline Advanced 5w-30 with about 6 hours of towing on a fresh change. I'll be towing 8-9 hours each way for a trip next week and was wondering if I should swap out the 5w30 for some Euro 5w40 that I have from a different vehicle?

Not sure if 5w30 will hold up with 16-18 hours of towing in a few days or not.

Thanks!
 
I picked up a used camper (https://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/2015/Heartland-RVs/M-285LX/6547069/Specs) and have been towing it with my 2021 F-150 Ecoboost (3.5). Currently I am running Valvoline Advanced 5w-30 with about 6 hours of towing on a fresh change. I'll be towing 8-9 hours each way for a trip next week and was wondering if I should swap out the 5w30 for some Euro 5w40 that I have from a different vehicle?

Not sure if 5w30 will hold up with 16-18 hours of towing in a few days or not.

Thanks!
Great Question
Why not keep running the Valvoline Advanced 5w-30 for another 16-18 hours of towing. Then do a UOA, and post the results
 
As per your owner's manual, you can change your oil an filter "as indicated by the information display and perform services listed in the Normal Scheduled Maintenance chart" when towing.

Plus, if Ford recommends Motorcraft Synthetic Blend for this, you will have no issues running Valvoline Full Synthetic for a normal OCI, even when towing.
 
Great Question
Why not keep running the Valvoline Advanced 5w-30 for another 16-18 hours of towing. Then do a UOA, and post the results

We have a member here that tows across the Rockies using 0W-20. You should be fine.

Good to know! I think I'll keep what's in the sump and then send it out for analysis when I get home.
 
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Just towed 2000miles with our 7500lb trailer in some silly temperatures (90F+) over the Rockies and coastal mountains of western Canada. Castrol 0w40 in the sump here. 4000 ft climbes a number of times.
 
Granted, different engine, but I have no worries that the Havoline HM 5W30 in my 2.3L Ecoboost will be just fine. And I'm towing pretty heavy (for this truck), where it is working hard most of the time it is towing. I'm around 5800# loaded with an 8' wide box, so fighting the wind when rolling.
 
I use 5w30 supertech in my 18. My camper is 8000lb and box is usually loaded with Mike's and fire wood, haven't blown the engine yet, still sounds like the day she was bought
 
I think Quaker State 5W40 European will do find. Below is the VOA and UOA. Engine is 440 horsepower 3.5 liter Ecoboost


Screenshot_20220911_165225_Drive.jpg
Screenshot_20220911_165339_Drive.jpg
 
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It’s not the bearings, rings or cams that suffer in EB engines, it’s the chains and phasers. Fuel dilution of the oil reduces the viscosity along with particulate contamination. When oil changes are extended beyond about 5000 miles the chains start to suffer. there are plenty of examples of long lived EB engines. There are also a large number of timing chain replacements. these are very robust engines but you can easily figure out why some live a long and trouble free life and some don’t. Any form of neglect takes out the timing chain and phasers.

as always choose a quality oil and change it regularly. Especially in the EB engines. I use M1, 10W-30 extended performance oil and change at or before the 5000 mile mark. Pushing 180K miles now. Not a single issue with the engine. Plenty of abuse and towing too.
 
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Different engine for my Silverado, but tow a 7k lb travel trailer frequently during the summer. I use the recommended 0w-20 year round…my UOA’s showed no difference in wear metals towing or not, FWIW.
 
I'm waiting on the UOA, hoping to get the results this week. Thanks for all your comments!
 
I settled on 10-30 full synthetic and change when the OLM goes off. I’m ok with it because there is 0 difference in sound before and after. With 5-30 oil, the sound is different 2000 miles before the OLM hits. Very unscientific, but it makes a notable difference and tends to fall into the trend of the “success stories.”
 
There’s something to this, I think, meep… if you look at the 0/5W oils, as VI increases, so does Noack. We’re told high VI is very desirable, but when we look at the 10/15Ws we generally see much “worse” VI, yet UOAs show they are more shear stable, with very low Noack (some 5% or less!).

Also, when we look at many of the engines with heavy varnish, sludge, or phaser/timing chain issues- we see the OEM oil specs usually steer the user toward higher VI oils, especially when cold weather is involved.

Question: is the CAFE push and the “improved” formulation with high VI additives really just a planned self-destruction/continued service requirement? Like, with all these things lining up, intake valve cleanings & timing chain & phaser failures that seem to be improved by an “inferior” VI oil due to lower shear & Noack, can’t we seriously ask that question of oil blending experts?

I know no oil will stop engineering, machining, or materials defects, but all the signs make me wonder: if you ran an engine that called for a 0/5W30 instead on a 10W30 or even 15W30 (if it existed, of course) for a half-million miles, would there be statistically measurable wear and failure rate differences by sacrificing a few tenths of MPG while the engine was cold? I need an adult beverage now! 🤣
 
I'd be swapping out the transmission fluid sooner,getting a better fluid from amsoil or redline and maybe a cooler if it ain't got one.
On that note Ford Tech says 30000 mile trans fluid flush, 60000 mile filter/fluid change and 60000 filter/fluid thereafter.
 
I'd be swapping out the transmission fluid sooner,getting a better fluid from amsoil or redline and maybe a cooler if it ain't got one.
There are only 3 choices for fluid in the 10R80 at this point. Mercon ULV, Dexron ULV, and Valvoline ULV (There's also the Canadian Klondike ULV, but you can't find it in the US). You don't want to mess around with a thicker fluid in the 10R80, it gets all wonky and hard shifting when the viscosity goes up. Currently, Redline and Amsoil don't offer anything compatible. @meep tried the Amsoil in his and pretty much immediately swapped back to a true ULV.

In addition, all 10R80's have a heat exchanger, both in order to bring it up to temp quicker and keep the temp regulated somewhere in the 200-220 degree range.

Keeping them cool usually isn't an issue. Plenty of us tow heavy with them and temps never really get out of control.
 
I'd be swapping out the transmission fluid sooner,getting a better fluid from amsoil or redline and maybe a cooler if it ain't got one.
I had talked with MolaKule a while back on this exact topic, fluid-wise. Was gonna dump the Mercon ULV in my 10R80 and was quite surprised.

Paraphrasing here from Mola: the Mercon ULV is a fully synthetic fluid that is very robust and cutting-edge in its components and performance. He did not feel that there would be any real or perceived benefits to using Amsoil ATL or Redline, especially with the price differential since MC ULV is cheaper.

I’m going to drain & fill mine & swap filters at 60k; I’m still deciding if I’m going to spring for one of the aftermarket cast 10R80 pans that holds additional fluid & has cast fins for heat dissipation. That would add ~$400 to the project.

 
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