2025 Toyota Rav4 personal engine oil struggle.
- Thread starter GI_GRIFF
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- Mar 17, 2024
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Awesome thanks!
I live in seriously hot South Texas where 9F is the historical low in 1989 and 90-105F is the common temp through most of the year. I run Mobil1 15W50 AFS in all my other cars and bikes down here, actually saw a very consistent 0.5mpg improvement in my 2014 Ford Edge switching from recommended 5W20 Mobil1 synthetic to Mobil1 15W50 synthetic. Recently picked up a a 2020 ICE only Rav4 with the A25A-FKS and a bit under 60K miles and I did Mobil1 0W40 for my first oil change, but I think I am going to switch it over to the 15W50 next oil change too just for simplicity sake.
Turns out, I can run 5w-30 engine oil in my 2025 Toyota Rav4. I will only sacrifice my Toyota Care services, which I could care less, but it won't change my Toyota 3-year bumper to bumper or extended warranty in any way. I will try to scan the letter from the Toyota district manager to my local Toyota dealer service manager. I got this letter from him today, 7/14/2025. I whited out any names and stuff in it but, I thought someone here may like to see this. I can run 5w-30 engine oil in my Toyota, it says so in my owner's manual. Doing so may reduce my fuel milage slightly, but it will not hurt the warranty according to the Toyota corporate district service manager and my local service manager. Now I will attempt to scan in and post this e-mail.
I'm ashamed of myself, I need to up my thickie game. I should run 50 instead of 40 in everything too.
That’s impressive. Haven’t seen anyone around here with the plums to run a 50 weight in a while.
I tried it for an OCI in my Tiguan to see if it helped with consumption. It didn't.
How much are you consuming?
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2024
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I am certainly not an oil expert or anything but I have yet to see a downside for reliability, especially in hot South Texas. It might cost my FJR1300 a couple windage based ponies up near the ~9,500 rev limiter, but honestly that bike is more than fast enough to get me into all the trouble I need regardless.
Even the common worries about cold starting flow and thicker viscosity seem questionable to me with an engine that is run fairly regularly. Sure a thicker oil will take longer to get pressure, but isn't it also staying in place better and offering more protection before pressure arrives than a thinner oil? IDK, haven't seen any intensive testing on that but it seems like it might be pretty close to a wash outside of maybe some extremes.
Did the VRP help?
Why do you think you developed oil consumption? I'm certain that you've been running quality Euro oils with stringent approvals since you've had it.
I don't know the exact amount, but it is probably about 1 quart in 1500 miles. It depends on driving conditions. When the vehicle was brand new it used a little at first but then settled down to nearly zero in 5000 miles. But then at some point it just jumped up again, and I think it is the valve stem seals as I see a puff of smoke when started. This wouldn't be the first VW engine I've owned that needed the stem seals replaced. I'm a little intimidated with putting it all back properly if I change them out, so I've been dragging my heels a bit getting it done. It also needs the water pump and housing replaced.
I don't think it has an issue with the oil causing carbon or stuck rings. I think it is a mechanical issue.
More importantly, how is the oil consumption rate at 10k? Any oil added, how much?
That's a big job. You have to take the head off for that right? Impressive work to tackle yourself.
It stays on the f line to about 1/4 qt low when I change the oil. I've never needed at add any top off oil. We drive a lot of highway miles.
But you do acutally add 4.8 qts when you change the oil or 5 qts?
I add 5 qts and it takes it right to the F line. It's almost time for an oil change at 140,000 miles so I'll pay closer attention.
That's interesting. I wonder if you change the oil on an unlevel surface. Or is this before you start the engine and fill the filter?
This is changing the oil on ramps and after starting the vehicle.
Have you checked it after the car is level again...
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