2022 Subaru Crosstrek ..5000 Miles Liquid Moly 0w20 / Subaru blue filter (Fram)

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Jan 4, 2014
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Location
Ashtabula, Ohio
So I got my first sample, I wanted to see how is the filter everyone saying how it's low quality.
Lots of warm-up in the morning due to the frigid mornings.
Also, I used the engine start-stop feature all the time. Kept the rpm below 4000, maybe I went over 4000 a couple of times
Use my car on the weekends for grub hub so I did a lot of stops and go as well
I used a liquid Moly engine protectant that goes in the engine every 50k KM. Used fuel injector cleaner every 1200 Miles
I changed it to Subaru 0w20 when I changed the oil. After Subaru oil I plan to switch to Amsoil OE
Screen Shot 2022-05-12 at 19.17.54.jpg
 
I still don't know what the importance of an analysis is on an engine not fully broken in. You know it's going to be loaded with breakin and production casting materials.
 
So I got my first sample, I wanted to see how is the filter everyone saying how it's low quality.
Lots of warm-up in the morning due to the frigid mornings.
Also, I used the engine start-stop feature all the time. Kept the rpm below 4000, maybe I went over 4000 a couple of times
Use my car on the weekends for grub hub so I did a lot of stops and go as well
I used a liquid Moly engine protectant that goes in the engine every 50k KM. Used fuel injector cleaner every 1200 Miles
I changed it to Subaru 0w20 when I changed the oil. After Subaru oil I plan to switch to Amsoil OE View attachment 99668
Don't think those additives are needed or recommended. Your 5,000 oci is fine. Exit viscosity in fine.
 
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I personally wouldn't have used the additive until you had enough miles that the wear metals had leveled out and stabilized. But to each his own. Agree with FZ1, Subaru engines have never had issues that the LiquiMoly can address- they were engineering problems, and thankfully, Subaru seems to have gotten a handle on a good majority of the ones that plagued turbo'd EJ owners when they moved to the FA/FB engines.
 
With today's piston rings and bore finishes at the OEM level, ring seat is pretty much complete within the first 5 minutes of running... i.e. before the car ever gets into its first owner's hands. The rest of the engine, though... all the bearings and metal-on-metal (like some OHC cam journals) still have some action going on here. OP do whatever makes you happy, but know that it's not needed. Oils that meet mfr's specs and changed frequently with good air & oil filtration will do more to ensure a long happy engine life than additives ever will.
 
No wonder the jump on the moly due to LM product added
Subaru factory fills have frequently shown moly in the 700+ppm range. The LM additives usually come out in the 200-300ppm range depending on the oil capacity of the sump. The Idemitsu 0W20 that is very close to factory fill, I believe a VOA showed similar moly levels to the Subaru FF- something that you’d have to seriously overdose any aftermarket additive to achieve.

Even with Lubegard BioTech, which I did a VOA on, would have to be dosed at a level that far exceeded anything Lubegard would approve of to hit the moly levels in what some factory fills achieve.

We’re long past the days where even discerning engine snobs drive their new car off the lot and onto ramps to drain the oil. Factory fills & filters, combined with much better machining & assembly cleanliness than that of yesteryear, are easily good enough to make 3k+ miles all the way to whatever the factory recommends for the first OCI. Only people who ignore data & science drain the factory fill at 500 miles these days…
 
Rings and bearings are seated at the factory, using Cera Tec, if that is what you used, has no affect on break-in. Though personally I would have dumped the factory oil at 200 miles, but this is a personal choice. Oil is cheap.
 
Everyone that is saying that it is a low quality filter needs to show me an actual failure. Bunch of oil filter snobs! "Everyone look at how pretty my Tokyo Roki is!!!" 🥴
LOL! This. The subaru blue frams are just fine. I used to use only OEM black roki filters for my 3.6 for a while and while they are very well built, you know the one thing I never could find out? How well it actually filtered and did what it was supposed to do, and given that it's been unchanged for decades my bet is that an orange can fram will out-filter a tokyo roki all day long.

Don't even get me started on the mystical subaru bypass thing lol
 
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