2022 Mazda Miata / MX-5 Kirkland signature 5w-30, 4.5k miles

Joined
Aug 27, 2003
Messages
351
Location
Texas
I sent in the factory fill 0w-20 for UOA even though it was of dubious utility see https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...a-mx-5-factory-fill-0w-20-2-873-miles.364458/ , that UOA reported unusually high copper levels.

Even though I knew logically the factory fill could show funky results it still raised my paranoia. Hence the dubious utility of sending in the factory fill often stated here. I have since found several Mazda motors report high copper levels at the beginning and then tapering off. Here in this second drain this motor appears to be on that healthy trend.

Aluminum is up but still near the universal averages. I guess I can't really complain about that. Iron is down to the universal average. I will take this is as a decent report for a fresh motor overall.

Not only is the type of oil different between these two UOA's but also my driving style. Throughout 2022 on the factory fill I was doing low speed very short commutes where the motor barely came up to temp, I did try to do some longer weekend drives at least once a month but it took 9 months to rack up 2,800 miles. I considered the main threat to be fuel and water contamination. Hence the rudimentary Kirkland oil. its a good oil graded against its very low cost, Idea was to dump it at 3k miles or so about every year.

But then in March I got a new job 4 hours away from home, I now have a long weekly freeway commute (2,800-3,500 rpm for hours at a time) across a big chunk of Texas and the miles are racking up much faster, I am starting to re-think my oil selection and may need something more substantial and to use it for more miles so I don't spend my limited free time changing oil.

This motor is easy on oil, only real concern is intake valve deposits due to direct injection, partially the reason I moved to 5w-30 for its lower volatility, the other reason is our hot local climate.

I asked Blackstone what the source of the copper might be, possibly bearings or an oil cooler or alike. hence their reply.

2nd.jpg
 
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I had a '19 and did a UOA, I wouldn't use 5w30. The engine performed better on 0w20 and seemed more responsive. I did use a 5w30 (C3) hths ~ 3.5 though.
I drove that thing hard too.
 
I had a '19 and did a UOA, I wouldn't use 5w30. The engine performed better on 0w20 and seemed more responsive. I did use a 5w30 (C3) hths ~ 3.5 though.
I drove that thing hard too.

interesting that is another with elevated copper in its youth,

viscosity debate rolls on, I noticed no real loss of performance, maybe slightly at the very top of the rev range (yeah the fun part) but barely perceptible if at all. I did notice a drop in engine noise and its well withing range for my temps when looking at any chart for markets outside the US (US calls for 0w-20 only) a couple hundred miles out of me in Mexico its 10w-30 only
 
The copper is from break in, that's nothing to be concerned about. Kirkland is thinner than what I was using, but similarly I experienced less responsiveness at high RPM with 5w30. Remember skyactiv was a designed with 0w20. Lots of skyactiv engines in the 100ks with nothing but 0w20. After I did that UOA and installed M1 ESP 5w30, I immediately regretted it. You feel every HP with that car. I sold the car shortly after that, but if I still had it I would be using M1 0w20 EP. My break in change was Pennzoil Platinum 0w20, I would not recommend that oil. Engine was noisy at the end of OCI. Mexico has poor quality gas and oil, so they "allow" conventional 5w30/10w30. In Mexico they also require replacing the fuel filter.
 
It's breaking in so no worries. Thought about buying kirkland but a 4 pack of 5qt jugs is now $80. So $20 each. Might as well buy supertech 10k since its the same price. They need to drop the price of that 4pk to $60 or less.
 
This motor is easy on oil, only real concern is intake valve deposits due to direct injection, partially the reason I moved to 5w-30 for its lower volatility, the other reason is our hot local climate.

Have you thought about ever adding an oil catch can? That should in theory eliminate most if not all oil vapors from dirtying your intake valves.
 
I’m using M1 ESP 0W-30 for my latest fill in my ‘21 Miata and the engine SEEMS quieter and smoother especially at idle, but my butt-dyno noticed the same thing as haggler…doesn’t SEEM to rev up as fast as when I was using 20 weight.
Since I’m not doing auto cross or street racing, I’ll take the extra protection provided by the 30 weight.
 
It's breaking in so no worries. Thought about buying kirkland but a 4 pack of 5qt jugs is now $80. So $20 each. Might as well buy supertech 10k since its the same price. They need to drop the price of that 4pk to $60 or less.
Kirkland just went Off sale.
 
I bought a 2016 MX-5 with 46k on it. I installed an oil catch can. Part of the install requires the intake manifold to come off. There was so much carbon build up on the intake valves you could not recognize the valve shape. Cleaned them up to look new. Runs better.
 
I sent in the factory fill 0w-20 for UOA even though it was of dubious utility see https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...a-mx-5-factory-fill-0w-20-2-873-miles.364458/ , that UOA reported unusually high copper levels.

Even though I knew logically the factory fill could show funky results it still raised my paranoia. Hence the dubious utility of sending in the factory fill often stated here. I have since found several Mazda motors report high copper levels at the beginning and then tapering off. Here in this second drain this motor appears to be on that healthy trend.

Aluminum is up but still near the universal averages. I guess I can't really complain about that. Iron is down to the universal average. I will take this is as a decent report for a fresh motor overall.

Not only is the type of oil different between these two UOA's but also my driving style. Throughout 2022 on the factory fill I was doing low speed very short commutes where the motor barely came up to temp, I did try to do some longer weekend drives at least once a month but it took 9 months to rack up 2,800 miles. I considered the main threat to be fuel and water contamination. Hence the rudimentary Kirkland oil. its a good oil graded against its very low cost, Idea was to dump it at 3k miles or so about every year.

But then in March I got a new job 4 hours away from home, I now have a long weekly freeway commute (2,800-3,500 rpm for hours at a time) across a big chunk of Texas and the miles are racking up much faster, I am starting to re-think my oil selection and may need something more substantial and to use it for more miles so I don't spend my limited free time changing oil.

This motor is easy on oil, only real concern is intake valve deposits due to direct injection, partially the reason I moved to 5w-30 for its lower volatility, the other reason is our hot local climate.

I asked Blackstone what the source of the copper might be, possibly bearings or an oil cooler or alike. hence their reply.

View attachment 156804
Holy moly batman.
Wow.
I might try that mazda moly oil one day.
 
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