2022 Chevy 2.7L Silverado Burning Oil. Diagnosis?

F

Fsharp

Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Messages
482
Location
Kentucky
My 2022 Silverado is at about 67,000 miles and is burning oil at about 1 quart per 1,000 miles. This has seemed to build up over the last 10,000 miles or so. I finally have been keeping track of it over the last 3,000 miles or so. I’m out of warranty so I’m interested if this has been an issue others have seen. I’ve tried to search the forums without much luck.

The only symptoms the truck has is a strong oil/burning oil smell through the air vents on start up for about 15 seconds, especially if it’s sat a while. No smell or smoke from exhaust. Also very occasional pinging or knocking when accelerating from a stop or crawl. There are no codes. I checked around the motor for leaks and everything looks dry, including oil cooler.

To diagnose I’ve been thinking to check compression as well as the turbo for play in the shaft.

Anyone have experience with similar problems with this motor or other ideas to diagnose?
 
What oil are have you been using and what were your intervals. I suspect the turbo is the culprit but try the pcv valve. If I owned that engine it'd be getting euro 30/40 oil changed every 3-4k. I wouldn't use dexos or do the intervals gm says to do. I don't have any expectation for these GM dohc turbo gdi hunks to withstand any neglect.

https://g.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/gm-pcv-valve-12721582
 
Oil will lower octane, so the pre-detonation aligns with the oil consumption. Leak-down testing can give you some insight, but ultimately if the issue is the oil control ring that doesn't tend to yield poor compression or leak-down.

You mentioned start-up having the most oil smell, which would have me curious about the valve stem seals. If those fail, you tend to see more drainage into the cylinder when stopped. That causes an initial large amount of burn, then while the engine operates it loses a smaller amount.

I would park the car, use an endoscope to see if oil is pooling over time on top of the piston or back of the valve. Checking it after a few minutes, then what it does after 24 hours will help determine if you have a valve stem seal issue.

You can also check the cold and hot side of the turbo for oil.
 
you do have a federal emissions warranty of 8 years or 80K miles
copied text below
  • Federal Emission Warranty:
    This warranty ensures that vehicles meet federal emission standards set by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

  • Coverage:
    The warranty covers defects in materials and workmanship that could cause a vehicle to fail to meet emission standards. This includes repairs or replacements of defective parts.

  • Duration:
    The basic warranty for most emissions-related components is 2 years or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first.

  • Specific Components:
    Certain major emission control components, such as catalytic converters and particulate filters, are covered for a longer period of 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first.

  • California Emission Warranty:
    In California, a separate warranty may apply, which may have different terms and conditions.

  • Importance:
    The emissions warranty protects consumers from the cost of repairing defective emissions-related components that would cause a vehicle to fail emission tests.
 
What prior oil and what prior drain intervals were you going by?

Average oils over time seem to lead to oil consumption in many GDI engines.

I would switch to Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30.
 
Thanks for the replies thus far. I have been using valvoline synthetic 5w-30 advanced then Valvoline restore and protect, then Castrol Edge most recently after after a couple oil changes with the restore and protect when I saw it wasn’t dexos-1. I have been changing it when the oil life monitor hits 30% which is probably around 6,000 miles for me. I like the endoscope idea for valve stem seals. PCV system is a bit complex on this truck. I’ll look into it, but it is pulling a crankcase vacuum. It will suck in a rag if placed over the open oil fill tube when engine is running.

One interesting thing about the oil smell on start up is that it comes from the vents. Very little or no smell from the exhaust and no smoke.
 
SwampSurvivor said:
If it's coming through the vents, wouldn't it be an external leak and not consumption?
Click to expand...
I would think so too but this smell only lasts 15 seconds or so before going away entirely. If it’s leaking 1 quart per thousand miles I would expect to have a more constant smell. I’m wondering if the presence of the oil smell has to do with the air injection pump operating. Next start I’ll have to have the hood up and sniffing the engine compartment.
 
Silverado12 said:
This situation does seem like a candidate for Restore and Protect from Valvoline. I'm wondering if it's ok to use for preventing LSPI, though?
Click to expand...
Fsharp said:
I’ve heard it’s not great for LSPI because of calcium additives not sure though
Click to expand...

Man, if only there was a website where people submitted oil samples for testing to see what level of Calcium there is in a specific motor oil.

You guys should go check out BITOG, and see if they have the Valvoline R&P 5W-30 listed in the virgin oil samples yet.

F

Thread 'Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30 VOA'

Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30
Manufactured in 2024
API SP
ILSAC GF-6A

I mailed the sample to Oil Analyzers Indianapolis on Monday and received the report by Saturday. On my submission form I did not include product brand or information. Only product viscosity grade.

VOA_Valvoline_R&P_5w30.webp
  • Like
  • Helpful

Good luck, and you should really enjoy BITOG, because those people really love to know as much as they can about oil.
 
Is it true that Restore and Protect isnt dexos because it would let the cat out of the bag for its makeup? Didnt valvoline say it would pass dexos easily? You're out of warranty, restore and protect isnt going to hurt anything and depending on the consumption cause VRP may help. It will help clean the intake if you have oil passing through the intake.
 
In various threads about the GM 2.7 there have been repetitive comments about some vehicles burning oil. I wonder if it has anything to do with the piston design, which employs a cast iron reinforcement of some sort.
 
Fsharp said:
One interesting thing about the oil smell on start up is that it comes from the vents. Very little or no smell from the exhaust and no smoke.
Click to expand...
My well-loved 2007 EJ25 (with original HGs & ~197k mi) that is much-maligned here, mainly by those who’ve never owned them… has a very slight oil drip onto the exhaust that presents as a burning oil smell thru the vents when stationary, but not when moving. Read: less than enough to measure on the dipstick over a 5k OCI, and doesn’t mark its territory on the pavement. There is no blue puff, no smoke at all out of the exhaust. I’ll be darned if I’m going to tear apart an otherwise perfectly-running engine for what amounts to less than 2 shots of liquor over 5k miles. It’s earned the right to smell “well-used” when sitting still… your ‘22 on the other hand, needs better manners 😂

I agree your turbo may be the “most likely” culprit until proven otherwise, but also do your due diligence and take a bright light and a fine-toothed comb to the exhaust manifold area and around the VC gasket checking for leaks; maybe even go so far as to use some of the oil-safe UV dye and a black light in case there’s a sneaky back-of-the-head leak or something like that.
 
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