2021 Mazda MX-5 2.0L, Valvoline EP 0W-20, 6100 mile interval, 9900 total miles

ThatNavyGuy

ThatNavyGuy

Joined
May 2, 2022
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Second oil change since I bought it. Suspect fuel dilution went up due to an unusual amount of winter driving for a car that I typically store when too cold to drop the top (nearly non-existent winter in the mid-Atlantic this year). Fram ultra was used again this OCI. I don’t track it, but I’m not afraid to let it touch redline on twisty country roads.
Regardless, I’ve recently become a thickie convert, so my next sample will be the Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 that it’s currently running.
Happy to hear your thoughts.
 

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The dilution isn't that bad but it's there, metals are fine. under 3ppm per thousand so it's fine. I'd run a 30 grade and leave it at that.
 
As has been posted on here, Blackstone fuel % is usually lower than what it really is. I’m running M1 esp 0W30 in my 17 accord and will go with the esp 5w30 after and run that for the life of the car
 
02zx9r rev2 said:
As has been posted on here, Blackstone fuel % is usually lower than what it really is. I’m running M1 esp 0W30 in my 17 accord and will go with the esp 5w30 after and run that for the life of the car
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I feel like that fuel dilution (problematic or not) further justifies my reasoning to go up a grade.
 
M1 ESP 0W30, 5W30 and Pennzoil Euro L 5W30 are all good options. I'm going with the Pennzoil as long as it's available at Walmart for $27ish for 5qt jugs. For all my vehicles -- 18 CRV, 06 M45, 03 Civic.
 
ThatNavyGuy said:
I feel like that fuel dilution (problematic or not) further justifies my reasoning to go up a grade.
Click to expand...
Or, you could use a UOA service that has accurate fuel content information ...

Your car is only on it's second OCI and the wear metals are generally in line with other MX5s with this low mileage. It is WAY too early to make some knee-jerk reaction decision like changing a lube grade. Most certainly, going up to a 30 grade won't hurt. But it's not proven to be any great salvation in these cars either.

Stay the course; let the break-in settle down first.
 
dnewton3 said:
Or, you could use a UOA service that has accurate fuel content information ...

Your car is only on it's second OCI and the wear metals are generally in line with other MX5s with this low mileage. It is WAY too early to make some knee-jerk reaction decision like changing a lube grade. Most certainly, going up to a 30 grade won't hurt. But it's not proven to be any great salvation in these cars either.

Stay the course; let the break-in settle down first.
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Not saying the 0W-20 did a bad job or that the engine is going to die prematurely by sticking to a 20-weight, but the viscosity did nearly drop into 16-weight territory. I just prefer the buffer that a 30-weight provides, which the manual says to use everywhere but the US and Canada.
 
dnewton3 said:
Understood.
Nothing wrong with experiments! Just make sure you don't erroneously assign some cause/effect that can't be proven with a small UOA sample size.
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Agreed. Wear would have continued on a downward trajectory regardless of the grade switch, barring some actual mechanical failure.
 
ThatNavyGuy said:
Second oil change since I bought it. Suspect fuel dilution went up due to an unusual amount of winter driving for a car that I typically store when too cold to drop the top (nearly non-existent winter in the mid-Atlantic this year). Fram ultra was used again this OCI. I don’t track it, but I’m not afraid to let it touch redline on twisty country roads.
Regardless, I’ve recently become a thickie convert, so my next sample will be the Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 that it’s currently running.
Happy to hear your thoughts.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the report
Valvoline is a strong oil !!!
 
Side bar, your Honor ...

TNG - is your's the Crystal Red Soul Metallic? That's what I have. I have a love/hate relationship with the paint.
- After 30k+ miles, I have enough paint chips from general road debris that I'm getting quotes to have it repainted. I have probably more than 100 small chips all over the nose and front fenders. The paint is whisper thin. (Really wish I had invested in a PPF when I got it.)
- The color is beautiful! When it's clean; which it isn't for more than 3 miles.
 
No! No more side bars!

Thirty one years of dealing with lawyers, judges and side bars. Denied!

In the future try THIS to avoid a front end re-spray. I’ve had it on the last five rides; good stuff!

suntekfilms.com

Paint Protection Film | SunTek

SunTek® PPF guards against most road hazards to consistently help maintain your car’s original finish. Learn more about this high performance film.
suntekfilms.com suntekfilms.com
 
dnewton3 said:
Side bar, your Honor ...

TNG - is your's the Crystal Red Soul Metallic? That's what I have. I have a love/hate relationship with the paint.
- After 30k+ miles, I have enough paint chips from general road debris that I'm getting quotes to have it repainted. I have probably more than 100 small chips all over the nose and front fenders. The paint is whisper thin. (Really wish I had invested in a PPF when I got it.)
- The color is beautiful! When it's clean; which it isn't for more than 3 miles.
Click to expand...
Yeah I’ve got the SRC and I’ve never seen a more beautiful red color. Hardly a day goes by without someone asking “what is that color called” or “is that factory paint” or giving a compliment on it.
I’ve been very lucky so far in that it’s still flawless, but I take a lot of precautions. Definitely don’t tailgate anyone and keep my distance when I can. I don’t drive it on wet roads as I’ve heard this makes tires more prone to throwing rocks. I also keep it detailed and use multiple coats of ceramic wax. But I’ve heard the same complaint as yours from many SRC owners. The paint is ridiculously thin and apparently impossible to duplicate in a paint shop.
 
The red paint is indeed stunningly beautiful when clean; absolutely one of the most gorgeous colors I've ever seen.

But it maddens me that it only looks like that in my driveway after a wash. The color becomes muted quickly with road dust. I live in a neighborhood with a gravel road; my car looks like crap by the time I get out on the road. I can "drive" (crawl) at 3mph out of the neighborhood and it will be OK, but within 100 miles of a lovely drive, the dust layer on the car really dulls it's appearance. It's a color that only wows people when clean, which isn't long. Such is the life of we who live in rural areas; gravel roads and farm field dust make a mockery of dark vehicle colors. White and silver are great colors where we live.

I have to wash my MX5 every single time I get home. Every time! It's so bad that I'm seriously considering having the car painted to fix all the chips/blemishes, then selling/trading it in for a different color MX5 (white or silver) and immediately getting PPF applied.
 
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dnewton3 said:
The red paint is indeed stunningly beautiful when clean; absolutely one of the most gorgeous colors I've ever seen.

But it maddens me that it only looks like that in my driveway after a wash. The color becomes muted quickly with road dust. I live in a neighborhood with a gravel road; my car looks like crap by the time I get out on the road. I can "drive" (crawl) at 3mph out of the neighborhood and it will be OK, but within 100 miles of a lovely drive, the dust layer on the car really dulls it's appearance. It's a color that only wows people when clean, which isn't long. Such is the life of we who live in rural areas; gravel roads and farm field dust make a mockery of dark vehicle colors. White and silver are great colors where we live.

I have to wash my MX5 every single time I get home. Every time! It's so bad that I'm seriously considering having the car painted to fix all the chips/blemishes, then selling/trading it in for a different color MX5 (white or silver) and immediately getting PPF applied.
Click to expand...
Yeah that’s a tough one, but hey…cosmetic problems or not you still have a hell of a fun car to drive.
 
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