2021 Honda Accord 2.0t UOA

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Jan 25, 2022
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Here's my recent report from Blackstone regarding my 2021 Accord 2.0t. Next sample will be with 0w30 M1 AFE. Let me know what you think.
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way to go on the 30weight! i've been running various 5w30 in my 1.5T civic, i'm sure your 2.0T accord will love it!
 
The KV100 end number speaks to the fact that the oil took a beating, it sheared to just being a hair above a 0w16 grade. I have seen the exact same thing with Subaru's FA24F TGDI engines that run 0w20 for 3000-4000 miles or so.

I would not be surprised if that engine shreds M1 0W30 AFE as well, even down to a similar KV100 number after only 3000 miles or so. Keep an eye on it and don't count on an Xw30 grade oil to sustain itself any better than a 0w20 unless it is a dual rated HDEO or a Euro spec oil.
 
The KV100 end number speaks to the fact that the oil took a beating, it sheared to just being a hair above a 0w16 grade. I have seen the exact same thing with Subaru's FA24F TGDI engines that run 0w20 for 3000-4000 miles or so.

I would not be surprised if that engine shreds M1 0W30 AFE as well, even down to a similar KV100 number after only 3000 miles or so. Keep an eye on it and don't count on an Xw30 grade oil to sustain itself any better than a 0w20 unless it is a dual rated HDEO or a Euro spec oil.
Once again no one knows with this analysis whether a viscosity deviation is due to mechanical shear or fuel dilution. Given the history of UOA on this engine I’m going to guess fuel dilution.
 
The KV100 end number speaks to the fact that the oil took a beating, it sheared to just being a hair above a 0w16 grade. I have seen the exact same thing with Subaru's FA24F TGDI engines that run 0w20 for 3000-4000 miles or so.

I would not be surprised if that engine shreds M1 0W30 AFE as well, even down to a similar KV100 number after only 3000 miles or so. Keep an eye on it and don't count on an Xw30 grade oil to sustain itself any better than a 0w20 unless it is a dual rated HDEO or a Euro spec oil.
I'm going to drop this 0w30 at around 3,000 miles and test. I have 5w30 and a Napa Gold sitting on the shelf waiting. Im hoping to get these aluminum number down a bit. I've always said the 0w20 doesn't belong in a DI turbo motor and I think this sample proves it. I'm new to the UOA world so maybe someone can fill me in a bit.
 
Once again no one knows with this analysis whether a viscosity deviation is due to mechanical shear or fuel dilution. Given the history of UOA on this engine I’m going to guess fuel dilution.

Whatever the cause I would submit that I have seen similar results from similar TGDI engines that use similar oil :)

I'm going to drop this 0w30 at around 3,000 miles and test. I have 5w30 and a Napa Gold sitting on the shelf waiting. Im hoping to get these aluminum number down a bit. I've always said the 0w20 doesn't belong in a DI turbo motor and I think this sample proves it. I'm new to the UOA world so maybe someone can fill me in a bit.

Perhaps consider using Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 in the future? I know that it can now be had in 5 quart jugs from Advance Auto Parts for a reasonable price and it should be able to better withstand some of the abuse inherent with the operation of that engine. Honda, thankfully, is not terribly picky about what oil gets used in their newer engines.
 
I'm in texas therefore 5w is a no brainer and easily accessible. Not sure what state you're in but 0w30 can certainly be justified. Cheers
I'm in NJ. It gets into the single digits in the winter sometimes. In the summer we can be over 100*

Thoughts on 0w30 in the winter and 5w30 all summer?
 
Looks fine to me, nothing to fret about. This engine is still being broken in. My 07 Accord 3.0L had a couple less than stellar UOAs early in its life. Still own it with 112k mi. later, runs like buttah, no oil use. Silicon in all likelihood still from sealer.
 
I find it weird that your iron is so low after only 7000 miles. The aluminum makes sense, I'd expect it to be higher than universal averages with so low miles. I think it's a good report for the miles on the vehicle. I expect all metals to drop on the next go around.
 
I'm in NJ. It gets into the single digits in the winter sometimes. In the summer we can be over 100*

Thoughts on 0w30 in the winter and 5w30 all summer?
you should be perfectly fine with 5w30 as well with those ambient temps. I'm sure pour point for most of 5w30 is well below 0F.
 
I find it weird that your iron is so low after only 7000 miles. The aluminum makes sense, I'd expect it to be higher than universal averages with so low miles. I think it's a good report for the miles on the vehicle. I expect all metals to drop on the next go around.
I dumped the factory fill at 1k miles followed by a 4k. So this this is the 3rd OCI. I'm not sure otherwise
 
It looks like 0W20 isn’t the best choice for your Honda. Like others have said, a 0W30 or 5W30 would be a better choice.

It is not that it is a bad choice but rather that if you choose to use it that you should limit your oil change intervals to 3000 miles or so. I recommend doing the same on similar TGDI engines from Subaru because frankly unless you are driving under absolutely optimum conditions you would qualify for the severe service interval of 3000 miles with such an engine. In fact I have found, by way of dozens of UOA reports, that standard API approved Xw30 grade oils tend to have a reduction in KV100 that is twice as fast as a comparable 0w20 oil thus the end result temds to be similar.

I tend to favor dual rated HDEOs and PCMO products that carry high level European approvals as they have a track record of performing better in such engine applications. Shell Rotella T6 Multi Vehicle 5w30 comes to mind.
 
Im hoping to get these aluminum number down a bit. I've always said the 0w20 doesn't belong in a DI turbo motor and I think this sample proves it. I'm new to the UOA world so maybe someone can fill me in a bit.

The engine is still breaking-in and/or is still flushing out break-in particles, so absolutely nothing can be determined about the choice of oil viscosity at this point. More miles and oil changes are needed. Once the engine wear stabilizes, you can TRY to experiment between grades to see if anything changes but unless it will be suffering from serious fuel dilution, which will thin down a 0w20 WELL into the 0w8 territory, I’m willing to bet the engine won’t care much if given 0w20 or a thicker 5w30 with amazing Euro Specs.

Just my opinion on the matter
 
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