2020 Veloster N oil

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Originally Posted by VelosterN
Well it's also rated as SN+ just like the M1. But I see the M1 has the ACEA C2/3 cert. what is the advantage of that rating? sorry if this is a dumb question just curious, as the manual doesn't seem to care if you use an ACEA C2 or an SN+ rated oil.

The manual is a little vague. The Mobil1 ESP 5w30 is not SN+, its only SN. The "+" is there to indicate it passed a turbocharger test for LSPI, and Hyundai is slightly worried about that surfacing. The fact that they say an ACEA C2 oil is good means they are not requiring you to guard against LSPI though.
One thing is for sure, your choice of Castrol Edge will satisfy warranty requirements and Castrol knows what they are doing.

I would look for as many turbo tests as I can. dexos1, HTO-06, I think ACEA C2 or A5/B5 includes one, and of course the LSPI tests are in SN+ and dexos1 as already mentioned.

Mobil1 ESP 5w30 (C3 qualification) does include a lot of very tough German turbo specs & other wear, oxidation, sludge, etc. tests that are very high as well.
Its HTHS is good for racing & hard driving, practically, with an HTHS 3.5 in that Veloster engine that needs at least HTHS 2.9 according to Hyundai.

My conclusion: Use Pennzoil Euro L 5w30 (C3 qualification), bargain priced at walmart, (similar to Mobil1 ESP 5w30 C3), if you plan to autocross or race this car, really thrash it, not just normal street driving bursts. I'm assuming LSPI won't be a problem here with these lower saps oils.
If not driven like a maniac, the Castrol Edge you bought, or any dexos1 SN+ 5w30 name brand synthetic oil will deliver about the same internal wear results & turbo longevity.
 
So I'll continue to use the Castrol Edge on the street and if I track the car I'll fill it with something better like Pennzoil Euro L 5w30. That sound about right?
 
Originally Posted by VelosterN
So I'll continue to use the Castrol Edge on the street and if I track the car I'll fill it with something better like Pennzoil Euro L 5w30. That sound about right?
Yes because the extra HTHS hot viscosity property of Pennz Euro L or Mobil1 ESP means it protects better when the engine is getting way too hot, as in racing etc.
The Mobil1 ESP 5w30 is not the same oil as regular Mobil1 5w30 in silver bottles at walmart, by the way, just saying that to make sure there is no confusion.
Mobil1 makes a variety of "5w30" oils, regular silver botttle, Extended Performance, Annual Protection, and the ESP C3 stuff mentioned. ... I do like Annual Protection since it is Mobiil's latest thinking in dexos1 style oils.
 
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I'd skip GF5 oils and go straight to C2/C3 oils since your manual allows it, even for a daily driver car.

Higher HTHS will help on high speed situations like on a highway as well, you do not need to be tracking for it to do a difference.The only advantage GF5 oils has is fuel economy.

Mobil ESP 5w-30 or Pennzoil Euro L/LX 0/5W-30 would be my recommendation.
 
Its true a Veloster N wouldn't have to use Castrol Edge, and if you wanted a 100% PAO base oil with tungsten & moly, qualified racing oil with street specs out the wazoo, this oil has come up in several threads as about the only one that will deliver on all that (note the SN & ACEA C3 qualifications for the Hyundai Warranty Enforcers): blauparts.com

ravenolrep.jpg
 
Nothing wrong with the EDGE 5w30 SN Plus you have chosen.

SN+ D1G2 GF-5 oils will provide you adequate engine protection, phenomenal Turbo protection, and Warranty protection.

The most important factor in a healthy Hyundai/ Kia T-GDI is that you change the oil often due to fuel dilution. I would go by the severe interval. I'm going 3k OCIs in our 1.6T Tucson as my wife likes to get to her job early and leave the car run.

Member Wemay here is probably the most knowledgeable here about Hyundai Turbo cars and their maintenance. I'm sure he will chime in at some point. He has a 2.0T I believe ran on all 5w30 synthetics with about 200k miles on it and going strong.

If you want to go thicker you can run a euro 5w30/40wt but I would be cautious using oils with a high calcium content until the ACEA addresses LSPI, which they are working on.

IMO stay with a D1G2 5w30 SN+ oil like you are using and keep the intervals at 3-5k miles and it will last a long long time.

Welcome to the forum!
 
Originally Posted by jbutch
I'd skip GF5 oils and go straight to C2/C3 oils since your manual allows it, even for a daily driver car.

Higher HTHS will help on high speed situations like on a highway as well, you do not need to be tracking for it to do a difference.The only advantage GF5 oils has is fuel economy.

Mobil ESP 5w-30 or Pennzoil Euro L/LX 0/5W-30 would be my recommendation.



Agree totally. Basically anything with 229.51, 504 or LL04 approvals would be best choice for this application, IMO.

Although I also agree a "standard" SN+ 5w30 would be fine for street driving, but I would prefer the former specs if it was my car.
 
Ok, screw it I bought some of the Ravenol REP. i'd rather go overkill on the oil than under, plus most of my commutes are short stints on surface streets where the oil barely gets up to full temp by the time I get to my destination, so I'll take all the help I can get.
 
Originally Posted by VelosterN
Ok, screw it I bought some of the Ravenol REP. i'd rather go overkill on the oil than under, plus most of my commutes are short stints on surface streets where the oil barely gets up to full temp by the time I get to my destination, so I'll take all the help I can get.



Ravenol looks like a really good oil. Too bad I can't find it in Canada at a reasonable price.

Also, I've never seen a UOA of that oil, I'd be interested to see one.
 
I'll try to get UOA, I have a kit leftover somewhere, but it'll be a while I dont drive that many miles weekly.
 
For maximum protection and performance, I would only consider
M1 ESP 5W30
or
Ravenol REP 5W30.

For value, it would be Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W30 in the 5Qt jug from Walmart.
With very frequent OCI's clearly called for,
this would be the winner.
 
Originally Posted by paoester
Congrats to poster VelosterN for being fully prescient about this Fun Machine! Crystal Ball of the Year to the OP, and Car of the Friggin' Year for the Vel N, when the C8 Corvette was in the hunt with it. Wow.


[Linked Image]
 
Originally Posted by paoester
OilReport99, that's a Hyundai Accent, their cheapest car.


Looks like a dork wearing a hat to me.
 
Nice car,
The 1.6T 2016 I once owned loved PP 5w30 and Castrol Edge 5w40. Not a big fan of the new body styles recessed line rear fenders. It lacks hips and "junk in the trunk" to me. The infotainment system seems to have improved, but I'm not a fan of screens that arent flush or in the dash, it drives me nuts.
 
I just realized that the wording in the manual seems to actually say it wants SN+ "API latest(ILSAC latest) or ACEA C2" or am I wrong and overthinking this?
 
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Technically, since Ravenol REP only has 1500 ppm calcium, I don't think it will cause LSPI, which is the sole meaning of the "plus" in SN+.
OK, the Hyundai Warranty Police might have to ponder it all, in the very unlikely event they would ever be involved. This REP is SN, and its C3. I don't think they are going to care, is the bottom line.
 
Plus the Euro version of this car I30n has the exact same drivetrain and its manual says to use "ACEA C2 or higher".
 
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